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Everything posted by Deacon
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Good to see everyone. Shame the weather made it a bit of a brief one.
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Another Midlands member here. Welcome on board! We've got a Midlands meet Saturday morning if you fancy popping along?
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Engine bay bling. (To make oil cooler line space really).
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I've got a hks HiPower Spec L with JDL catted Uel manifold
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Yes - it was my battery on the way out. Are you still on the original 48mh one?
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Welcome on board! I'm literally just up the road from you if you're in Cannock. Pop along on Saturday if you want to have a look and a chat with a few of us 👍
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Breakfast Yorkshire puddings ftw!
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You may want to get a higher rated thermostat fitted - do you know what temp the TD cooler kit comes with? Mine had an 80°c one originally but it's too low for road use really. I've swapped to a 92°c one which works much better. Even with a higher temperature thermostat you'll also need to look into something to block the cooler during winter road use. I've used duct tape on my grill as a temporary measure but have a piece of polycarbonate sheet ready to make a cover with.
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Tapatalk is a pain in the arse sometimes. Details are below:- Location & Time: Toby Cavery Watling Street Norton Canes Cannock WS11 9ND Date: 10th February From: 8:30 with breakfast at 9.
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All the details are in the first post 👍
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Definitely agreed on the oil pressure gauge.
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I'd agree that pressure is the big problem but even with a modern, thicker oil I was easily hitting 130°c pre cooler at Bedford in the summer (not a super hot day) so I wouldn't agree that temps are not an issue.
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An oil cooler would be a definite for me along with a temp and pressure gauge. The Porsche ducts are so cheap and easy to fit that they're probably worth it even if they don't do that much. For engine mounts the Sti ones would be my choice as you don't get too much extra nvh
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I paid £22 for mine I think!
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The Porsche ones can be picked up for about £7!
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That's the one but it does always seem to be referred to as the cam plate?
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It should just drip. But best to get it sorted when you can as the manifold is below and oil dripping onto the manifold is always going to be a bit dodgy! Torqen in the traders section had an uprated cam plate they offer for a decent price so maybe worth getting one of those fitted which should solve the problem permanently.
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Apart from taking it off about the only thing you could do is have a large resonator or silencer fitted into the system.
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Aero Bumper Damage, Any Options for Fix?
Deacon replied to infernouk's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
Should be fine to repair - PU is much more resilient than fiberglass. A spot repair place or body shop should be able to sort it. I had something very similar on my last car - think it cost about £220 to get fixed at a main dealer bodyshop 👍 -
Aero Bumper Damage, Any Options for Fix?
Deacon replied to infernouk's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
The bumpers aren't fiberglass they're made out of PU if I remember correctly (may be wrong on the PU but 100% on the not fiberglass!) -
Ross the age part wasn't the relevant bit!
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I'm presuming, now you've moved to the BMW side, you'll want no indication of your age...
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1. @will300 2. @Deacon 3. @Keethos 4. @sam534 5. @Gary p 6. @Mya X Ferron 7. @vanko25 8. @DanJ
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The individual parts in the Hel kit are very good. The package they put together is shite! They clearly hadn't tried it properly on a car before its release and when I looked last they don't list it anymore. Shame because as I said the parts are good (mocal, setrab, etc)
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Sadly not. Here's a picture of the problem. Oil cooler pipes need the stock airbox manipulating to clear:- There's no room to mount the sandwich plate the other way due to the hard lines. You may be able to get more 'angled' pieces going into the sandwich plate (I'm not sure on this) or HKS/Greddy etc do a sandwich plate where the fixings go straight up vertically rather than horizontally which would also give the necessary clearance. I'm swapping to an induction kit which will get rid of the problem (the hks oil cap on mine also makes it slightly worse than the plastic oem cap). I had a gauge fitted giving me oil temps and pressure. The oil temp is tapped into the sump and pressure is read from the block. Before fitting the cooler I was seeing temps getting into the mid 120's within three flying laps at Bedford so having to do a cool down lap and give it a 20 min break before going back out again. Post cooler temps didn't get much above about 115 and my sessions were only curtailed by my knackeredness! As Knightyrider said the killer is the pressure drop at higher temps. I'm currently running 0w30 and even just driving home with a temp of about 83 the pressure drops to low teens at idle. If you're tracking a bit I'd definitely get an oil cooler sorted. Seeing the pressure drops (plummet) was enough to convince me!