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Everything posted by Deacon
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Camber bolts are about Β£25. Suspension is doable yourself with relatively basic tools. Forged wheels are generally lighter and stronger. However, unless you're tracking the car a lot (and as you're looking at lowering springs I'm presuming not) you won't really notice any great benefit. I'd just find some wheels you like and not worry about their construction method to be honest.
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Nothing will happen if they're not forged (and they definitely are not forged) and the Ray's are more like 4x the cost not double. Yes. You may want / need to buy some camber bolts for the front and either camber arms / bushes for the rear to correct the camber once it's been lowered.
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Some help and advice please, winter tyres/alloys
Deacon replied to Nelix's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
I'd probably stick with 17's if looks are a consideration -
Some help and advice please, winter tyres/alloys
Deacon replied to Nelix's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
I did the CAT driver training course on the Nokian WRA3's in 28Β°c heat including the high speed bowl (over 120mph), high speed lane changes, the handling circuit, breaking from 90mph, alpine handling circuit, etc. They only gave up on the gymkhana at the end when after the first run they overheated and the car became a slide monster. Based on that pretty extreme abuse Imho there would be no problem using them all year round but obviously they wouldn't be as good as a summer tyre is in the summer. -
Some help and advice please, winter tyres/alloys
Deacon replied to Nelix's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
The downside of switching tyres is that it's not the best for the tyres being pulled on and off a set of rims all the time. If you want to minimise costs I'd look for a set of oem wheels for sale or sometimes people who are moving on from an 86 sell sets of wheels with winters on. For tyres unless you have hardcore winter conditions regularly I'd avoid hardcore winter tyres and look for something more like the Nokian WRA series which in parts of Europe are sold as an all season tyre and so seem much more suited to UK winters than a lot of other brands. I've used both the WRA3 and the new WRA4's. If you can get hold of them I'd probably go for the WRA3's as they seem a bit better than the 4's to me having tried both and being the older model will probably be cheaper too. -
A chap on the other side has an audio set up for sale which may be of use? (I know nothing of audio so may not be!) http://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/gt86-sound-system-please-see-description_topic14486.html
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Welcome on board and enjoy it (I'm sure you will!) Any plans for it so far?
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Pre-Black Friday Daily Pick - Exclusive deal! RAYS Gram Lights 57CR 18x9.5J ET38 SOLD
Deacon replied to Lucas's topic in Part-Box
Duraluminum is a mix of aluminium, copper, magnesium and manganese. It's very hard and is used in aircraft construction and on the space shuttles due to its strength, lightweight and corrosion resistance. It's used a lot for making strength and corrosion resistant fasteners like nuts so is well suited to use as wheel nuts. -
Pre-Black Friday Daily Pick - Exclusive deal! RAYS Gram Lights 57CR 18x9.5J ET38 SOLD
Deacon replied to Lucas's topic in Part-Box
Why do steel ones last better? I can see why steel would last better than the normal aluminium wheel nuts but duraluminum is stronger than steel. -
Bloody hell. @rob275 this should be stickied surely! πππ
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@GraemeI as you've said you have lowering springs fitted but it still has a comfy ride I wonder if the problem you might be having is the springs are too soft for the amount they're lowered and so are basically compressing fully at the rear leaving you with no travel, effectively 'solid' springs and so a very lively rear end? π€
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As an idea the last quote I had from CG a couple of years back was Β£600. Where abouts are you based @GraemeI?
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I've used Chris for a previous car. He's very good but also very pricey. What you do get with Centre Gravity as you said is that Chris takes your car out with you before he does any work to see how it is, then discusses what you want to get from the car to inform his set up. Wheels in Motion that you used are also supposed to be very good too though but I'd imagine do either what the machine says or what you ask for rather than the whole experience you get from CG. Maybe worth having a chat with Rogue Motorsport too (speak to Matt and tell him Jeff recommended him). They race 86's and can do any necessary alignment work too.
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Considering how bad the Milteks are quality wise they probably can't be much worse! Never heard of the brand though?
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Lol. OK, fiancΓ©e π
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While I was in Japan over Christmas I picked up a little something for the car which I fitted today. TRD starter button which compliments the other red bits nicely:-
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No, I'd say you're in good hands with either option π
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My girlfriend bought me a new watch for my birthday while we were in Japan over Christmas so I grabbed a picture when I went for fuel today. It's a Seiko Prospex divers watch and a Japanese limited edition which is a nice momento of the holiday:-
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When I first had the car I won a map in the first national meet from Abbey Motorsport. More recently, when I had the manifold changed, it was mapped by Td as they're far more local for me.
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@sazabiskythe some pictures of the wheels you asked for on pm:-
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Hmm... Wondered if it may just be releasing agent but should be gone by that sort of mileage
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How many miles have you done on them?
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Agreed with Simon 100%. I used to skate a lot so have very dodgy ankles and couldn't physically bend my ankle enough to heel and toe with the stock pedals but I can with the Cusco extension. For the price it seems a no brainer to me.
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Maybe try the Perrin rear shifter bushing instead - tightens up the shift but without the noise levels of the mount insert