GravelRash

My (possible simplistic) understanding is that it opens earlier but so you can run more advance slightly earlier but after a period of time your coolant is above the opening thresholds of the OEM thermostat and at this point there's no benefit, so in reality its impact is minimal and limited to the timeframe it takes your coolant to move between the performance thermostat and the OEM thermostat, and on a trackday, I expect that timeframe is measured in minutes, so probably a lap or 2, when you're warming the tires up anyway. Happy to be corrected, I've never run one, so this is all theory on my part.

You don't need to leave it in the OBD2 port. I have the ECuTek dongle permanently in because I use it to monitor the car, but the car runs fine without it attached.

On my Focal tweeters there was a small piece of plastic insulation over the metal spade connector, possible left over from manufacturing. This stopped the tweeter from working and was quite difficult to spot until I was looking for it. In this instance my tweeters weren't working until I removed this sliver of plastic. They are not amazing, but better than the OEM speakers. I just assumed it's because they are an afterthought in the car TBH.

I’ve got a requirement to tap into the Parking Brake Signal. I’m not sure what this is or where this in the 86. Can anyone enlighten me. In specific details, I’m not very good with this stuff!

Used the single wire on the handbrake assembly as the feed and it’s working great. Thanks for all the replies and assistance.

It’s not for a stereo, it’s for EDFC. Needs a 0v circuit and then just mentions the parking brake signal. thanks for all the replies.

I think it's a Helmhoz resonator. IIRC they are used to control pulse waves in the intake. I don't think it would improve throttle response. I recall reading about some throttle hesitation in the FRS forum that was traced to the PCV system not scavenging properly. This was on a turbo-charged car so it's probably not related but it's another possible avenue.

That's good to know! I've often had things on the passenger seat and never seen the SRS system complain about it.

I got this once when I was working on the car. It can, perhaps obviously, be triggered by a wire being loose in a connector. In my case it was because I had knocked a airbag wire behind the B-pillar trim. I don't know the history of your car but maybe someone has had some trim off and one of the connectors isn't quite lined up. This car has a lot of airbags but for the ones I've seen they are mostly easy to get to. I anticipate the most difficult is the steering wheel airbag, because most instructions are for LHD, certainly it look me a little longer than expected to get to that airbag. In my case I drove for 40 miles with the dashboard permanently displaying SRS failure. This warning was insistent and invasive but didn't hinder the car from driving. I presumed that in the event of an accident the airbags that work would go off. Depending on your level of mechanical ability I would start with checking ones that might have been disturbed: Seats - its located underneath and probably can see with some gymnastics and a torch B-Pillar - it's behind the trim which is just clips and could be disturbed if the speakers have been changed Steering wheel (if it's been changed) The others are in the trim and dashboard and I don't think they would have been easily disturbed I'm not aware if the diagnostic system on the car is smart enough to determine which one is at fault, much like the tire pressure fault doesn't know which tire is low.

A good summary.

The vents do stop the standard bonnet from flexing. I've got a turbo located at the front of the engine bay and it definitely helps with the under-bonnet temperatures. I'm not going by the oil temperature, more when I open the bonnet I don't melt with the heat wave. The vents and oil cooler have been on so long I can't remember if it's helping the oil temperature.

Personally I would just ask TD to look at it. It would save me from the hassle of a dealer and if they don't fix it properly and it comes back, it could clash with TD doing the work anyway at which point they (dealers in general) IME, will point to the mods and let the responsibility slide from their shoulders.

I saw on Twitter that it's been located but it sounds like there might be some damage. So gutting and if it has got some damage I hope it's not serious. What an horrendous experience.

Suspension bushings adjusting? Might be worth giving the bushes a liberal spray with a lubricant and then see if it continues. This isn't a full fix but more of a diagnostic technique to help identify the cause.

Two thoughts on this A.) The engine bay isn't water tight and everything is designed to get wet B.) My car looks like a steam train when the wraps get wet and they puff. Personally I put something (usually a flattened piece of cardboard) under the bonnet when the car is outside and parked, and this is more to keep excess moisture off the wraps / air intake. I also have some rain guards, but TBH i found them a PITA to take off when I wanted to drive the car, and I always removed them when driving regardless of weather. Another factor on the rain-guards was they are excellent funnels for melted ice water when snow rests on them. My take, I don't worry about, if things break then it's a great excuse to upgrade them.

I have the Perrin v2 engine mounts. I had my idle speed increased to 900rpm by the installers (TD) on their recommendation as they said at stock idle the vibration was brutal. At 900 I don't notice any other vibrations but they've been on for a while so I might just be used to it.

I recently purchased the Cusco steering brace and installed it, before my car even left the garage I'd also managed to get hold of the TRD bracing kit which includes another set of steering rack braces. Following some discussions I've decided to use the TRD steering brace. Therefore my cusco steering brace is available. The brace has been installed on my car, never driven on (the car never left the ramps) and then uninstalled, so the sum total of time on my car was 1 week. They are very easy to install, using the stock bolts, but I needed a breaker bar to get the OEM bolts released. This is what the look like installed (Passenger side) This is the drivers side off the car, showing both sections roughly assembled. I will also include the instruction sheet, but it's basically a simple install and the OEM bolts should be tightened to 120nm (same as the wheels). The dirt is underseal off my car. Where can I buy them brand new? Fensport has them for ~£92 + postage: https://www.fensport.co.uk/collections/toyota-gt86-2017-on/products/steering-rack-mount-reinforcing-brackets-cusco-gt86-brz What do they do? From my research Steering braces tighten up the steering on initial turn-in during high speed corning. They are thought of highly and frequently seem to be named as one of the best brace types to install. Alternatives mentioned are poly brushes. There's also some positive feedback for poly brushes and braces on the steering rack. I have both now fitted. How much am I looking for? I'm looking for £75 ono and they are near Stoke-on-Trent. Postage? I've no idea TBH, I don't live near a post office so pick up would be my preferred option. Assuming my car isn't on the my lift I might be able to help fit them. Because they are potentially more track orientated, I'm at Oulton Park on November 15th and again on December 17th and I can bring them along. But I'm not against postage if necessary and we can sort something out.

Hi, Last weekend I fitted the Cusco steering rack braces. This week the TRD brace kit arrived and therefore I have the TRD steering rack braces as well. They cannot both be fitted together so I need to make a choice. The car also has new polybushes in the steering rack. At the moment my drivers side has the TRD brace fitted and the passenger side has the Cusco. I've not driven the car so I have no experience of either at the moment. I have a slight preference but it's based on nothing scientific. Does anyone have any experience of these and does anyone have an opinion of which might be better? I do have a preference but I'd like to hear what others think. The set that doesn't get picked will be available for purchase. The TRD bracket. Sorry about the angle, the car's in the air and I was on my back. The Cusco Bracket on the car: And what it looks like off the car

I've decided to use the TRD braces so the Cusco braces will be up for sale shortly. The reason was basically: a.) It's red (as my car is) b.) I preferred that it triangulated the steering rack, although I don't really think this makes a difference as I don't see a plane of motion, but, see a.). The Cusco brace, for anyone that's interested, seems thicker and weights a little more. It's a really nice blue (IMO) as well.

Maybe you've inadvertently knocked a hose and have an small air leak somewhere? I had similar symptoms (slightly hunting idle as well) and I hadn't tightened down my intake so I was leaking air.

My TD oil cooler thermostat comes in around 70°c. I leave it running all year round and on most street driving it gets up to around 80°c during the warmer months and when I was N/A my oil was registering at 67°c during a snowstorm on a 55mph motorway. On the track I tend not to let the oil go above 115°c, no particular reason, and I've taken it as high as 120°c (all with turbo).

Always nice to see instruction videos, see what lines various instructors like and how other drivers approach tracks. Had a chuckle at the GTR totally overcooking Druids and using the acceleration to pull ahead.

From the recent Oulton Park trackday. Taken by a local photographer.

Ignore this post. Apologies.

Something along those lines but I don't remember exactly. My justification is the car is remapped on the ECUTek and this is the vendor monitoring for it. I can also upgrade and then tweak my tune specifically as I need to (I haven't done this yet). Tuning cars isn't cheap. You pay to play.