Deacon

The ones in the link aren't rays they're copies. Real Rays will be more like £100+. I'll get about 2 years from my Cup 2's including some sprints and track days. I got just over a year from some federal 595 RSR's I ran before. They'll definitely wear quicker but how quick depends on your miles and use, etc

@Ade has run the AD08R's through the winter so you should have no problems with them as a Summer tyre. I've run track biased tyres for the last few years through the summer with no issues 👍

Based on the other forum it was £250 and is already sold and being collected today.

No wheels won't change the gearing unless you change the tyre size. When you fit larger wheels you drop the tyre sidewall size so the rolling radius stays as close to stock as possible.

You won't change the gearing with the wheels. To do that you'd need to fit either under or over sized tyres.

Cheers that's great 👍

No problem

If you do you're welcome to a ride in mine which is probably one of the firmest around to see how it compares 👍

Are you coming to the TD meet on Sunday? Could be a good opportunity to get some rides in other peoples cars and see how they compare.

Came across this article on Tyre Reviews comparing a range of road tyres and semi slicks. The article definitely adds more support to what a lot of people on here have been saying about how good a road tyre the PS4's are. http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Article/2017-Sport-Auto-UHP-and-Track-Day-Tyre-Test.htm

The problem is probably that unless you find someone trying to repair a rear end impact on the cheap, who'd want them as everyone already has them as standard?

Contact @AJ124 on here he can trim binnacles and does it on an exchange basis (I think).

I did for a Curborough sprint once. I wasn't a fan - the sidewalls seemed way too soft however, I was running a slightly higher sidewall than was ideal so a better fitment may have been improved things.

Greenlight are good because of the cheap track cover.

I had the bridgestone reo50a's on my last car. They were good when new but wore really quickly and once about half worn the performance fell off massively. (Car was fwd with a good chunk more power and torque than the 86 though).

Bump

Bump

There was literally not even anywhere for my phone or wallet in the cabin - that's what I meant by it'd do my head in!

I thought the engine was a lot better than ours - would love to see how one with the BBR kit is. However the total lack of any storage space in the cabin would drive me nuts. If they'd both been around when I was buying my 86 I can see I may well have gone for the ND RF instead based on the drive. But the few days I spent in the various model ND's definitely made me think the storage space thing would really do my head in.

Took a few more db readings today. Cold start hits a peak of 85.4db before settling to about 77.5db before dropping to 72db and ending up in the high 60's (forgot to note down exactly what that was). I also did a 5.5k rpm measurement from a meter away to the side at a 45° angle which came out as 91.3db. For anyone looking for a subtle system or one that you can pair with a manifold and still keep a fairly low volume the Spec L looks tough to beat. I've still got the stock second cat and a small cat in the manifold but I doubt getting rid of either of these (or both) would put you above the 98db limit that seems to be on the stricter side for most tracks.

I'm away unfortunately. I'll bring it to TD though and we could have a look then?

Yeah I think mine was measured to the side too at Oulton thinking about it. I'll grab another reading about 45° and 1m away to the side later if I get chance.

I think it's the wind noise that's the real killer - where it was filmed is up on a hill and the wind was quite strong.

Maybe but that would seem like a lot of work?

Did it as per the msv site for cars with twin tailpipes - centre between the tailpipes approximately 0.5m distance