Deacon

Just a shame you've come across as such an arse then 🤷‍♂️

They run them because they need them maybe? No one is arguing that BBK's are bad. The point is that just sticking on a BBK not specifically designed for the car will make the braking worse than the oem system. The other point is that 99% of people with an 86 don't NEED a BBK. They may chose to have one for aesthetics (perfectly valid reason) but they don't NEED one. The shite you keep posting about those who can't drive using stock calipers is just that - shite. Are you suggesting the professional drivers who drove Rogue's 86's in the 24 hour races can't drive because all they had was a pad and fluid upgrade? If you want to run a BBK with your lowering springs and Toyo T1r's crack on but don't spout such utter drival on the forum.

The only time you've been on track at the same time as me was my first ever trackday in my own 86 😂 and we didn't have the same pads. If nothing else you do make me laugh 😂

Look forward to seeing the evidence you have to back this up 👍

It's a shame you hadn't tried something better than a hybrid, road biased pad then to be able to give an accurate comparison. Certainly road pads and stock calipers overheat quite quickly when used on track.

You never ran any properly capable pads on the stock calipers though did you? Thought Project Mu Hc800+'s were the best you'd run?

This is where people can compromise braking performance by just bolting on a set of bigger brakes from another car though. A good, well done BBK shouldn't have these issues but unless paired with decent tyres will be a little pointless other than for looks and bragging over your extensive and expensive mods.

Or use decent pads and fluid

You should be able to see the seal around the screen.

This is worth a read for more info on bias:- https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/general/brake-bias-and-performance In 'normal' use (probably 95%+ of the braking people regularly do) you won't really notice any difference in braking. In 'extreme' use (a proper emergency stop, hard use on track, etc) if the bias has been shifted forwards you will see an increase in stopping distance. The big thing many people seem to forget is the effect of tyres as they're what really do the braking. If you're running a tyre with poor grip (something like a Toyo T1R for instance) your braking is going to be more limited by the tyres than anything else in your brake system. A grippy tyre (like a Yoko A052 say) will be able to handle much more braking force being applied to it before locking up. A good rule of thumb I saw is that if you can trigger the ABS you're tyre limited not brake limited for stopping.

Still looking forward to seeing those videos 👍

Thought I'd add a little mini review of these pads as I've been blown away by there performance. The PFC.08 pad are marketed as an endurance pad and are the pad used in the TMG Cup cars. I've had them on my car now for about 1000 Road miles and 600 track miles. They were fitted at the same time as a new set of Stoptech Centric blank rear discs and National Auto grooved front discs. I run Ate type 200 brake fluid. Cold bite - I was concerned that these pads would be a liability from cold but that has proved unfounded and in fact I have found them to give more cold bite than the Project Mu Hc800+ front and rear pads I ran previously. Noise - the pads do occasionally squeal a little but nowhere near as bad as I had expected from the reviews I'd read on line. I would say the squeal is a little less than I got from the OEM pads and they do not squeal all the time. Wear - I haven't taken them out to measure them since fitting but from a visual inspection the pads seem to be wearing very well (as would be expected from an endurance pad I guess). I'd been warned that they eat discs but so far the disc wear seems reasonable - there is no liping on the discs so far. The front discs do have some small heat expansion crazing but again, nothing overly unexpected for hard track use (picture below). Stopping power - this is one of the areas these have really blown me away in. The stopping power is simply amazing. On my first trackday with them fitted I found I was braking far too early using the points I'd had to use with the previous HC800+ pads. The pads can easily exceed the tyre grip provided by the AD08RS's I currently run (again, thinking of their use on the 86 Cup cars running slicks, this makes sense). Fade - I haven't experienced any fade with these pads on the four trackdays I've done so far, two of which were in 30+ degree temperatures at Bedord which has some quite high speed stops (two in quite quick succession after each other). I've been running maximum 30 minute sessions so whether fade would become more evident on longer sessions I couldn't say (for me, 30 minutes and I'm done!) Overall, I've been so blown away by how well these perform that my plans for a BBK have now gone right to the bottom of the list. Recommended as an option for anyone who tracks and doesn't want the extra initial expense of a BBK or the potential hassle with altering brake bias by just going with a kit that fits rather than one matched to the car.

This is a good read - https://www.pointmeby.com/2016/09/24/which-big-brake-kit-bbk-should-you-get-for-the-brz-frs-gt86-86/ The issue with the Sti brakes is how much they shift the bias forwards.

Thank you! Sorted now

To be honest I would never do this for a couple of reasons; 1. Being aggressive on a trackday is a bit of a dick thing to do imho - they're for fun, they're not races. 2. I have no idea of that drivers skill and getting 'much closer' could increase the chances of an accident which is not what I want from my trackday 🤷‍♂️

Yeah it was rather annoying as he wouldn't let me by when I was certainly quicker until we got to the straights then he shot off. The Caterfield on the other video was similar - I kept catching him then he'd just shoot off on the straights again.

I did another Bedford trackday on Tuesday with @VAD17 and @will300. The weather was very hot (33° for most of the day!). I did about 170 miles on track. Car was faultless and oil temps peaked at a maximum of 121°. First video is a whole session most of which I spent chasing after a Caterfield of some description. Next is a bit of another session chasing after an Elise and Focus (apologies for the bug splattered on the camera lens!) After these four trackdays in just over a month I'm hoping to maybe sneak in Donnington at the start of November but then I'm done for this year. Time to start counting down the days for next year's trackdays!

Pfc.08 front and rear

A manifold is this year's main upgrade I think and so I've done lots of research and reading. Enough that I'm now totally confused! I currently have a cobra non res cat back. I'm happy with the sound and don't really want much louder. I also want to be able to pass mot's without lots of faff or needing a 'mate'. So my question, if I get a manifold but keep the stock over pipe and second cat is that liable to meet my needs? Will keeping the stock overpipe and second cat cost me much in the way of power or torque? All thoughts gratefully received!

Had an amazing day at Anglesey on Monday. It's the first time I've been but I'd definitely like to go back. I spent the majority of the day trying to get my head around the correct lines and even by the end there were still several corners I wasnt entirely sure about. Here's a video from my second session of the day:- Plenty of room for improvement! A couple of photos from the day too. I was the only 86 there which seems to be quite rare on most trackdays now.

Once you've taken all the oem stuff apart and put the wiring harnesses into the new one it's fairly straightforward. There are two plugs that go into the oem stereo that won't plug into anything with this one (think they are to do with the oem optional Nav). I fitted the WiFi antenna and GPS antenna and routed them behind the glove box. The WiFi antenna I fixed on the underside of the top of the glove box and the gps receiver I ran up to the dashboard and fitted it between the vents and the speaker grill against the windscreen. You do need to be super, super careful with the wiring harness that plugs the screen into the stereo base though. I've managed to tweek mine and currently it's not working properly!

Apart from the Ace, TD, Rogue and potentially the new JDL longtube manifold all of the others will help with the torque dip but not fill it to the extent that the longtube manifolds will. Here is a dyno of my previous JDL Uel manifold where you can see it helps but certainly doesn't fill the torque dip to the extent the Rogue longtube does:- Pretty sure that @KevinA has a dyno graph with a comparison between a Tomei and TD somewhere on the site too showing a similar difference between the Tomei helping but the TD turning the dip to a peak

I had a catted JDL Uel originally. It improved the torque dip but didn't fill it. The cat died due to track use too. I now have a Rogue Motorsport El and have no dip. I've put the dyno graph below. No codes as they're mapped out anyway.

If you want the torque hole filled you really have three options, Ace, Rogue Motorsport or TD. Only Rogue Motorsport's and Td's are available as UEL but all three as UEL or EL will fill the torque dip due to being longtube headers.

This is the screen removed in case you have to leave the car somewhere and don't want it on display.