Leeky

Actually the Auto box is much stronger than the manual and can handle more power. Only issue with the auto is it gets quite hot. Yes I now have a Stark Performance cooler fitted with fresh fluids. I just took a vernier to my pulley and confirmed it’s definitely the smaller 63.5mm one. I just need to decide whether to try and find someone with the larger 70mm pulley to swap with or be prepared for the possibility of a bent rod followed by a rebuild.

3” Cosworth Midpipe/sports cat and Cosworth Catback. I haven’t changed the pulley and im running the 6PK2330 belt which I think would slip if I had the smaller pulley. But speaking to James at Amber he says it’s possible some of the later kits came with the smaller pulley instead of the larger one. I have a 6PK2315 belt to go on so at some point i’ll measure it to know for sure

Just thought i’d share that I’ve recently had a host of cooling upgrades done and a remap of my Cosworth Stage 2.2 Supercharger setup which made close as makes no difference 302bhp. Stock engine, stock fuel pump, stock coils and still factory front cat. Only engine upgrade being some cooler grade HKS plugs. Matt @ Cosworth was quite happy that I was perfectly safe running at this level and said I have plenty of margin left to stay reliable. I’m fully prepared for the fact that one day a rod may give up the ghost and i’ll need a rebuild but I just thought I’d share that he was happy that 300 was safe and no need to map power down to 280.

As long as they have a decent offset, a large enough centrebore and are 5x100 then yeah they’ll fit. This is a very handy site - https://www.willtheyfit.com

Yeah i’ve been putting in back to back Spa/Nur laps of the GR86 vs GT86 vs Yaris GR vs GR Supra. Im impressed with the new cars power and handling.

A fine layer of tiny metallic sludge is ok. If you see anything bigger than the head of a pin then you may have an issue. Anything that starts to look like pencil lead sharpening is not good at all in my opinion. The FA20 is all Alluminium (which isnt magnetic) so anything you find on the plug must be coming from crank/camshafts, valves, bearings, chains etc

Updated… Square setup of 18x8 Black BBS MotorSport CH003 wheels with staggered tyres. Quite possibly replicas but not 100% sure. 235/40R18 ArrowSpeed N1000 tyres on the front with around 8mm tread 245/35R18 Accelera PHI-R’s at the rear with around 6mm tread. They appear to have a diamond cut rim edge with a light bit of curbing in places. They came off a GT86 (not mine) but only 2x of the wheels have spigot rings. Looking for around £300 which I think is a fair price as someone else on the FB group is selling these same wheels for £200 (without tyres) but theirs need a refurb and mine don’t. Would also consider swaps/PX for any interesting parts; TRD/Gazoo/SARD/Tom’s etc. Collection only from north Reading Berkshire RG4.

Sold. Please close the thread.

Its just a branding gimmick. There is nothing in this oil that would stop you using it on a BRZ/86/Supra/GR Yaris etc. Generally speaking, any fully synthetic 0w-20 would do. This is all thats mentioned in the owners manual.

I’d personally just use Toyota’s own 0w-20. Its about £40 for 5 litres. However…if you are feeling particularly spendy this stuff is £99 for 5 litres…

I personally am anti-coilover. I've owned a few sets on various cars and find them to be too hard even on the softest settings. Personally if I don't like the handling of my cars (and the GT86 isnt one of them, I love the stock suspension) I tend to go with decent shock/spring upgrades. Something like TRD Sports Dampers and TRD Lowered springs.

I use the standard issue 0w-20 that my Toyota main dealer put in. I do many heavy track days (track weeks when it comes to places like Nur) and I've always found that as long as the oil stays below 100 degrees then pressure remains good. Worth monitoring temps as others have said using something like the Torque App or a physical device like a ScanGauge2. If you struggle to keep temps under 100c (on these hot summer track days) then worth getting a thermostatic engine oil cooler.

Borg and Beck discs are very good and very cheap on ebay. OEM spec for a quarter of the price. £46 for a pair of 294mm Front discs (BBD4119) £42 for a pair of 290mm Rear discs (BBD5412) Their brake pads aren’t too bad from what i’ve heard. But haven’t tried the pads myself. I had great results on track running the Cosworth pads on Borg and Beck discs before going big brake upgrade.

Yep, got it at a good price and kept it as a spare when I heard they weren’t making any more. But looks like i’ll never need it. If it fits the 2.4 then someone will be chew my arm off for it one day lol

I too would be interested to know how much they weigh

Scrap metal yard would probably give you at least a tenner for it. I mean rather than taking it to the tip. Its one of those items that nobody ever needs but 30years from now will be worth a fortune lol

I may have a brand new boxed spare stage1&2 kit with programming kit if there are others that missed out on this…. But i’d want £6k to let it go as I believe its the last brand new one anywhere in existence lol

Just curious, but is this a clunk on the front or the rear? I’ve recently fitted the Cosworth/APRacing 6pot/355mm front kit and the APRacing 4pot/335mm rear kit but cant say they’ve sounded any “clunkier” than stock. I wonder if clunking is something to expect/listen out for once the new pads have bedded in more.

This sucks. Same here, signed up to get the discount and its gone before i’ve even had a single chance to use it.

Hey Guys n Gals, I’ve hunted high and low but I cant seems to find anywhere that says what the torque settings are for the diff cover plate. Going to be fitting a Greddy cover like the one below tomorrow and have all the torque settings except for the cover plate bolts themselves. Unfortunately the instructions are in Japanese but don’t appear to show any torque values anyway. Does anyone have these please? Cheers!

Cosworth Stage 2.2 here. OEM front cat and Cosworth 2nd cat. Breezes through MOT/Emissions test.

I guess it’s possible there was a time/batch when they were just rebranded. But both sets of Cosworth pads i’ve gone through were visually a different shape to the set of Yellowstuff I had. Not only this but the Yellowstuff took noticeably longer to warm up when on public roads suggesting to be a different compound. On track there wasn’t much difference but off track from cold I could tell which were which.

No I mean Cosworth. I bought a set of Yellowstuff and compared them to whats in the Cosworth box. Didnt look or feel like the same pads to me at all. No idea where that rumour started. But from what I’ve seen on the net the Cosworth pads for the R35 GTR may have been rebadged YellowStuff. Never seen any evidence to suggest the GT86 Cosworth pads have ever been Yellowstuff.

I’ve always used the Cosworth Streetmaster pads. They have plenty of bite from cold and are hard to overheat on track.

As I said, I wasn’t looking to bait. But I’ve never had a manual 86 come past me on track unless I was on a cool down lap or intentionally backing off/going easy. And yes its a fact that the auto gears are longer, but seeing as I’m always gaining on all the manual 86’s on the long straights shows it doesn’t appear to be an issue. Logic wise, I’ve always just put this down to not having to come out of drive to change gear. Or maybe its nothing to do with the car and I’m just a better driver lol