GraemeI

I had wondered about your XXR's when I looked up the weight I have noticed quite a big difference to the way the car feels with my slightly lighter (than stock) wheels, which is why I wanted to get some that were lighter still. It has almost eliminated the 'chattering' the stock car gets around corners on rippled roads. I guess that could have been a combination of the Eibach springs with the lighter wheels. As for the many other improvements, I am all ears! Not all wallet mind you Currently thinking suspension followed by some driver training to get most out of the car. I just figured lighter and slightly wider wheels should come first, but always happy to learn (and be wrong!).

LOL - Love the term 'easier' Easier to have a coronary maybe!

I did consider them, but they were fairly pricy and not forged. Not to mention I couldn't find any anywhere! They are a good weight, not quite as good looking (always an opinion only), but still open to the idea if I can find some at the right price.

LoL - mildly illegal then

Ahh, that makes more sense! Thank you! I guess you don't want to run without centre caps on the road all the time, but in competition it won't matter so much - less to fall off!!! I saw those CE28N's - pity the ET50 of sucks, and I already have 7.5's. Yeesh! What is the weight of those 17x8 ZE40's again? And their offset? And also the weight of the CE28SL 17x9's ? I am starting to be swayed

@Lucas@PartBox I meant clearance to dampers rather than the arches. At the moment, I only have Eibach Pro-Kit springs with standard dampers, so only 20-25mm drop. This will probably change to a set of adjustable coilers when time and money permit, but not decided as yet... I was also trying to avoid reducing the sidewall because of the ride on the road. It's hard enough as is I am amazed those wheels fitted tbh - impressive clearance! Do you have any pictures of what they look like? That ET and additional wheel width must mess with your scrub radius! I know Team Dynamics do the Pro Race 1.2's but I am not much of a fan - they are not that light and I don't like their design that much either. (told you I am fussy - lol )

What size tyres are you using?

Thanks Lucas. That sort of makes sense, but not when the size and offset are smaller than some of the so called 'standard' ones! They do a CE28N in 17x8 with 38 offset, but Competition Size only.... The 17x9 is a good offset, but a bit wide, and I definitely wasn't sure about clearance with that The ZE40's are quite nice, but i prefer the spokes on the CE28's. The wide ZE40's (and CE28's) look really good, but I didn't want to go that big - weight compromise mostly

Cheers Paul. The TE37's are slightly heavier than the CE28n's (also forged). Looks are important, but secondary to the weight I found a set of SSR Type-C's but they have to come from Russia/RimsJapan and I have no idea how that would work or whether it was a good idea or not. The reason I was looking at 8" instead of 8.5" was because I wasn't sure how they would be with clearance and also means my 225/45 tyres will be super stretched which won't be great for road use...

Glad you got sorted! What did you end up with?

In case you aren't already sorted, I have a Milltek front pipe which I have recently taken out - still in good condition

Damn Looks good as pair

I would take the boot lid if it doesn't have the mounting holes - not so much the spoiler

I am sure this is an oldie but goodie, but thought I would ask anyway Have blue bootlid including stock spoiler to swap or sell if I can find one with no spoiler. First things first though! Looking for the below

Clearly I need to visit better places!! The guys I saw said they don't like filling as they said the holes can start showing after a while when the paint and filler settles.

In theory, but the body shops I have spoken to say it will cost less to get a replacement bootlid as the holes all have to be welded and filled and labour cost will be higher than getting one clean Cost from Toyota is £450, plus £200 for spray which is why I am asking here

Always good to know! Best I go look that up! I wasn't too bothered if painted or not - I have to get some spray done anyway, so adding the bootlid would be fine

Hmm..... *plans low speed crash into wall with appropriate height protrusions*

One more update, suggesting I was wrong all along! Amber got the camber bolt and washer from Whiteline in Scotland and put into the LCA so I could get alignment done. After driving out, the car felt very loose and I felt a vibration from the front of the car which felt like ABS but I wasn't touching the brakes! I was travelling under 20mph too! Very very weird symptoms, so back again, car on the ramp checking everything. Could not see any faults, but some Google work by James found that the VSC triggers when the car feels unstable. Fix is to turn of Traction control and drive carefully.... I tested the theory and hey bingo! Drove back to Toyota rather slowly as the car was swaying all over the place at anything over 40mph. New tyres fitted, driven very slowly home to be parked until the alignment visit on Monday morning! So, what was the moral of the story? In short, it's very possible for the smallest alignment issues to cause the car to become so unstable that it triggers all the ESC and traction and ABS systems! This makes me think the previous alignment could have made the car as slippy as it was. I have never experienced anything anywhere near this dramatic before, so it was a good lesson learned! Anyway, have new PS4's now, so should be good for grip for the foreseeable future, and got a great price match from Toyota, so happy all round! Thanks again to everyone for their input and education! Much appreciated! Now to try get the aligment people to ignore all the factory settings and make it all red on the charts instead. That should be fun!!! Have a great weekend everyone!

Hi guys, I just got my GT86 and it has Goodyear F1 AS2 tyres on it - 225/45 R17 with around 6mm tread. I am finding there is VERY little grip available. On a a very slight bend (5 degrees or so) uphill, accelerating in 3rd gear in the wet, it broke traction quite dramatically. It does the same with less than 1/2 throttle in 2nd gear, from around 2,500 rpm on any sort of corner. The front pushes across the tarmac really badly in the wet and even a fair amount in the dry. From everything I have read about the car, not even the standard tyres should do this? I have had my fair share of rear drive cars (with a lot more power) in my past and this isn't even 30% of the grip level which is the opposite of what I expected. So, my question is: Is this normal and to be expected, or should I be replacing my tyres asap!? Don't want to blow £400 or so and find I am back where I started, but with a spare set of tyres Thanks, Graeme

I am a slow learner, but it's finally come back to me why I stopped modifying cars Once you put a foot on the slippery slope, you have had it in more ways than one! Went to get some LCA's today from Amber (they had in stock and are close to me, and I needed them today!) and the first challenge was the kit was short one camber bolt and washer, so now it's back and forth and I have tyres due tomorrow at 1500 with alignment at 1600 with no fixed LCA ....... a little close, I know . Whilst under the car we notice the weld on the pipe going into the back box on the Milltek is a little iffy, but of course Milltek don't warranty second owners, so that's a new challenge. On a plus point, I at least found out how the camber got so screwy - someone put in camber adjustment Powersports bushings, but not the correct splined bolts, so there was nothing to stop it moving around over time, so at least that's a better explanation than the alternative of accidental contact! Another new thing I learnt was - the Summit LCA, as nice as it is, weighs 2.8kg per side vs the 1.5kg of stock and the Whiteline LCA. That made the 1kg saved on the wheels seem pointless for unsprung weight loss, as they add 1.3 kg, so they stayed looking pretty in their box After my drive to Blyton next week, I am sure the discoveries will continue! UEL and suspension next.... took a good look at the Flex A's with the EDFC Active Pro. Bit expensive, but most likely to fit the bill without going mental on Ohlins or similar. The Showa stuff looks good for non-adjustable, but difficult to get here, so it's not high on the list at the moment. Head unit is on the list too - the interface is driving me insane.... not to mention the sound quality.... And back to the beginning - this is exactly why I stopped doing this stuff - lol

Wow, I am amazed, but am trusting your experience :-). I will go as far as I can on fronts and then do 75% of that on rear as that seems to be the common ratio :-)

This for general road use rather than track biased? That is waaaay over stock recommendations ! Seems my current LR camber is close then - pity about everything else - lol! Dont think camber bolts in front give that much adjustment which creates a new challenge of course!

Thanks @KevinA - it's going to be a challenge to find the right mix of parts . Need to get settled with the car first I think...

That's a lot of numbers @Church ! I am more confused than I was before (easily done tbh!). I am not a fan of understeer bias on track, but it's slightly better on road, but prefer neutral if possible, so with that in mind, what is a good starting point for the figures? From what I can work out, were talking about camber as per grip preference Front to rear Camber Front - being somewhere between -1 and -2dg (currently -1.34 ave) Camber Rear - between -1.12 and -2dg Toe in Front - ?? Toe in Rear - ?? Any clues welcomed Thanks, Graeme