Deacon

I had no problems with them for road use running them with the stock brake set up. No issues with the 11's in the BBK either which are more aggressive than the 08's

Made me look again in to getting one

Will has an intake. I ran the kit with the stock box. We just heated the box up and bent it out of the way.

That's what I have

I swapped the thermostat in mine - think it's about £11 so not a big expense

The Hel kits uses a Mocal thermostat plate and a Setrab core - there's no reason you couldn't piece together your own kit by buying those pieces off the shelf. Mocal and Setrab are pretty much the best regarded parts for thermostat plates and oil cooler rads.

I had the 08 on the OEM brakes and so thought I'd try the 11's on the BBK. Both are excellent so far but I've not had chance to use the 11 much so far due to good old Covid.

Just a heads up to maybe save you a few pounds - when I got my PFC.11's Kam racing were cheapest for both the 08 and 11 of everywhere I looked

I've said I'm happy to help as a mod on here as I already do on the FB group 👍

Probably because most of the people with moderator power aren't active on the forum anymore

It does

Having not long bought mine I can answer a few of these. You can have them with different pads (Reyland have a few alternatives but I couldn't say what as they didn't have PFC and that's what I wanted) or with no pads (what I did). @will300 has been running these longest and hasn't had any hose problems as far as I'm aware. They fitted on mine with no issues mounting as they should. I've got J hook and not noticed any difference in noise. One of the big advantages of having the genuine AP discs was that they have curved internal veins. The downside is they're quite a bit more expensive. However, Reyland now offer this with their discs (it was an extra £50) when I bought mine and so seemed like a no brainer to me. Definitely black with Ginger. Red would look odd imo

It's what @will300 said - they were a batch made specifically for Toyota. They don't exist in that offset on general sale

The lower the offset the further out of the arch the wheel goes. On the picture below you can see the difference (just) - a +48 offset will bring the wheel 2mm closer to the strut and 2mm further into the car than a +46 offset. The offset @will300 has suggested is a good offset for an 18x8" wheel to help fill the arch a little better As you can see on the picture the +35 offset will push the wheel further away from the strut and so further outwards

No regrets - I found the Flex A too soft for on track and the ARB's definitely help. I found them a definite improvement and would happily fit them again.

The Litchfield bars are Eibach. I'm sure they'll be fine. The Litchfield handling kits main problem was just using lowering springs with oem dampers

@gavin_t your Flex A's will be 6/6kg not 7/7kg. There's a lot of misinformation on here about the effects of spring rates - valving is way more important and Flex A's are valved to be quite soft. As you said, we spoke about ARB's at Bedford. I'm more than happy with the whiteline set up in terms of handling, etc. My only grumble is the quality isn't the best (as per all whiteline stuff it seems).

Have you checked the clock spring isn't damaged?

Pre BBK I had lines and used ATE Blue fluid. Post BBK it's lines and RBF660 fluid.

My vote would be for PFC.08's. I ran them on stock calipers and discs. They were fantastic from cold, I didn't get and noise from them and they were amazing on track. I'm on the PFC.11's now but will probably go back to the .08's - the .11's squeal like a pig!

Quick trip to the shops for me too

I would imagine that and the thing behind the front wheel are sensor of some sort

They've been testing a properly hardcore version of the Yaris round the 'Ring so presumably the GRMN label will be applied to that one if they choose to release it.

Fitted a switched OBD2 port extender. I ran it behind the stereo and into the glovebox. When I wanted to use an OBD2 reader mine could be a bit temperamental sometimes and I'd read using an extender could sort this. Being switched also means I can just leave the obd2 port reader in all the time without any worry of battery drain or throwing codes. Finally, it's also just much easier to access now!

It definitely does have a look of a pumped up Aygo to it. I love the idea of the car, it sounds like it drives amazingly but I have to say I'm not 100% sold on the looks.