GravelRash

Hi, IIRC going to FI from remapped NA cost no more than £50 for myself at renewal time. I was shocked at how little it actually added to my insurance. 16,000 miles, 10,000 of them business, fully comp, protected NCB, driveway parked, all mods declared, about £750 a year or so.

At least some scrote's not eyeballing your car!

Maybe the garage that fitted the HKS forgot it was there. On mine the sill, with the weight of the car, has cut the groove slightly deeper so mine actually stay put on the car until I pull it off.

It's an adapter for jacking up cars via the sill using a traditional jack instead of using the scissor jack. The car sill jacking point goes into the grove and a proper jack is placed underneath the flat bottom. I've got two for my car. One in the car itself and one in the garage. If you didn't do it, maybe someone was trying to get to your wheels or (if they still do this) jack it up to steal the CAT.

I don't think the car throws an error if the first CAT is removed. In either event, with a retune, there's no error or dash light regarding the 1st CAT.

Hi and welcome to the club. There's a few of us around the Manchester area. You're also close to Tuning Developments. Speak to @Mike@TD.co.uk about the NA tune up and make the car what it should have been from the factory. It's possibly, beyond FI, the best thing you can do for the car.

Already a thread here : It was a GT86 involved. Numberplate details in the other thread.

Changing the intake hose shouldn't have altered the driving characteristics of the 86. It will make less noise in the cabin due to the new intake having removed the sound generator piping into the car (down by the pedals behind the carpet). Can you elaborate on how the car is feeling like a diesel? Juddering Noise, Smoking A seemingly endless torque pull (it won't be this on a N/A) The inability to get above 4000RPM. It's also possible they disconnected the battery. That would reset the ECU and cause the car to behave oddly whilst it relearns a few settings (trying to stall etc). That usually goes after after driving it for a bit. I'd be surprised if they did disconnect the battery for a simple hose swap. You could confirm that the new hose is tightened down, so there's no air leaks. Use carb cleaner around the various hose ends. With the engine idling, if it perks up, you've got a leak, if it makes no difference, it's sealed.

At least you were able to get insured by them. I wasn't deemed worthy of the call back. Try A-Plan in future. Cost me a whole extra £70 ontop of my old renewal when I added the FI.

Pretty sure that would be @Deacon's car. It's replacing the front Toyota emblem. Deacon might be able to say where it came from.

P2270 - O2 sensor signal stuck lean, Bank 1, sensor 2 The rear O2 sensor is having issues. Reset the CEL in the first instance and see if it comes back. Car will be ok to drive.

Been away for a few days, so I've just seen this. Can you elaborate on what Gary means by 'a lot better than many others he had seen'. Is he referring to FA20 engines that he's seen or just Toyota engines in general? If he's meaning that you're FA20 is better than other FA20, I wonder; a.) What's the reason they are seeing the inside of the FA20 on such a regular occurrence that they can make the comparison b.) What special sauce are you using to keep your engine healthy? A regular Italian tune-up, fuel type (vPower, Momentum etc), oil, any additives? Mines a daily driver and anything that I can do to keep it healthy and reliable is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Halfords got me a CR1632 battery for same day pickup within 2 hours from my local store. Ordered online, 2 hours later and ready for collection. Very easy to replace as well; take the emergency key out and use the small lip on the end to lever the key open using the slot (it's like they designed it that way!).

Turbo's will increase the incoming air charge far beyond the external ambient air-temperature and the kits will probably then be sending the loaded charge into the engine via a correctly sized and flowing intercooler. I doubt that the location of the air-filter makes any difference to the charge temperature at the point of entry into the engine itself.

It's installed. Brute force and my usual ignorance got the nut undone and then it was fairly straight-forward.

My kit arrived with 3 bolts (1 was slightly longer), 3 washers and 3 spacers of various sizes. I think it's a generic fitting kit. I used the slightly longer bolt to replace the bolt that's in door jam for the drivers seatbelt was the stock bolt had a slight taper and didn't fit snugly into the harness ringlet. For the rear mounting point I re-used the stock bolt (and a hammer and punch to bend it into shape). I also lowered the rear-seat belt reel by un-doing the lower bolt as well. This allowed me to build the bolt assembly back up and then mount it easily. Otherwise there's not much wiggle room to re-attach 2 spacers and a metal ring washer without it all falling down in to the car. I also expected it to take about 30 minutes and I spent nearly 2 hours trying not the break any trim and swearing at the rear airbag trim that somehow is always in the way!

I'm not sure we're talking about the same bolt. It's not a bolt on my seat-buckle. It's a stud with a nut on the end. I've tried to see if I have access under the seat itself to the back of the stud, but I don't see or feel any access, so I've left pondering if I'm supposed to just undo the nut, mount the harness ringlet and then do the nut back up, but as you can see from the photo there's very little spare thread. It's also ridiculously tight and there's no room for a breaker down the side of the transmission tunnel.

Quick question for the group: what is it supposed to attach to on the drivers seat itself? I presumed the seatbelt buckle, but that just appears to be a nut (and not a lot of spare thread), and almost no access to the bolt itself.

Are you now able to insure people in Stockport or is it still a 'dangerous area'?

That's clearly where I've gone wrong. I thought the gutless FA20 was to blame, but I'm standing on the brake pedal Years ago, during a discussion with an accident investigator I was asked why I kept referring to it as a throttle pedal. I responded that it's not an On / Off switch. It's a way of controlling air / fuel flow so I can control how much acceleration I want at any time.

What is everyone doing to get these cars to step out? I've hooned mine all over the peak district in various weathers and I could have an industrial accident and still have enough fingers left to count the number of times my backend's stepped out on me. Clearly my feathery touch is too light.

I've been following this for a while and I've already got the deposit down, but, I think Toyota have missed the target market. Some thoughts after the launch event: The Mk4 was good enough to keep Akio racing whilst his fellows all showcased newer cars. He even admits that eventually he wanted a new car to for the appearance. Wanted, not needed. My take was the MK4 was holding it's own and with the 2JZ capability it could be made to match the other cars. Emissions aside. Toyota don't have a halo car. People aren't putting Toyota posters up on the wall anymore. The 86 isn't a halo model, it's a drivers car and on paper it's an overpriced, tin top mx5. You need to drive it to connect with it, and that's not something that translates on a poster. It's no Diablo. The power and performance are the reason why we're not getting an uprated GT86. Almost any small turbo on the 86 increases the power to the point where its power-2-weight ratio pretty much matches the new Supra. Toyota have expressed a desire to get the 3 brother lineup back, which means they need 3 market segments. A turbo 86 will eat into the Supra's target audience. Toyota are trading on the Supra name because this is a BMW. Not a bad thing, but not a Toyota, and not a Supra. It's over-priced. £53K puts it more expensive than the BMW M240i (which is the same drivetrain), more expensive than the Z4 (the same car), and against Alfas, Porsches, BMWs, Audis, MB. All good cars but the market is moving. 4 years ago when the concept was launched is a very different place to where we are now. Diesels are almost banned and electric is the chosen solution moving forward. The car I'm waiting for information on is the Porsche Tycan. I'm a Toyota fanboy and they haven't 'lit' me up on this Supra. As an aside, are car launches usually so cringe-worthy? This is the first one I've been able to watch live and the jokes were terrible, no audience rapport, nothing.

I've just checked my installation and I don't have the coolant pipe wrapped either. My install is about 14 months old. The clearance to the pulley is close but I do have quite a gap between the coolant pipe and the exhaust pipe. I'm struggling to visually see the depth, but on the first picture, and on my car, the exhaust pipe seems to be quite a bit lower than the airbox, whereas on the image of the damaged pipe the top of the exhaust seems to be almost on a level with the air box. Is it possible that there's a spacer somewhere that's raising the exhaust slightly? I know that someones mentioned a manufacturing tolerance, but that appears to be quite some tolerance!

I've not had a problem with my 86, however, with previous cars I've used a little grease around the rubber seals. When trying to quickly defrost my windscreen I will start the engine, blowers on full to the screen, I keep a bottle of water (by the front door, not in the kettle!) in the house, then I just pour it on the windscreen. 99% of the time it clears the frost, then I put the wipers on full. Occasionally I have to refill the bottle (from the cold tap) and do it again. I then quickly wipe the screen down. Only once has it ever re-frozen again. Then I scrape it clear (a light hoar frost) and at this point the blowers are upto the job and I can begin driving. Although by this point the neighbours are now awake and glaring at me because of the noise of the exhaust!

The plugs haven't been changed to my knowledge. Car's done 22K, I've owned it pretty much since new.