Ade

That's pretty normal, most are 2.5" O.D If you have a moment, could you measure the circumference and length of the Helmholtz?, as well as the pipe circumference and length that connects it to the main pipe?

Evidence? I think it will be heavily improved and probably given a new engine code.

I don't it will be the exact same engine as used in the lotus and sc corolla. For a start I'd expect it to use a new more efficient direct bolt on eaton charger in place of the old M series. Though the top gear article does say something about lotus...

Yep it relocates it right to the back you are correct. The main thing that affects throttle response on the tvs kits is the how quickly the bypass can close when you come on throttle.

The Cosworth does include a thermostat, filter AND badge. That's £100 worth of stuff Fensport charge £650+vat to install the new cossy kit so you are talking £6700 drive in dive out which is a lot of money, but in perspective its a £25k car and if you want the most tested and most likely to be reliable its definitely worth a thought. What Turbo does the TD kit use? is it a well known OEM manufacturer like BorgWarner ect? The TVS unit used in the cossy and harrop kit is used on Jaguars, Astons, Mercs ect... I reckon the new Yaris GRMN will have an Eaton charger too.

Yawn. @alucardo Cosworth kit is basically stage 1 + 2 now and its £4950+Vat now. For that you get the SC kit, thermostat, air filter and tune... oh and a shiny badge made by a local badge maker in Northampton It is expensive, but you get what you pay for. If you havent seen the cosworth owners thread on the other side, its worth a read as the guys at Cosworth share some details of the engine development and testing they did. Most notably the evaluation and testing of the stock rods and setting the cylinder pressure to a max safe limit.

@alucardo you are doing the right thing to choose a kit with test data. There are many kits that cannot stand up to repeated lapping of a circuit. I've done a few trackdays with @DanJ and can happily say both Harrop and Cosworth kits running stock boost are more than capable of running continuously are the track in high ambient temperatures and keeping intake temperatures down. I would recommend an oil cooler, though Dan (and others) just back off when they hit 130C after 10 minutes or so. This is not a bad idea as oil coolers are another failure point in the system and loss of oil pressure can be catastrophic, but if like me you are keen to be able to stay out 20mins+ and oil cooler is not a bad idea, but choose wisely and again look for test data. Here's a couple of sessions from different track days i've done in my Cosworth SC' car. and road driving

Sorry didnt see this. Yes pad smearing, if bad enough leaves lines on the discs and you can feel them by running your finger over the surface of the disc. Here's my stock disc after destroying project Mu HC800+ in two track days

@knightryder

I tried various different compounds on the back of mine when looking at break kits. Going from ±10% vs stock. It does have an effect also so does so many other variables. With all brakes the fronts get much hotter than the back under hard breaking so the pads are running at different temperatures, usually with the hotter fronts running at a lower friction coefficient. When selecting compounds for my front and rear brake kits I measured disc temperature after a track session and use that information to make a better judgment on which pads to use to maintain bias. Not all pad manufacturers will give the information though. Here is the Cosworth Streetmaster pad compound: Hoon around a B road disc might be a similar temps ~150C. Both pads are ~0.42 Now let imagine at the track the fronts run at 700C but the rears 400C. You can see the friction coefficient would be 0.38 for the front and 0.43 at the back. That's a 12% drop in bias. This is obviously a very basic approach, but gives you an idea how a higher temp pad just at the front vs front and rear could actually help maintain brake bias.

The silver bit on my wheels haven't coped that well in the winter. Powder coat next year me thinks.

How much do we think this will be? I am thinking with the spec: >205hp, sachs dampers, 4 pot brakes, BBS wheels, Torsen ect that it will be a higher spec than a fiesta ST, closer to a mini JCW......

Just roller for me. @Keethos glad you like the setup. Sounds pretty good. I love Oulton park, must have been fun in the wet!

Making something like this is on my list of to do things. Looks good.

Either it's me or MK roads, every car I've had has warped a set of discs at least once, these are pretty badly lipped too so I was expecting to have to replace them this summer anyway, was a little cheeky chucking another set of pads in. I think the constant 70mph-0-70-0 of roundabouts really doesn't help, as any more than 3 high speed stops kills most standard pads. If be very surprised if you have warped discs. Have you actually confirmed they are by checking runout? Ive done quite a few trackdays on the stock brakes and got them so hot the pads smeared pad compound unevenly all over the disc. The brakes judder a lot for the next 100 or so road miles and feels just like an old school warped disc when cars used to have non vented solid discs that could warp easily with uneven heat. Stock pads, especially if you have the soft ones fitted to reduce squeal, will melt relatively quickly.

I was thinking that about the oil cooler too!

I've got Hel at the front and Goodridge at the back! Quite a few people recently fitted HEL and the quality seems good.

Something doesn't sound right to me. Once they are bedded in and warm/hot they offer a lot more initial bite than the stock pads. iirc. This "initial travel" is either the pads not bedded properly or something else like air in the system. Pedal should only start "sinking" under hard braking when they start to fade. They'll be smoking at that point. I get this issue with my cosworth brakes. Driving on public roads they dont get enough of a workout and come the trackday, it takes me the first couple sessions to get the initial sharpness back. Not saying that it the issue, but I distinctly remember loving the initial bite they gave (once bedded in), and going back to stock after them it felt distinctly lacking in bite/friction and a lot more pedal travel to lock the wheels.

Looks good mate

I wouldn't recommend a race fluid like that unless you like flushing it through often! What people often overlook is that the high temp brake fluids tend to have a higher absorption rate of moisture. @Neal its down to the viscosity and boiling point: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DOT_5.1 I'd suggest a dot 5.1 will be fine and can go 2 years between services unlike race fluid. I use Motel Dot 5.1 currently.

The milltek resonated is definitely not as quiet as a q300

That's what I was hoping. I suspect it'd be OK for many, but with the TD UEL (can't compare with any other setup) it's still quite boomy under 3k rpm, especially in the narrow streets round my way. It would be fine if I didn't daily it, but the loudness down low gets tiresome when on the commute, especially on the way out of town when it's still cold. If only you'd seen my exhaust thread before buying.

Helmholtz resonators dont kill sound across a broad range, they target a smaller range. They arnt a silencer as such. Measurements I have for the ark grip suggest a 4.5k tuned frequency. This is why I designed my own.. they are much bigger to get down to 3krpms

Glad its finally getting sorted mate. I fancy some tail lights at some point. Valenti ones look good on red I reckon.

Don't the HC800's eat through discs like mad though? Not really. They are still quite soft. The hc800 only last me 2 trackdays and disc wear was less than 0.25mm iirc. Its the clubracers that are hard on the discs but fantastic for the track.