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Everything posted by Leeky
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No and yes; 301.8 at the fly
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Stock header still with stock 1st cat
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abs and traction control lights on after led instal
Leeky replied to THAT86TRD's topic in ICE/Electrical
First thing I’d do is disconnect your new LED light and see if the issue disappears. -
Around 5k. Amber Performance fitted it for me in the end as I just didn't have the time to do it myself. Made a shade over 300bhp at the flywheel. Its great actually. Still feels NA. Hasn't ruined the way the car drives at all. It now just feels like I have a much bigger engine. Very happy with it.
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Off the top of my head - Placement of the turbo. Which equates to: Cleaner/simpler install with more of an OEM look shorter length of the header pipework (Turbo dependent) faster spooling and less lag lower centre of gravity lighter system Shorter oil/water feeds/returns less hot exhaust pipe near the belts less heat soak and better air flow as the turbo isn’t wedged up between the top of the engine and the bonnet I’ve been buying on/off from Fensport for about 20 years, so if they use the AVO kit then I trust their knowledge/experience/opinion. AVO’s kit is really well designed and built. I’ve seen/heard of quality issues on a number of other kits. Lots of US tuners are also using the AVO kit and making lots of reliable power. I only chose to go SC only as I thought the limited supplies of the Cosworth package along with their huge development/testing process (plus their name and reputation) meant it would retain more future value and in 20-30 years may even go up in value.
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Imho its the best turbo kit on the market for the 86/brz. Looks OEM. Spent a long time reading up on it and if I hadn’t at the last moment gone SC instead i would have got the AVO kit for sure.
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Yep, thats how they all are. Perfectly normal.
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Im afraid I don't agree. And I mean no disrespect but I think you are confusing a dedicated track car with a race car. If I go buy a new car straight from the dealer and use it only for track days then thats a dedicated track car. You don’t have to modify it at all. Porsche 911 GT3’s have Airbags and track days are full of them.
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Oh yes you do. There are varying degrees of dedicated track car and most I see at track days still have AC and Airbags.
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Who said I didn’t have any other mods? lol That was with Cosworth stage 1.2.
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I’ve no experience of them but there are always plenty of people selling used Gt86 Air suspension, so on that basis I doubt its much good. I assume they go back to springs. Personally I wouldn’t want to lose my boot to all the gubbins for it and also the extra weight of it all. Great I suppose if you’re only interested in road use, posing, #stance and shows etc But you don’t get track cars with air ride for good reason.
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Stock header here. Made 215 NA and now over 300bhp SC’d. Its not quite the restriction its made out to be.
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If you have all the oem parts, can remove all the mods and revert the car to standard then it’s probably best. Selling a car with mods rarely gets you back the value of the mods on top of the value of the car. But at least there is a strong 2nd hand parts market for everything you can remove.
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Welcome Yes you’ll fit. The driver seat can be lowered and when its raked back a little you should be plenty comfortable. Try to go as new as you can afford as there were loads of changes throughout the cars life. Prefacelift cars ran from 2012 to 2016. Valve spring warranty recalls seem to affect cars up to early 2014. Prefacelift 86 suspension is setup for more oversteer compared to the BRZ. When they facelifted the car in 2017 the suspension changed to match the BRZ’s more understeering bias setup. In the rest of the world the facelift manuals got a tiny power bump (<5bhp) but UK cars didn’t get this. Some colours were available during different years. So depending on which colour you want it may force you to a particular age. Core colours of white/black etc have always been available. Yellow (Giallo) for example was only available between late 2014/early 2015. Same goes for the TRD/Aero editions; they were not available during the entire life of the car (however they didn’t have any more power that the standard model anyway).
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If you go with the Cusco braces I would be up for buying the TRD braces off you. (Not that I have any knowledge of one being better than the other. But my car has lots of TRD parts already and I was planning on buying these to add to the collection lol)
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Genuine Toyota? I personally found the same and suspect they are quite soft. So when they needed replacement I switched to Borg & Beck discs and they were a lot tougher. Did about 8k of hard track days on them before removing them to fit a bbk and they had no signs of lip on them at all.
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Id advise against engine swaps. The whole reason the car is NA and a flat 4 is for a low centre of gravity. Any other engine is going to mess up the weight distribution and subsequently the handling. The FA20 is already a great motor. Makes more sense to Supercharge or Turbocharge it rather than swap it out. I’ve done 8 engine swaps and I basically regret all of them as the reality never quite lives up to the dream. There is a good reason manufacturers choose the engines they do in their cars. They have lots of engineers, designers, accountants and sales people choosing what works best.
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If you are looking to spend £30k+ and can wait (as the chip shortage will almost certainly delay deliveries) then it makes sense to to get the GR86. Newer and technically further advanced over the GT86. However for around £15k-20k you could buy a used turbocharged/supercharged GT86 which will run rings around the GR86 plus you’ll have £10k-15k left in your pocket.
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We’re talking about engines here, not drivetrain. We all know the limits of the standard manual and auto boxes.
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If you upgrade the rods you don’t automatically break the next weakest thing. Doesn't work like that. All comes down to what power you are asking of the engine. 280-300 is generally regarded as the reliable stock rod limit. Fensport say their bottom end rebuild is good for “Up to 450bhp” so as long as you aren’t looking for more than 350-400bhp from your engine it should be pretty reliable. As they explain on their site, there is good reason to upgrade the rods but leave the pistons stock.
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Hey peeps, Looking to experiment here a little with track day tyres. Does anyone on here use a non-xl (non reinforced/soft sidewall) tyre for track days? If so, what are you using, what made you choose that particular brand/model and how do you get on with them on track? Do you ever find that they roll over onto the walls if you go in to tight corners too hard? Just pondering the move from XL to a soft sidewall tyre to make the car feel less heavy/crashy and more like the softer way the stock Primacies feel (without the abysmal levels of traction).
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245 is gonna give you a bigger contact patch than 235’s for sure but the wider you go the heavier the steering will be, the more it’ll tramline and the thirstier it’ll become. I haven’t tried 245’s myself so I can’t comment on how that size makes the car feel, but having had 235’s for a while now I’m very happy with this size.
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I guess it all depends on which tyre you are going for. I personally run Goodyear Eagle F1 Aym5’s. And I chose the size based on clearance/width/comfort rather than price. But I remember I paid only £360 for my set of 4x tyres from blackcircles. Then £40 cash to get them fitted by my local place.
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Nope they’ve been fine even on track days. Zero rubbing on any part of the tyre even under full lock. I didn't want to go any lower than a 40 profile as factory ride is already quite stiff. The ride with these is only noticeably a little harder over bumps but still quite acceptable as the sidewall is only slightly smaller than stock. Only drawback is that ride height has increased almost 1cm (but thats fine by me). On the plus side the speedo is now more accurate as the speedos over read on the stock tyre size.
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I have 18x8.5J ET42’s and I run 235/40R18’s.