GraemeI

*sucks in breath sharply* Good grief, that woke me up! I am in Wendover, Buckinghamshire, just South East of Aylesbury. Only changes (that I know of!) are lowering springs which were already on the car with the camber bolts and then the LCA's which I got fitted when I saw how far out my rear camber was. That was done prior to the print out above - you can see in the one below how bad the camber was shot on the rear - one positive and one negative, not to mention the ridiculous toe on the rear! As far as I know you are correct - i.e. positive is toe in and negative is toe out? That suggests I have slight toe in, which is what the guys said when they did it - the idea was to give some more rear stability with a little toe in. If that isn't it, then something else must be wrong. I wonder if the rear end took a hit at some point to make the camber and toe go so far out in the first place? To answer your other questions, yes car still NA, tyre pressures even, and nothing worn, bent or broken that anyone has found so far..... We first felt it with a 30mph rapid lane change which sent the rear TC mental. Very odd, and it's a mystery!! Lovely!

Cheers Jeff, sounds about right. I always expect 'very good' to come with 'pricey' Colin was the same! Guys at Wheels in Motion knew their stuff, but as you say, didn't ask any of those sorts of questions or anything, so you get a mix of what you want with some best practice 'don't mess with the basics' thrown in May well give Rogue a call too - seen them in the 750MC Sports Specials with the Xenon a few times

Thanks Lauren, all makes perfect sense. I despise understeer too, but when the car gets loose at the rear at less than 55mph on a simple chicane and lets go like someone dropped oil on the back tyres, it's not a lot of fun, so I need to sort that out for sure. If Colin hadn't basically refused to run the handling course today, I could have written it off to me either being a chicken or inexperienced with the car, but when someone who does it for a living tells me it's bad, I try to listen I also take on board your comments on not needing to spend any money on it - that is always a good starting point! I do still want to address my compliance issues on the road (want it slightly more cushioned basically) and also the ability to stiffen it up a bit more on track, so that is what led me to think about some coil-overs (with said pillow-ball top mounts ). Already have the adjustable LCA's, but not track rods yet. My biggest concern is that I just don't know if they will be better or worse than my current setup, so reluctant to drop that much money on them to find out afterwards! My rating of the stock car suspension (12-16) was a bit chattery on medium speed corrugated roads, and a bit harsh on bumps. The newer 17 model fixed most of this, but still slightly harsh on unexpected bumps. My car (with 1kg per corner lighter wheels) and the Eibach Pro-Kit springs has no chatter and not very harsh on unexpected bumps either as they are progressive rate springs so just wind up a bit more, but with the lighter wheels it doesn't jar as much. So, my idea was possibly lighter wheels (money and availability issues!) with the Flex A's and maybe marginally softer spring rates (Lauren's spring rate ftw!) and then see if that gives me what I want. But back to just not knowing the outcome! Argh!! Who said modifying cars was a good idea!!!???

It's 0.05 and 0.03 on the rear, which sounds minimal, but compared to your -0.15, it's a large multiple out! I have been recommended to see Chris Franklin at Center Gravity as they tune the car to your driving characteristics by testing it beforehand and also checking all components etc before even trying to check the geo. Anyone else heard of, or used them?

Good grief - the -3.37 must have been fun with tyres beforehand Looks good now! I also found out today that my driving style also massively affects how the car should be setup. Apparently I trail brake quite a lot, so need to set up for default understeer (not my favourite!!), so it's neutral pushing towards slightly oversteer'y' at and near the limits (much better for track, but I won't be doing that on the road, so am torn a little )

I tried to get more camber on the front, but they ran out of adjustment on the camber bolts and then tried to balance front to rear, so they kept the rear lower as well. My original request was for 1.5-2 degrees front and 1.5-1.75 rear, but as you can see, that didn't happen. They also had some fun trying to line up the front and rear and left to right - as it wasn't completely lined up - this also contributed to not being able to adjust the camber as much. See below for this:

In theory, yes, but this is me you're talking to

I found a black GT86 badge on Amazon, but none of the others (I think it still came from China, but all arrived safe & sound) Another option is to plastidip them which from all accounts is easier than removing some of them, particularly the Toyota emblems Another option is custom replacement badge from guy in the US - he can make just about anything, but they are expensive - https://www.instagram.com/pete39sp/?hl=pl hth, Graeme

So you say.... Tragically, I actually believe you

Trying to buy membership, but it won't let me! I can browse the item, change the sticker colour and add it to the cart, which pops up at the top of the screen, but if I try Review and Checkout, it tells me I have nothing in the cart. Only tried about 7 times so far :-/ Same happens if I try add a Shirt or anything else. Please can someone check it out and let me know in case I have early onset dementia?? Thanks, Graeme

Ahh, I get it - crap likes to stick together!!!

Less of the could.......

Sounds entirely fair 😂

Hmm - switched operating systems and it worked.. I think it doesn't like Mac's.....

Tried Safari, Chrome and Firefox and all 3 do the same

Maybe a silly question considering you moved from Primacies, but are you still on the stock wheels? The symptoms you are describing are usually caused by either bad alignment or scrub radius changing (usually from changing wheel offset), but it sounds fairly noticeable, so either the alignment guys lied, or you have a different problem Find out your camber, caster and toe settings for front and rear, or everything is guesswork Oh, and definitely do some 'proper' driving

Yep - they only seem to have the CE28N in 17x8 in 'Competition Use Size' All others are 8.5" or 9", which just get heavier!

Thanks @Lucas@PartBox Was there a 17x8 for any sizes? Or do they only do 7.5's and 8.5? I am also amazed the manufacturer doesn't have weights for their own wheels - lol

Thanks Mike. I think I have spent more time looking at pictures than I care to admit!! After all these conversations (and some prices!), I will probably look at sorting out the suspension first. This will let me pay for some seat time with some experts instead which will improve my skills infinitely more than a set of wheels will! If I come across a great bargain in the interim, I may re-consider

Thanks for the offer, but I already have 7.5” and wanted to go to 8 or slightly more

Well put The forged wheels are stronger and lighter, so the results are still most important The Wedsports are indeed light enough, but they reduce weight by making the rim really thin with their process, but the face/disc is still cast, so will never be as strong as the forged wheels. Having said that, I am unlikely to be testing the limits of the strength unless I drive through an unseen pothole or something, at which point it probably won't matter anyway! In short, I realise it's mostly just a technicality, which is why I haven't written them off. They are still not cheap at £1500, but that's still £1000 less than the Rays! Now if only I could find a used set........

Which is all great news - but I don’t know if I need it yet, or if it will indeed be an upgrade! I figured I should get a baseline of handling with a damper setup that will work for road and track (I know it will be a compromise). Then the plan is to get some car and driver training to make sure I understand how the car and I perform and then I can start tweaking chassis stiffness (and everything else!)

Odd they say it's Competition Use only. Guess I need to learn to speak Japanese, then I can ask them - lol

Interesting - every site I looked at recommended minimums of 235 for the 8.5" wheel, with 215 for the 8"... Thing is - 8.5" is also heavier At my age, you would have thought I would stop being so damn fussy! I just don't like spending money twice so spend ages researching...

This is an example of the SSR's - pity about shipping costs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122782647612?_trksid=p11070.c100879.m5022&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170831091824%26meid%3D128906c4a8a14c418de60d4c2e47e9dc%26pid%3D100879%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D122785168738&ul_noapp=true