Leeky

This is exactly what I am planning to have done if I ever bend a rod. £3.8k for a preemptive rebuild seems very reasonable.

Ah yes. Im in Reading and used to commute to Farnborough, so would go over the A30 at Hartley Wintney every day. The surface is very changeable and yeah pretty busy road even at night.

Short answer is no. But I see the logic in what you are saying/thinking. Ratio wise you could achieve this by just changing the diff ratio which would either raise/lower all gears as a set at once. No need to change the actual gears in the box itself. But in the real world it wont really offer any extra rod protection. I think as long as you are not doing 1/4 mile drag racing or traffic light/0-60 launches then I don’t think you’ll be winding up the drivetrain enough to damage the engine because of low down torque. The way I see it, as long as you already have some momentum when going for the throttle you wont have that situation where you have a static drivetrain reluctantly taking the low down torque/rotational mass of the engine.

Its one of those things that “you wont know until you try” unfortunately. Unless the road is quiet enough that you are able to stop at the lowest point then get out and measure? If at stock ride height you are 1/2 an inch from scraping then you know you cant do a 1 inch drop in ride height without contact occurring.

Hey peeps, I know a lot of people on here have the Koni Yellow’s and Bilstein B6’s on OEM springs. Any feedback on how you’ve found they compare to the OEM shocks? I’m about to renew my shocks and top mounts but I’m keeping my stock springs. So weighing up whether to get new OEM’s or some Koni/Bilsteins.

It doesn’t matter. Im literally just asking for the feedback/opinions from people who have first hand experience of these specific shocks on stock springs.

Just my 2c. Personally I like to keep my engine, gearbox oil, diff oil & radiator all under 100c on track. Thats what I was aiming for when doing all my upgrades.

Totally agree with Church. In my opinion they are only there to make sure the wheels are lined up when fitting. If they were load bearing or important they wouldn’t make them out of soft plastics. I know some people/sites say spigot rings do something load related but I just cant see how a plastic ring wont flex if there was movement in the studs. The way I look at it, get spigot that fit if you can find them but use metal ones not plastic ones. And if you can’t find spigots that fit then don’t bother with them. Looking at your pictures they look like plastic spigots and they only appear to stand 1-2mm proud; do you think if you put them on as they are anyway they wouldn't compress a bit or move inward under the torquing of the wheel nuts?

Hey peeps, I picked up this MCA Traction Mod kit from Fensport. Thought I'd give it a try as the US/Australia guys rave about them. Just curious if anyone on here has ever tried them? https://mcasuspension.com/shop/product/548/Traction-Mod-for-Toyota-86-and-BRZ-Black I know there are angled/adjustable rear arms out there that can effectively do the same thing, but if you are running the stock rear arms this is a cheaper alternative to achieve the same result and it doesn't affect your geometry. I like the idea that I can fit these and then I don't need to have my suspension setup adjusted. Anyway I'll be fitting these in the next few weeks and will report back for anyone interested.

So I just took the car out for a drive. The first thing I notice straight away is a feeling of stiffness in the rear subframe which wasn’t there before. I know its not stiffer, but the way the back end moves around now is akin to how it feels when you stiffen up the rear. I need to drive it in anger on track to see the full benefits but so far really impressed.

Went to fit it today. Its quite incredible the stock arm angle when the wheels are hanging. You can see from the pictures the difference these mounts make. Once the weight of the car is back on the wheels the arm will be pretty much horizontal now. Three things that aren’t mentioned in the instructions - 1) That its much easier to do this with the wheels off. I’d have saved a lot of time by starting with removing the wheels. 2) The torque settings (140nm for the large bolt going into the floor. 70nm for the two small bolts next to it and 110nm for the bolts either end of the trailing arm) 3) The bolts either end of the trailing arm cannot be reused as they stretch. I found this out the hard way. So the car is still on axel stands waiting for 4x new bolts to turn up. Part No - SU003-02819 (around £11 each!) Hopefully next weekend i’ll be able to tell you how the car drives after fitting these.

I think its too soon to tell. Until we get to try the new car ourselves it’s impossible to make an informed decision. As much as I prefer the Gt86 inside and out.. the reviews generally all say the Gr86 is a much better car in every way.

Dust shields? Very easy to knock one and bend it inwards towards the disc. If its the edge of a shield touching the disc then that would explain no noticeable noise going forward but squealing going backwards. If you jack up the car and turn the wheels either direction by hand you should be able to make the noise happen again.

I really am fine with the pre-facelift OE alignment. I’ve only ever noticed understeer when trying to apply too much power exiting corners before i’ve managed to straightening up the front wheels enough. But thats a bit of a given with any RWD car. I’ve also never noticed any accelerated/uneven wear on my tyres and im on my 3rd or 4th set. I was on AD08R’s for a while but have now switched to Eagle F1 Asym5’s. Yes I noticed that once you up the power the OE brakes start to reach their limit even with uprated pads. I’ve got a BBK front and back now with 5.1 and braided hoses since going Supercharger.

No I’m running standard suspension. I personally think its perfect out of the factory so I’ve no plans to ever lower it. I think you’d probably have to lower it a lot to get the arm into the same position? If you did I expect it would probably then be too low to realistically use it on track without grounding out or rubbing.

Actually its the only thing I use the car for lol Yep deffo, will share my experience with these once fitted

I wouldn’t mind the engine, but I'm not fussed about the rest of the car. I’d consider an FA24 swap if I ever needed a new engine one day

Sorry Mani. Already bought it off Stu.

I think I bought this brand new 1 year ago but not using it anymore. Used once and its still like brand new. Will post to any UK address for £20 all in.

Sold. Please close the thread.

Cheers, will bump it up to £200!

I think £300 is a bit too much. I’ve currently got 4x callipers with hoses, discs and pads for sale on FB Marketplace for £100 but they have only 8k miles and Cosworth Pads. Or perhaps I’m advertising mine too cheap?…

I’ll take dropped you a PM

Lots of forums/tuners say different things about the FA20 rods. But I know lots of guys in the US are running 10psi+ on stock rods and aren’t having rods bending. And people are running 330bhp on the stock fuel pump so I don’t think it can be maxed out at 300bhp. Just my opinion but I suspect most bending rods are caused by poor fuel/low octane/bad mapping/misfiring/knock rather than boost torque/power levels. Going back to the Cosworth charger specifically I honestly don’t think it matters which pulley you use. Correct me if i’m wrong but the larger pulley is 0.5bar (7.25psi) and the smaller pulley is 0.6bar which is 8.7psi. So less than 1.5 extra psi. I think even with the smaller pulley and 8.7 psi boost we’re still well on the side of caution. I think as long as the engine is well maintained, in good health and running 99ron it should be fine as long as temperatures are constantly monitored and you dont go dumping the clutch doing 1/4 mile drag racing as that really is asking for a rod to bend.

Sorry I dont know Mark. It was done on Ambers Hub Dyno (which I believe are DYNOmite’s) and the results I have on paper graph are based on flywheel power calculations only. They are going to be sending me over the dyno video so I’ll hopefully be able to see the whp from this.