Pitman

I don't think you will get anywhere close to 350whp with the currently available Sprintex on Optimax

I am actually staying down in Lydney this weekend, so anywhere in this area is good for me - got some CF moulds to make, as well as prep some body kit parts

So, when and where?

I work / live in Lydney during the week, family home is in Droitwich. We will have to arrange for a get together sometime Dave

Possibly a short victory When people make blanket statements about voiding warranty, I find it very amusing. As I posted earlier, a manufacturers warranty is there to protect you against latent defects in (part) manufacture / assembly faults. It is very clearly defined on page 4 to 9 of the Service & Warranty booklet provided with your car. I have spent 28 years working for OEMs (including 24 years for Toyota), and have had direct responsibility for warranty management within this period, so I am not making assumptions, as others obviously are. (We all know that the word assume is an acronym for making an ass (of) u (and) me.) My concern with your proposal is purely based on the safety / liability basis. Adrian's car is an all out race car, so what he has done to it bears no relevance to everyday street use.

To understand the functionality of the stock bumper beam, you have to look at in relation to the front side members of the car. The plastic cover is very much that - a cover. Obviously it, together with the moulted foam piece between it and the bumper bar itself will absorb low speed impact, being semi flexible. Pedestrian safety is a function of the profile and 'no sharp edges' of the vehicle front (although I believe NCAP also now specifies minimum height requirements of the front of the vehicle?). Again, the structure of all modern cars is designed to crumple in a controlled way on impact - that is the reason for the indentations etc, these provide fold points. A different front beam, either shape or relative height, will have an effect on the controlled crumple (read energy absorption) properties of the vehicle in the event of a frontal impact.

Is your car going to be keep as a road car, or purely out and out track car? The design of the modern car structure is very complicated (I know, I used to be a body development engineer for Toyota) - removing the standard front (or rear) bumper beam will have an adverse effect to the structural, and impact crumple performance of the car. I do not believe any insurance company will cover it, unless you can prove that the impact performance has not been affected. As far as warranty is concerned - read the wording of the warranty cover. It covers you against latent defects, or premature failure. Not sure what aspect of the warranty cover would be affected by removing the bumper bar (apart from if you had to make a claim for structural failure of the car).

Really, really nice car, Richard - just imagine how good it would look (and go) in black, with an AVO turbo under the hood

In my humble opinion, having both seen, and been taken for some nice spirited rides in the LFA, I really do not see any point in the Veyron

What - are the TEINs no longer good enough for you?

Not wanting to be negative, but personally, with possibly the exception of the TRD back box, I think you will really battle to sell those parts, especially at the price you are asking. For example, Fensport have had the flywheel that was removed when they built the race car (having done only 800 miles) advertised for £78 (£65 + vat), whereas you are asking for £180 for a flywheel that has done 17000 miles. http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_108/Category_15/4290 The reality is, I have found that there is absolutely no relationship between the new P&A cost of the parts, and second hand (especially with the mileage you have done). I have given the parts I have removed from my '86 when upgrading to those who want them. If you really want to sell them, I suggest you list them on eBay - that way, you will find their true market value. Dave

Ah, thank you for clearing that up . Off to find a dictionary to see what superiorcin means

Why would he want to fit a S/C when he can fit a T/C? Very nice car, Rich

Bit of mixed metaphors there, Jay Day and night, or Light and dark Please don't threaten me, now

Before this totally blows up and gets locked, my final input. Firstly, James, you may well be a corporal in the army (as per your picture in your avatar), but sorry if this does not impress everybody - you have no idea what 99% of the members of the forum's backgrounds are. The rank of corporal is not exactly very high up the scale. So, the implied threat you mad to Steve is just plain childish. As far as your theories about the effect of you meth kit are concerned, I cannot be ar$ed to type a full explanation for you here as to the basic theories of how the internal combustion engine works. What I will say is, there are two sources of heat build up in an engine - the combustion process, and friction. The temperature of the combustion process has nothing to do with the inlet temperature, but purely the air fuel ratio, specific chemistry of the fuel, and the efficiency of the burn cycle (including relationship to the ignition timing, compression ratio, etc.) I am not sure what type of gasket the Sprintex inlet manifold has- read heat insulator, but I am pretty sure you will find that there is heat transfer from the engine to the manifold (higher temp to lower temp - basis thermodynamics 101). I could go on, but I am bored, and need to go to work. If / when we meet up face to face, I will explain it all to you if you want (I have absolutely no fear of your corporal stripes, or your threat above to Steve "You sure? Really! I'm a professional but don't push it.") Dave

Except that the Laminova core in the Supercharger is there to cool the inlet charge, and has nothing at all to do with the engine oil.

Lauren, I think that is the question Mas was trying to understand above as well. To be honest, I also find it a bit strange that cooler IATs somehow manage to change the basic laws of thermodynamics. I guess they must have changed since I studied thermodynamics as part of my Engineering degree It is this type of Bro - Science nonsense that has made me loose all interest in this forum, I am afraid.

http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/1772-hey-united-kingdom/

That is such an easy chip to repair Just make sure you remove the rust (you could either sand it very carefully, or better still, if you have a Dremel, just use a small pointed tool to grind it out. Then get a touch up kit (which should include undercoat), fill up the chip with repeated applications of undercoat until it is level, apply the base coat, and then clear coat on top once the base has dried. Just use a toothpick to apply the primer, and a very fine brush for the base and clear coat. If you do a Google search, there are a number of places that supply touch up paint. Chip-Ex is one good source - I also seem to remember reading on the forum somewhere that Richard (Riceburner) at RRG can supply touch up paint, or you can get it from Toyota here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-High-Quality-White-Pearl-Met-070-Touch-Up-Paint-PZ448W070009-/321289736291?pt=UK_Car_Accessories_Car_Care_Cleaning&hash=item4ace5c5063 Dave

Rich, Surely with your desire to be at the cutting edge of GT86 'ownership', patience is a virtue? On the other hand, when will you be able to get the Aero, and how long will you have to keep the TRD? Edit to add: If you do decide to wait for the Aero and get serious GT86 withdrawal symptoms, I am sure a plan can be made for you to borrow mine for a week or so, as long as you can arrange for a courtesy car for me.

Is that not the same rear wing you had on your black TRD, Rich? If so, why all the sudden hate? It has been extensively commented on months ago

Lauren, You have to remove the panel where the starter button and USB parts are fitted (it pulls out). Once out, then remove the plug from the back of the existing starter button. There are two clips that have to be pushed in to pull the starter switch out from the front. Unfortunately, you have to remove the panel to access these clips (and the clips on the harness plug). Once the old switch is out, fitting the TRD one is just the reverse. I found I got an immediate increase of 7.7592 bhp (validated via the butt dyno) when I fitted my TRD push start Dave

A very happy Birthday to TankGirl, Quball and AOSHI I hope the three of you have a really great day, and year ahead. Dave

The back bumper is all one piece, despite what it looks like.