KAS

Yep, the stock mic is powered via the loom, but the pioneer mic is plugged into the head unit with a 3.5mm jack or similar. If I remember correctly, I’ve tucked the old mic under the steering wheel cowl somewhere and routed the new mic and clip in its place. Pretty easy to do

Are you using the mic that came with the head unit?

Parts catalogue is at amayama.com That website is good value for ordering small OEM parts straight from Japan Google “BRZ repair manual“ and you should find a link to a few versions on the American forum. Don’t think they have part numbers but they’re useful to have anyway

Can’t really hear anything in there. Check for any contact between the manifold on the metal undertray? Possible noisy tensioner or alternator?

Depends on what you want out of it. Android auto, wireless CarPlay etc? The only headunits that fit without needing fascia plates are the xtrons android type units for the 86s, which are wider than normal double din units. I think kenwood used to make a “Toyota Wide” unit but was only available over in Japan/Oz etc

Be careful with the jet wash, the fins are pretty fragile, and the pressure could blow them out of the rad

You can use a good degreaser or all purpose cleaner like Bilt Hamber surfex HD diluted down. Spray on, let it soak in, use a soft brush to agitate, and hose from the back of the rad to flush it out. And repeat. If you can blow some air thru from the back that would help too. Rich’s idea of having the core replaced would probably be way cheaper than buying new!

It’s the wire that comes off the handbrake switch. Is this for a (pioneer) stereo install? You can buy parking brake sensor bypasses for about £15 and save yourself from having to splice in to factory wiring

I only run them in winter, and only have one pretty rubbish photo, sorry lol. I’m back on my 18s now

I second varelco. I use 15mm eibach bolt on spacers when I run stock wheels. If you run 6mm spacers you will need to replace your wheels studs with longer ones which is quite involved. 15mm spacers on stock wheels look much better. Fitting is easy although torquing the bolts on the front spacers is a bit of a pain. Just remember that 50miles after first fitting the bolt on spacers, you need to take the wheels off and check/retorque the spacer nuts. Then 50miles after that check/retorque the wheel nuts.

Have you tried an ecu reset? https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68328 You could also try to recalibrate the throttle pedal. I’ve got the TD NA kit, and if the issue is similar to what I get at around 3000rpm, a slight hesitancy then surge on reapplying the throttle, I wonder if it could it be something to do with the VVT [emoji848]

Thanks James. If it’s the legit TRD kit they should’ve been installed with pop clips into pre-existing holes in the sills and screws/brackets in the arches the arches. So could you make sure they keep the fitting kit please?

I’m keen on the TRD skirts. When will they be ready?

Those spot welds on mine have separated on both sides but I thought that was because of my subwoofer [emoji1787] I’m surprised it’s making a noise when you’re pulling away tho, I can’t see why it would be under any load… glad you found it!

What time stamp should we hear the noise? How old is the car and are there any mods? Try checking the exhaust or heat shields for rubbing. Are the diff bushings done up tight? Are the brake pads sticking at all? Is the squeak from the seat belt socket? I can’t really tell what the noise is so I’m just throwing some ideas out lol

So because I’m old school and I was doing some prep for my MOT, I thought I’d give the inside of the throttle body a quick clean now that the cars done 45k miles. Now, when driving, and pressing the clutch coming to a stop, the revs will drop to 1krpm but then rise up to 1.5 or 2krpm until I’ve come to an absolute stop. There seems to be a bit of Rev hang and delay when decelerating too. Has anyone cleaned their throttle body and had this issue? I’ve tried removing the EFI fuses and recalibrating the throttle pedal (pressing it 5 times slowly while ignition is on but engine off) To clean it, I used carb cleaner and a rag and a load of what I assumed was soot/dirt/oil residue came off from around the butterfly and behind it. The actual bore of the throttle body was clean, and so was the front of the valve. But there was a circle of black around the edge of the valve and in the bore behind it. I can only find one post of the FT86 forum in which one person suggests it’s a molybdenum coating to reduce friction and help seal around the valve.

Finally got round to doing lol Found some info about the coating here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/438430-ported-throttle-body-plate-sealant-2.html This is what is left of “goop” on the back of the throttle body which my initial “cleaning” missed. Looks like it was brushed on. Similar moly paste is £60 a tin, so I went with the spray on moly dry lube by CRC which ended up being quite a thin layer despite a few coats Masked up Sprayed on front and back, I opened the valve to spray on the circumference of it too Cured for three hours and then lightly buffed Reconnected the battery, and did the relearn procedure as before. Results: the Rev hang has gone when shifting gears so I’m happy. But I still feel like the engine braking isn’t immediate when I let off the throttle, it very smoothly transitions to engine braking - I don’t know if that’s normal so I might have to book a test drive of another 86 [emoji1787] I could be used to my KTM single cylinder strong ass engine braking tho lol Lesson 1: don’t clean your throttle body with carb cleaner. I think there’s actually a couple of brands who make proper throttle body cleaning spray which don’t remove the molybdenum coating. I reckon a quick wipe with a dry rag would’ve removed the tiny bit of dirt that had accumulated at the bottom of the valve. And that’s lesson 2: don’t go straight for the big guns when cleaning, use the least aggressive method first [emoji1787]

I don’t wanna speak too soon, but cleaning the MAF and resetting the ecu last night using this method https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68328 seems to have improved it. There still seem to be a little bit of Rev hang changing gear, and deceleration doesn’t seem to be immediate but it hasn’t spiked higher than 1200rpm when dipping the clutch coming to a stop which is the main improvement. I just can’t remember if all that’s normal behaviour or not lol I spent £20 on some special Moly spray and £30 on a new gasket so I’ll probably remove the TB after the MOT and give it a new coating anyway and hope I don’t make it worse [emoji1787]

Idle is spot on. I only removed the intake hose from the TB, and disconnected it from the sound gen tube and airbox. I actually used a ratchet to tighten the clips back up, so I know they’re good. But I’ll be removing the intake hose again to clean the maf now that my maf cleaner spray has turned up. So I’ll double check for leaks, I always forget to check the simple stuff so cheers for the reminder [emoji1787] I found this pic of a brand new engine on the Perrin website, the TB has the same black stuff around the valve so I’ve ordered some dry moly spray to recoat the valve and rear TB walls.

Yup, that was the before pic, and that’s what I thought as well. But every photo I’ve seen since of TBs on these cars all have the same “soot” around the valve. That’s why I’m starting to believe it is actually a molybdenum coating, rather than soot/dirt. I didn’t actually spray anything into the TB, just carb cleaner on a rag to wipe it all “clean” lol - so there shouldn’t be any debris I’ve got some CRC maf sensor cleaner on the way, but there’s no issues with idling or stalling, or general running other than mentioned in my first post. I don’t think the valve is sticking either because as soon as I come to a complete stop, the revs go back down to normal idle. It’s just that period of pressing the clutch in to actually halting where the revs drop to 1k then rise up to 1.5 or 2k rpm. If the coating on the valve was there deliberately, then it would have reduced the amount of air that can pass thru when no throttle is applied, so now I feel that the ECU may effectively be seeing more air than normal with the valve in that position, so is having to compensate to close it a little further. I dunno, but it’s doing my head in [emoji1787] Will try disconnecting the battery tonight, and if that doesn’t sort it, I’ve read that flashing the Map/tune back onto the ECU can fix it.

So that’s what the white pad is for! I bought mine when it was 2 years old and it never had the cup - just the white pad lol Learn something new everyday. I like the zip tie idea [emoji1417]

Sorted

You can get kits to diy https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/scratch-repair-and-paint-restorers/rain-x-windscreen-repair-kit-125108.html

Oh check out the uneven wear on the inside of factory discs and pads after 4 years and 32,000 miles! Most likely another reason why the rears start to squeak so much. Also, the single use carrier bolts get pretty bad which is why toyota say to replace them

I nearly bought some from eurocarparts just for the shims, but I got the shims from brakes international for less than half the price of toyota instead. The fronts came with new boots for the sliders, but the rears didn’t. But toyota only sell them as part of a rebuild kit. Fitted new bushes to the lower pins all runs from toyota tho. 500 miles squeak free so far [emoji23]