Ade

235/40 R18 or 245/35 R18 on a 8.75J but I would check the manufacturers guidelines.

What are you using Kevin? also no force induction?

Its very tyre dependent. 225 on an 8.75 rim is a bit of a stretch and will probably lose you some grip on an extreme performance tyre according to the chassis engineers I am friendly with. On something like V105s the extra stiffness might be useful, but you have to bare in mind OEMs dont stretch tyres like that and tyre manufacturers design the tyres to fit how OEMs want them to fit/look. AD08Rs and other extreme performance and semi slicks have very stiff sidewalls and often recommend a narrower rim. E.g. Yokohama recommend a 7.5" rim for 225/45/17 AD08Rs.

It would be a pita but i think it sounds cool. Id heavily condense mine if we did it. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Nice! Im trying to decide between red or black alcantara too... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

CT25TY02 is a direct fit I believe. Someone on the other side used them and confirmed his Hertz HSK 165 went straight in with those.

5kg stuff is decent enough. Make sure its decoupled with foam. The decent ones come with a faom backing for decoupling but, the cheaper "MLV" is jsut the dense vinyl. I didnt use any of it in my GT86.

When I had the blue stuff I topped up with this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Toyota-GT-86-Super-Long-Life-Blue-Coolant-Pre-Mixed-1-Litre-/321693310643 FWIW when replacing the coolant you dont have to use subaru special blue. My local subaru dealer only buys it in 10 gallon drums so couldn't sell me any at a reasonable price. (think I got quaoted £60+ for 6 litres). The coolant needs OAT and low in phosphates, borates, nitrates, amines and silicate free. I think and manual says something along the lines of "use only Subaru blue long like coolant or any other low phosphate coolant using Organic Acid Technology and free from borates, nitrates, amines and silicates." I use Millers Alpine Red Long Life.

Cant be very dense MLV is it that light! Main source of sound in the cabin is the rear wheel arches and doors. If you pop the rear plastic panels off its a nice tin can camber in there. I'm still in the middle of my audio install (most of the cabin has been out ) but will do a thread once its done. I've only added sound deadening to the rear aches, boot and doors and it a decent improvement. Makes the car feel a bit more refined.

Silent coat is good stuff. There are 3 aspects to sound deadening/insulation: 1) kill panel resonance, or lower the resonant frequency. CDL such as dynamat and silent coat are good examples. They add weight to the panel and essential to get a decent mid/bass range punch with out the mids sound like they are pitchy. 2) break up airborn resonance - Acoustic foam does this. Looks like egg box foam. 3) A sound barrier to stop noise getting though. Closed cell fom is a light option for doing this, but mass loaded vinal is the daddy but it heavy.

VW also usually have more power than they quote....

@Rich if you wait a few more weeks, I will have some info on lightweight weight damping/deadening....both doors and car....

Top: It depends on tyres. On V105s i'd argue that not much, but it feels nicer with a higher roll stiffness. With soft semi slicks you'll probably gain quite a bit as the stock suspention will be heavily on the bump rubbers. Middle: You should look at the RS*S i-sport motospec. These are well known to be very comfortable and capable and monotube. http://www.rs-r.com/coilovers/ http://www.rs-r.com/product/scion-fr-ssubaru-brz-sports-i-coilovers-2012/ Bottom: Golf R is rapid with the REVO it can be around 370hp 0-60 3.7s. Power to weight of the golf R is ~200hp/ton. Yours 220hp/ton.....Revo ~250hp/ton

Tein Monos? I was going to get them until I convinced Nigel to sell me his Ohlins. Will be good to get a ride at some point

Hang on though @Lauren! Mike was multiple seconds slower you in a gt86 (even supercharged) so its not a fair comparison to the golf R which is very capable! On track you know driver skill is everything and thats the reason you overtake most cars @Bfranklyn86 - I would NEVER suggest to anyone that any aftermarket coilover is more comfortable than stock. Its a very subjective matter. Doubling the spring rates and proper damping will always be firm, its just that the way the damping works to give a smother feel that can make it subjectively smoother. Also stroke length is shortened so you cant take the same bigger bumps as with the stock suspension as you'll hit a bump rubber.

are you on stock roll bars? and what tyres?

Definitely prefer your version to that one. Looking again I reckon remove the outer ring.

I think you might be right but would need to see it. Photoshop?

Yes that's what I was trying to say, you have to adjust the chamber volume to match the gas temperature for the target frequency but once that has been done, I cant see it making much difference. On mine I stuffed a thermocouple in the exhaust as well as used an IR Thermometer externally on the dark welds to measure gas temperature at the mounting point before I did the calculations.

I have for sale a GT86Mounts Nexus 7 over AC mount. I will supply new 3M tape for mounting. Looking for £15 posted. Location: Cambridgeshire More info here: http://gt86mounts.com/product/nexus-7-2013-over-ac-tablet-mount/

Well firstly I will say I am not an expert on Helmholtz resonators, but they basically act in the same way as a wind instrument or a relex port of a speaker box works. So based on that, no it shouldn't make much difference to the amount of attenuation assuming the chamber is designed with the correct gas temperature. However the way the other silencers react may make a difference but I dont have any experience with that.

According to my calculations the helmholtz will be tuned to 3800rpm @ 180C gas temperature ( that is a guess based on mine being 150C at the back box but will vary depending on how hard you drive and the airflow under the car). Could be designed to tune a particular resonant frequency or for the sound they wanted. Either way Its one of the nicer sound exhausts IMO. Interestingly the website says it has 60mm diameter pipe. Must mean internal as 2.5" is 63.5mm.

Yeap. I'll do the calculations tomorrow. Cheers

If you want 300WHP on the Abbey Motorsport hub dyno, the cosworth/harrop makes around 270 hup hp with a decent exhaust. If I were you i'd get either of those and be happy. 270 vs 300whps is 11% and will save you a built engine, clutch, injectors, pump and other things. If you are feeling lucky you can fit a smaller pulley and take a risk on the rods.

I'll try after work. At the moment it's repacked up in the box and a bit (lot in fact) of a git to get out and then put back! No worries. Was just interested in the tuning frequency.