GravelRash

Hi, I've been smelling burnt oil for a while and yesterday I took the opportunity to peer under the bonnet and I can clearly see that something has been dripping on to my exhaust pipe. To be clear, this is not the cam plate. That's already been replaced and clearly isn't leaking (I can physically see and touch it). This leak is almost directly next to the drivers wheel. I can't get my hand down there as it's far too tight, but using an extensible adjustable mirror and a torch I can see some oil on a bolt. It looks like it's located under the coil pack area. Oil level's seem fine and don't seem to be dropping. Have other people seen this? How difficult / easy is this to fix? @Riceburner - Would this be covered under the Toyota warranty (3+ years remaining)

I had the same problem with the Fensport camera. I also found that the relay on the wiring loom in the boot got warm, indicating that it was engaged all the time. Ultimately I just disconnected it and use my reversing sensors.

Following the cancellation of the Jap-2-Jap a couple of us who made the space in the calendar are planning to head over to the Evo triangle in Wales for a few laps before the locals chase us off. People are welcome to come and to quote my friend ' Porsche's will be in attendance'. Event: Evo Triangle cruise Date: 4th November 2018 Start: 10:30 Meeting Point: Asda Queensferry Supercentre, Aston Rd, Queensferry, Deeside CH5 1TP Details: We will meet up around 10:30 before heading over to the Evo Triangle. We are planning to do a few laps with the option for stopping at the visitor centre and taking various photos and stuff. The Evo Triangle is EVO Triangle {Google Maps Link} The visitor centre that we are hoping to stop at for photo's and stuff is located at Cerrigydrudion, Conwy LL21 9TT I've never done this before, but my friend who is also coming has and says it's a fun road to drive. At least one of the Porsche's will be a MY18 Cayman. Come see the 'grown up' version of our car.

Depends on when but sure, I think Oli might also be up for that as he wants to try it.

They were held up by the slower 86's. In my opinion the acceleration is the biggest difference; they can simply accelerate faster than we can, so they are able to 'punch' out of the corners. This is most noticeable because our (well mine) driving abilities mean we're not holding our speed through the corners. So we all need turbos.

It was good to find out that the car itself is fairly well sorted and the only thing wrong is me!

Thanks to everyone who attended. I hope everyone had a good time despite the weather.

Hi and welcome. The car won't stay standard for long. If nothing else, you'll be upgrading the paper speakers in the dash and the doors! G.

Just don't speed

Let me check the rules..... yeah that's fine

Hold the phone.... I can make this

Adds that little extra frisson at 3 figures. Will it hold...

For more power Deacon's advice is sound, although I'd anticipate that you'll only gain a few HP at the wheels, although the manifold swap will decrease the torque dip significantly, which will improve normal road drivability (on the track you're probably above the torque dip most of the time anyway). I've got a similar setup to what Deacon has outlined and the car makes slightly over 215bhp / 200whp. If you're looking for more power then FI (Turbo or S/C) is realistically the only way forward. Both have pros and cons and consensus seems to be around 270bhp max before you really start running a risk of the engine blowing. A question to ponder, if you've not already thought about it; what's the reasoning behind a need for more power? If it's slip-road drag races, I'd be considering a different car; the 86 isn't quick and there's easier and cheaper ways to go much faster. If it's an A-road/B-road/Track car then I'd be looking at suspension and driving tuition. In my experience on a track I can't drive the car to it's corning limits, so I'd find more speed in the bends and the braking zones rather than the drag out of the corner.

I don't know anything about head units, but it might help people with more knowledge if you outline what you're looking for in a headunit? Maybe what the shortcomings are with the current unit in your car?

Hi Jay and welcome, My car has the Toyota satnav. I used it originally when I got the car, but ultimately I found it passable at best. I travel all-over in the 86 to random places and I use Waze on my iPhone in a Brodit 86 mount. G.

Sit and watch the automotive porn. Share this special moment. This did not go down well with my other half, but someone, somewhere might have better luck!

Absolutely this. I done it both ways, and whilst I can't fault any individual tuner, it's just easier when they're closer.

Need some help chaps! My passenger door speaker has stopped working. It was working fine, I swapped a Focal speaker in and now it doesn't work. I've put the OEM speaker back in and its also not working. Both tweeters (focal) in the dash are working, as is the drivers (focal) side speaker. The AMP fuse is intact, and I presume the Stereo fuse is working because the stereo is also working. Using my multi-metre I can't see any voltage across the connector into either speakers (focal or OEM), so I presume that means that the signal isn't getting to the speaker. The rest of the door seems to work fine. What's going on? Where can I check next? At the moment the passenger door is exposed with no electrical connectors attached, so my door is locking via central locking, but my window is half down!

Does it go away (get quieter) when the engine is warm and the gearbox has been used for a while? Another check could be to gently move the gearstick towards each gear without using the clutch. Don't push it into gear, just push enough to 'feel' it begin to engage. You might find one of them makes the noise stop. Mine does this when it's cold and if I 'touch' 3rd, then the noise goes away for a bit. For mine I assume it's just mechanical noise.

Fixed. Put the OEM tweeter back in and the speaker worked. Closer inspection of the Focal wiring adapter revealed a plastic residue on one of the adapter prongs. Scraped this off with a small screwdriver and everything works. So not Subaru's wiring at all. And now I've got 4 working speakers.

Finally got back home. 86 flawless in the snow. Yes the tweeters are swapped to the Focal ones as well. I did wonder if I'd got a loose wire up in that area, but they all seem good as well. Having spent a week driving around, the speaker has never once come to life, but TBH the single drivers door and two tweeters are doing just fine. It's not ideal but I don't want to rip the car apart chasing wiring. Just put it down to crappy Subaru stuff

Not really sure where to start looking for answers, so here's my 'problem' or observation of a trait that I want to fix. Over a number of different A and B roads when I'm having some fun, so 30-40mph (ish) and accelerating, if I hit the right combination of bumps (not pot holes I avoid them where possible) you can hear the engine revs stop rising, the exhaust note drops, the car 'goes' light and then it just continues, albeit you can hear and feel the car pick up the acceleration again. The car (MY17) is lightly modified, but the suspension is all factory (winter tyres at the moment, otherwise stock alloys) and I think it's something to do with the suspension, but beyond this I'm not sure. Is it geometry, better springs, anti-roll (sway) bars. Usually I'd just lower the car till it scrapes and then rise it a few mm, but this is my daily and that's just not going to cut it. Is this normal, and how have other people removed this annoyance? Cheers for any help and 'learn to drive' is an appropriate response if needed

I hadn't considered TC. I don't recall seeing the dash light up, but I'm not typically looking at the dash, more looking down the road. I should mention that I've not experienced this in my old MR2 Roadster, which often did the A57 (Snake for the locals). This road is a bugger for the bounce in the 86. The reason for posting today is I ran the Snake last night and I thought 'I must get this sorted!'

I don't know if this is relevant any more, but I used the Dinitrol kit on my other car. I purchased the large car kit and it came with: A spray adapter for my compressor, which then screws into the various tubes. A single rust conversion rattle can (which I've not used as I was cutting rust out and welding fresh in) Several tubes of heavy duty spray Some tubes of cavity wax From my observations: Don't get this stuff on you, you will remove skin taking it off It seems pretty good and sticks to the car well Your arms take a beating holding the spray gun You use a lot of it (well I did) The cavity wax was runny and the car 'bleeds' for a while afterwards so don't do it on a light covered driveway Don't use rattle cans, whilst I've not used Dintirol from a rattle can I found that overall it just clogged up the nozzle rather than covered what I wanted I bought a compressor with a large tank primarily for this job (and now I have air-tools and the essential buzz-gun for the bzzz bzzz noise. I've never used it, just go bzzz bzzz with it ) In terms of use: This was the first time I've tried anything like this and I found it fairly easy. I only did the rear of the other car and it was on axel stands, so I was mostly lying on my back, and I spent around 4 hours. The nozzle on the spray gun is fairly accurate: I got what I aimed at and was able fairly quickly to direct the spray as desired. Do it on a warm day or heat the tubes in hot water otherwise they don't mix well Don't cover rust and think it's done. if it's already rusty, fix the rust, seal the repair and then once it's repaired properly, then use the under sealant stuff. Just covering the rust will mean at some point water will continue to rust; water outside can't get in... water already in, can't get out. Finally, I've absolutely no issues doing this to my GT86 at some point.

I'd take a small torch and check to see how bad the rear engine oil leak is. It seems to be a known flaw on the FA20 engine. My car is less than 12 months old, about 8K miles and the other day I smelt burning, had a check and I can see evidence of dripping onto the over-pipe. To do this: Pop the bonnect Stand slightly behind the drivers wheel and look down behind the engine You will see a engine plate with 3 bolts: (This is not my picture, it's a Google image search) It leaks from behind this cover and drips onto the exhaust overpipe. From what I've read it's a warranty fix, but they basically seem to bodge it and it's only a matter of time before it will leak again. If it is leaking, you may smell it and keep an eye on your oil levels. Longer term you can purchase a aftermarket kit to permanently fix this issue.