TommyC

I tried all combinations of buttons. Only one that worked for the situation was everything off... 😬😵

Every day's a school day... Breakout TorqueWhen loosening bolts a torque value higher than the tightening torque is normally required. This is mainly due to corrosion and deformations in the bolt and nut threads.Breakout torque cannot be accurately calculated, however, depending on conditions it can take up to 2 1/2 times the input torque to breakout. I never knew this!! I just remember teaching NEVER use a torque wrench to undo fasteners. This must be why, as this will definitely put the torque wrench out of calibration, or worst case kill the mechanism completely 😬😬

Jevvy, what was the temperature of the wheels/brakes when you were loosening the bolts? I mean, the car been sat still since the day before? There's a possibility that them being really cold could have caused the studs/nuts to be clamping on tighter due to slight shrinkage?!! (Coupled with some enthusiastic 'torque tightening' and some copper slip could account for your 200Nm+ reading...)

WARNING! TOTAL ENGINEERING NERD POST!! This goes some way to explain the differences... https://www.enerpac.com/en-us/torque-tightening Friction will 'use up' some of the torque value the torque wrench is set to. Imagine you set the torque wrench to 120Nm, but the bolts were so stiff to move you 'used up' 20Nm to make them begin to turn. When they're finally tight and the wrench has clicked (or beeped) at 120Nm, there will be a reduced clamping force holding the assembly together (probably equivalent to 100Nm of torque). Now imagine you have the same torque wrench set to 120Nm, and a standard threaded fastener (no extra friction). You put oil or grease on the threads and tighten it with your torque wrench until it clicks (or beeps). The reduced friction from the oil/grease means the fatener will turn more for the same applied force, resulting in an increased clamping force holding the assembly together (maybe the equivalent to 125-130Nm for example). In most cases for most torque applications it is presumed the fastener (bolt/screw/nut) being torqued is 'dry', and there is negligible friction on the threads. If lubricated torque is required the type of lubricant will be mentioned in the procedure. (Can anyone guess I used to teach this stuff to Aircraft Mechanics?😬) END OF POST, END OF WARNING! 😂😂

Heat may help, but i think the only way to get a decent concentration of heat would be a blow torch...😬 I'm wary of tyre places as I've had no less than 3 locking wheel nuts stripped by 3 different places over the years. Each time saw them re-fitting using the air/impact guns. They claimed to have torqued them as well, but me politely explaining "clicking a torque wrench set at 120Nm on something wound up way more is not torque loading" just provoked strange looks and/or attitude... 🙄🙄🙄 I hope you get it sorted ok 🙂

Does the car have keyless entry or not?

I spent a good few minutes examining them to see why they don't fit as well as the factory items. The plastic moulding on the Focals is deeper than the originals but has a little gap/join line around the circumference. This is not quite at the same height or the same depth as the moulding on the originals but the clips grip it. A gentle test satisfied me that they will grip enough to hold it unless you were to smack a pothole big enough to write a wheel off or start 'dukes of hazard'-ing around the place! 😂 I suppose some very carful dremmel work (or similar) in the right places would ensure the vice-like grip of the originals...

Inspired by this thread... http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/4907-focal-is165toy-installation-and-review/ ...I have purchased and installed the same front speakers. Following a combination of guidance from a youtube video and some of the original post I completed the job, by myself, in the dark on my driveway, on Sunday evening. It took 40-50mins from start to finish to replace all 4 speakers!! I did not completely remove the door cards though. I left everything connected to them and carefully rested them on my legs whilst sat on the sills, working around/under them. A little tricky but no screws/speakers were dropped in the process. Each door speaker took about 10-15mins to do from 'pop this screw cover off' to 'quick sound test'. The trickiest bit of the entire job was undoing the tweeter connections! The speakers are definitely an improvement on the standard things and it's made me want to swap the rears now as I prefer to be 'enveloped' in my music while driving 😁

I've always liked a good audio setup. My friends have been into HiFi and car audio in the past and quite knowledgeable too (although I've never heard them mention bedding in). I can honestly say I've never heard of this, but it makes sense to me now I've bothered to think about it. Thanks folks 😀 Every day's a school day ! 🙂

I'm surprised that there is a bedding in period, but I look forward to another improvement 😀 It really wasn't that bad at all, they balanced/rested nicely on my thighs. Replaced the speakers with one arm round the side and one arm underneath the door card. Could only really see what i was doing with one eye, but it was enough 😁

At Bruntingthorpe today for some Aircraft maintenance and engine runs. Couldn't resist a cheeky shot of my motor and the Aircraft 😁

The car I test drove was dripping straight onto the exhaust! It was quite bad and filled the cabin with a really bad burning smell whenever stopped at junctions/traffic lights etc 😬 I know some situations can warrant a degree of ignorance, but this one really needs to be fixed when it shows up!

Have you had any luck with this yet? Instinct points towards the switch... That said any rotary fluid pump will kick out low flow and pressure at low rpm. Most hydraulic pumps/oil pumps have a pressure regulating valve so they only kick out the desired pressure (a kind of bleed valve to return excess pressure to the pump inlet). There's a chance that they'll barely produce the required pressure at low rpm (idle) but just above this they'll be fine. My old Kawasaki Ninja used to have the same symptoms as you describe. It was fine when warmed up just used to flicker when idling cold unless you wound the choke on a bit. I changed the pressure switch and tried an oil system flush but never cured it... What I'm trying to say is that it's quite likely there's no problem at all, it could just be a characteristic due to the particular parts in your pump (a 1 in a million type thing).

Oh cool! I know where to go now if mine starts leaking 🙂

Been waiting to see if mine will become a problem as it was apparent on another car I test drove befor buying mine. Couldn't find many aftermarket ones on sale in the uk. Found this CNC machined plate complete with O-ring and bolts... https://www.bingabinga.co.uk/solution-billet-cam-plate-red-fits-for-subaru-brz-scion-fr-s-2013.html but it's far from a trustworthy looking site 😬 Don't think the afermarket plate is worth it though, having read this... http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117116

Yep, I get this happening too. I just 'dip and blip' and it settles 🙂

Having watched many videos on Forced Induction for the GT86/BRZ, many (specifically the big power builds) complain of under bonnet temperatures causing significant issues (especially when the heat has 'soaked in'). I'm curious that there aren't many fixes for this talked about. Bonnet Hinge Spacers have at times been a common mod in certain circles (even for those just wanting a 'Motorsport' look). I'd have thought these to have been one of the first things attempted?! Another thought is to put some effort into making the front wing 'vents' actually work. I know this would mean cutting holes in the wing panels behind the 'trim' pieces etc but if thought through and designed well, could they extract a decent amount of heat/induce enough additional airflow at speed to make a suitable difference? (I know a bit about fluid/airflow from work, but these are just my idle thoughts)

Just trying to explore a solution to a problem. I've not exactly experienced it but I'm just trying to understand/discuss solutions to an apparently common problem. I would like to go FI in the future but this depends on a number of things and is likely to be years away, if it happens at all. I understand what you say about the pressure at the back of the bonnet, but if there was enough of a pressure drop/draw, at speed, at the vents then flow would still be achieved?! Also I generally prefer function over form (but not exclusively). It's always slightly bothered me that the side vents are purely cosmetic...

Oh, ok. Nothing untoward then. I'll dig through the literature I have, just in case I've missed something...

Looking at replacement head units. Trying to get the measure of this one... https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products/avh-x490dab Anyone got one?

I'm weighing up the options for some sound upgrades and your guide has helped massively. The thing I'm deliberating over is the loss of CD player (yes I'm THAT old school I still listen to CDs in the car!). Your setup does seem to be the best for the budget and I'll definitely be ordering some Focal speakers (I've had them in the past and been impressed). I found this head unit in the same price bracket, also by Pioneer... https://www.pioneer-car.eu/eur/products/avh-x490dab I might be missing something but seems to have the same functionality with the addition of DAB and a CD/DVD player. The drawback is clearly the look of the thing as its nowhere near as sleek etc. What am i missing?

Hi, I'm new. I bought a 62 plate black GT86 back in July. A genuine 1 lady owner from new and it had covered 18,500 miles! I had the lumpy idle issue and associated 'christmas tree' of dash lights within a week. I lived with it for about a week while researching the issue, but fortunately it was still in the five year Toyota warranty! I dropped it off with a 'fault diary' and picked it up a few days later all clean and sorted with no bill!!! I love the car and I'm planning some modifications... HU upgrade, JR11 wheels, torque dip removal (TD UEL is currently my plan). Anyway, I hope to learn much from all the community on here 😀

Perhaps I should change the post title to "I am a cliché" 😂😂😂

Yeah, that's the problem. I've been resisting so far... Years ago I had a Calibra (don't judge me) that I lowered, poly bushed, fitted 17s (big wheels at the time), fitted wilwood big brakes, magnex straight through exhaust, HIDs (a new thing at the time and only high end premium cars had them as standard), a subtle aerofoil spoiler (modified slightly and painted body colour), upgraded head unit with Focal 'mids and tweeters' and twin 12' subs. From memory it handled well, but the 86 platform is far superior (the only thing I've driven that I could compare to the 86/brz is a friend's Lotus Exige!). It would appear that I'm having some kind of mid life crisis and almost trying to build the same car again? 😬 😂