Ade

Only time I got squeal was driving 150miles to Oulton park. When I got there it was like chalk on a blackboard from all four corners.

You have club racers for the front and HC800+ for the rear end

I did warn they squeal like dieing pigs on light braking.

You must be soft on the brakes. HC800+ lasted me two trackdays. Switched to clubracers for better wear and fade performance

With really stiff springs they hardly compress under the weight of the car, so you get very little droop which can be bad. Adding a softer spring often called helper spring is used to increase compression under the load of the car and therefore more droop which helps grip over bad surfaces. Most coilovers with helper springs adjust height by changing preload. So they only really have one ideal ride height. The way teins, ohlins, hks ect do it is with a separate preload and length adjusters. So you are changing the length of the damper to adjust high and keep preload the same. Both have pros and cons. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

haha what they say is partially true. My rears dont have articulating top mounts, but the angle of the top mount lines up with the shaft angle unlike in their diagrams. Stock and most other coilovers do the same on the GT86. Its a good article and one I have read a few times. Bare in mind these Penskes are £10k for double adjustable and you have to either rely on people like RR racing to set them up or do it yourself. This is true for most high end motorsport suspension as Deacon found out when having to set his Motons up. Ohlins TTX are the same motorsport grade but the R&T is designed as a fit and forget solution, not one where the user has chassis engineers at their disposal to set them up properly. Not sure why they made the comparison really £10k Penske vs £3k Ohlins vs £2k KWs vs £1.5k RSR.....

@Rich196 I've got it installed by yet to give it a try. I get too excited at the track just wanting to get on circuit and drive, I forget to turn on apps on my phone.

Mitchelin/Yoko are probably being more honest whereas Federal want higher numbers as a good treadwear sells....

He told me it was less drony when he listened in the shop. But anyway, I'm aware I may end up getting the helmholtz added in the future. He cant hold revs and go WOT in the shop chap unless on a dyno. Anyway see how it goes you may be okay withbit as it is. But expect it to be a few dB louder at 5k rpms due to the reduced absorbtion chamber size.

Mine was measured as 76dB at bedford last December. That was before the Helmholtz were fitted, but their measurements massively vary. The Helmholtz made it a bit louder at higher revs but massively reduced the 3krpms drone when going WOT on the motorway to the point where it is a nice low pitch hum at WOT and not something that draws your attention. When I measured SPL with my non calibrated SPL meter at 45deg, 1meter away it was about 83dB @ 5500rpms with the helmholtz when hot. Cold its about 3-5dB less.

I spoke to Ian about those boxes. He made them for a customer that wanted loud. He made the small chambers built into there boxes a bit bigger and reduced the amount of absorbtion silencing. Not sure where the anti drone idea came from as the customer whizzed off before it was tested.

LOL yeah tell me about it. Mine started out as "i'll just change the speaker for those Focal OEM ones....." ... then a couple of unused Genesis Profile amps popped up...

I'd say the door and rear rear arches are equally as effective. The carpet already has sound deadening foam underneath, but the above to places are basically metal panels (that ring like a mother) and the a plastic trim over the top. Everywhere else there is at least something to kill noise a bit. In both cases make sure you apply CLD and Thinsulate to the inside of the plastic trim as well as the metal panels. The roof is also a tinny bit of metal with a bit of trim over it, but obviously less sound comes throguh there... unless its raining. I have to say it does make the car a more refined experience. Much lower road noise and the nice but reasonalby quiet exhaust note make it feel more like an OEM German sports car IMO.

I've been meaning to post some pic of my audio install. Rather than write an essay I will be brief with lots of pictures. Aim of the system was light and competition level sound quality. I used CLD, Egg box foam and 3M thinsulate to sound deaden. The latter two are very very light. I added 6kg of CLD total. I decided pretty quickly to have a front and sub with a fully active setup. Pioneer Headunit with DSP and crossovers built in and 3 amplifiers; a two channel for tweeters, a two channel for mid/bass and a single channel for sub. The two front amps fit under the drivers and passenger seat. The sub amp goes in the back mounted to the sub box on isolation feet. Doors were damped with CLD, sealed to make air tight as possible and foamed to prevent rattles. Speakers mounted on MDF baffles treated to seal them from water damage. I also added sound deadening to rear arches which made a world of difference. System Spec DEH-80PRS Headunit Genesis Profile 2 for Tweeters (under passenger seat) Genesis Profile 4 bridged to drive the mid/bass (Under Driver Seat) Genesis Profile Sub for the Sub (boot) Morel Virtus 602 component fronts Peerless XLS 10 4ohm subwoofer Van Damme Pro Audio Blue Speaker Cable (2.5mm for mid/bass and Sub, 1.5mm for tweeters) Van Damme Pro Audio Instrument cable with Brass Gold plated RCA connetors CCA 4AWG and 8AWG power cable Here is a ton of pictures. The headunit Dash in pieces fitting the Microphone for the bluetooth phone calls. Surround was glued together and covered Filled Next up - The Battery Installed an AGM battery for better voltage regulation The Doors Damped with CLD and added some Egg box foam inside Sealed to make as air tight as possible Whole door covered in closed cell foam Speaker baffle with acoustic foam to protect the back of the speaker from water behind the speaker Tweeter in the dash The Amps I forgot to take a pic of the passenger side but here is the drivers side for the mid bass (its bridged Genesis Profile 4) The Sub Sub enclosure is a hybrid MDF and Fiberglass molded to the base of the boot and bolted down using the spare wheel anchor and screwed to a bit of MDF glue the panel at the back. Sizing it up ready to fibreglass curing Made the top and test fitted the sub and Grill covered amp mounted on isolation supports installed in car Finally some addition sound deadening to block some road noise Layer of CLD to reduce panel resonance and two layer of 3M thinsulate This is the best place to start with sound deadening. Reduced road noise massively. So there it is. Hope you like it. Any questions please ask away. Cheers

Ah well must be a good idea then! Will be looking forward to hear yours at some point I was/am considering doing something like the Pioneer reference car that Adam Rayner posted about, with my Morel Tweeters: https://www.talkstuff.net/ipb/index.php/gallery/image/18467-hand-covered-with-leather-at-auto-audio/

Been tuning the system a bit more recently. I've changed the crossover point for the sub to 100Hz (12dB slope) for the midbass and 80Hz (24dB slope) for the sub. I feel I get a more punchy midbass this way. Overall it starting to sound like a proper SQ system but still need to work on a few things in the mid band.

Not sure if you've seen my thread? I used Genesis profile amps. Got a P4 bridged for the mids/bass under the drivers seat. Was a ball ache to get it to fit. Didnt want to drive so I used Silkaflex and 9mm mdf. There like 3mm clearance on one side. On the other side I used a P2 for the tweeters and managed to find a narrow 4 way midi fused distro block to go next to it.

Cool thread. I had reservations about mounting the mids in the dash as they will be mounted to plastic which is a bit wobbley and also at the lower mid frequencies might cause a wobbly frequency response due to comb filtering caused by windscreen reflections? Where are the tweeters going? A piller pods?

Without seeing details I couldn't comment. He knows the neck length and size was well as the volume of the chamber are important and has my spreadsheet to do the maths. He probably incorporated the helmholtz into each of the bigger single box like an OEM solution. Was it a GT86 he did it on? I shall P.m. you

Honestly if you have heard a spec L and happy with it, then for £575 in good nick its a steal. Its one of my favorite exhausts. 0.25" smaller pipe difference and the sharper bends wont affect flow that much. My H&S will set you back £1200 (inc vat) fitted for a new one. Alternatively you could buy a used H&S 2.5" cat back on the cheap. If its non resonated H&S can sell you a big box like I have for about £350 which is what @Rich196 has done. Additionally if you want bit more volume higher up but less low down for cruising, the Helmholtz can be added for a additional £330 inc vat fitted.

1. Tim86 - Norwich, Norfolk - Silver '86 2. Ade - Nr Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire - Red '86

Ah good to see the build thread chap. You are spot on about the Q300 its quiet everywhere and restrictive for an FI car. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I decent lowering spring should be okay. RCE yellows are 4.5kg front and rear and are a handling option. If you go for soft teins the ride will remain okay most of the time but roll will increase

I've got a saved search on ebay for a 99prs. But I have evaluated the service manual for both. They use the same analogue sections but different DACs. Measurably they are the same in terms of distortion. There is a thread somewhere where someone has tested them both for distortion. Having said that, the 99prs has a better dsp and more output for rears speaker ect... and looks pretty

At the moment not much as I am still tuning. AC/DC back in black mastered by sterling sound And Best of ELO Mr Bluesky But I will listen to a variety once it gets tuned to me liking. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk