GravelRash

I use the ECUTek dongle and app.

Hi, pretty much as topic title. I was changing my oil last night (my first time on this car, not this car's first oil change!) and when I pulled my magnetic sump plug it had, what I would describe as 'fur' on the tip. Not big shards of metal, or slivers, just tiny particles clumped together that gave the tip a furry texture. This morning I've cut the oil filter open and beyond the hatched job I made of cutting it open deep into the oil pleats it appears to be clean. Running a magnet over it as best I can also didn't seem to pick up any substantial bits or metal, just some more particles, but I can't rule out that was me opening the oil filter up. The oil smells burnt, as though it's got hot (which it has, this oil has done 5 trackdays and around 8,000 miles) but I didn't spot any metal in the collection pan. So how much is normal for these engines? For reference, the car has both an oil-cooled turbo and an oil cooler, and done around 40,000 miles. The last oil change was around 32,000 miles and was done by a garage. Car seems to run fine and my oil pressure gauge hasn't revealed anything unusual occurring. I think it's running a 5w-30 and I've got 5w-30 going into it. OEM oil filters as well.

The length of time is something I was aware of but circumstances was such that I just wasn't able to get the car in the air. Since moving to the new house I can raise and lower the car at will. My next course of action is to complete the oil change, run the fresh oil for 1000 miles and then flush and pull the system again.

I do still have the oil, split across two containers, but they will both have been contaminated with other oil. My vaccum pump already had some oil inside (which I use for getting the bulk of the oil out), and the drain canister has since been used to examine the cut open oil filter.It has metal shards from where I cut open the oil filter. Based on the picture it's more like the green picture. Definitely not the Oh dear picture!. I've stuck a magnet into the sump and wiggled it around. It came out clean but I can't see the pickup pipe, probably my baffle in the way. Sticking the magnet into the oil filter housing, on the return feed fished a few metal shavings out. Ignore the dark part outside of the green box, that;s coating coming off my very old magnet. Inside the green box you can see what I fished out of the oilfilter sandwich plate. This came from a small puddle of oil in a recess, so possibly a natural collection point for crap.

I don't think so. Valet mode stops the car from revving so there's no hoonage. The MOT emission checks are done at idle. AFAIUI remaps use the stock ECU for idle control and only really do their thing higher up the rev ranges when fueling and ignition need to be adjusted.

Maybe you just tuned into it. I'd been driving mine for months before suddenly becoming aware of a noise whilst cruising on a motorway. Turned out to the air-con clutch.

Oh it's dirty, trust me, you wouldn't want to rub against it!!

People always show washed gleaming cars in scenic locations, so I thought I'd show the darkside. It's dirty, unwashed, up in the air for some maintenance, getting ready for some hard miles in the summer sun. Please excuse the mess behind it, I've just moved house.

I've got the Verus ducktail on my 2017 model. Covers the stock spoiler holes. I don't know if the 2016 spoiler holes are the same.

Yeah, that's my guess as well.

I had the resonator installed with the N/A kit. I then had the turbo installed, I then broke my resonator (it ground out on a speed bump in Sailsbury) Replaced with the super-res I've never had the super-res with the N/A but personally, to avoid having to replace the resonated version later, I would just get the super-res. But I'm old.

This. My partner hated the resonated version on both the N/A and the Turbo. The car was loud on the N/A kit and wasn't appreciated by heathens when on cold start. Generally couldn't listen to the radio without it almost being at full volume. I've only had the SR on the turbo, and is fairly quiet, listen to the radio on cruises, and allows you to hear the turbo do it's thing. It's also quiet enough to meet noise regs at tracks like Bedford (or I wasn't warned about it) but I know it was near the limit at Oulton Park on the N/A with the resonated. Personally, I would get the SR.

Any discussion around what triggered the original failure? I know you've mentioned a failed bearing and oil pipes being blocked, but any ideas around what caused those failures?

You could drive it and let the alternator do the charging work. I've no reason to even move mine since various lockdowns back in March but I make sure that I take it out for at least an hour once a week. Also helps me ensure that everything it working, tires get rotated and the fluids circulated. And, you know, it's fun.

I love how this car looks. Everytime you post a picture it always looks so cool.

Shell V-Power only since it was boosted and remapped on the recommendation of the tuner. Previously when stock I used V-Power and Momentum 99. I wouldn't like to state that I could detect a difference.

ECUTek app. I've tried it on an iPad mini and my iPhone. I preferred the iPad mini but locating a suitable mounting point was awkward, so I just use my phone when I'm on track or monitoring for reason, otherwise I just let the car do it's thing.

You haven't scared me away. Well, Facebook maybe As the lockdown has eased, would you fancy a socially responsible gathering. I believe in England it's 6 people in a park. It would be like a mini-meet from CruiseBoard all over again; we could even find an empty McD carpark!

I'm intrigued by this opportunity but I'm wondering about the time implications. As a fairly busy person what sort of time commitment is required? I presume it varies and there are peaks when it needs more but overall is it possible to estimate how much time a month / week it would require? I also assume that guidance would be provided as, speaking for myself, I've not done anything like this before so I'm not sure exactly what I would be volunteering to do.

My Optima yellow AGM battery is flat. Suspected it yesterday and confirmed it today. It's on the charger now. Last started fine about 2-3 weeks ago, done maybe 4 miles in 6 weeks.

You're doing more than bumping if you bend these. Regarding the colour, I bought them before I fitted all the Verus kit, I think I'd maybe go black for the contrast now instead of the red. I really wasn't sure about fitting them (apart from it became necessary to repair the car, duct-tape pretty much holding her front together), much like I wasn't sure on the vents, but TBH in person it all works visually for me personally, but I do generally appreciate function over form.

I did an advanced driving course and had a 'minor' incident that damaged the front bumper and the underpanels, which also explains the quick release buttons. I need to fix the inner one on the side shown as it's not engaging properly. Not shown is the Beatrush undertray cooling panel as well. Complete with a new screamer hole. Nothing like drilling into a pristine brand new aftermarket part to void a warranty.

Cheeky.

Don't think it would influence me too much; the quality of the work is more important, as is the relationship and trust that you've built up. Collection wouldn't work for me as it's my daily driver.

Morning, my headlight washers have come off my bumper and I can’t figure out how they reattach. can someone get me a photo of the washer mechanism behind the cover. i know there’s a clip for the outer body panel, my washers themselves are attached to that clip, it’s how the washers attach to the retracting arm on the car.