Ade

Jeff got those on my recommendation. They are my favourite "road and track" pad. Just be aware they are more track than road so you'll need to bed them in often to avoid chalk board squeal. They can handle 800C temps before significant fade though and cold bite is decent but not amazing so again be aware of that. Im sure you have lot of experience with pads like this anyway.

Finally a sound clip from my phone. I've got some go pro footage I will upload if the sound is better.

Took some time are the weekend to lift the car up and inspect, clean and protect the suspension components. I was a bit worried about all the road salt that had accumulated so wanted to give it all a good wash and then a spray of WD40 to help protect it. Strut before (well I started to clean it around the bottom before remembering to take a pic): after: They are as good as new after 6 trackdays and about 5k miles. Cleaned them with a strong mix of car shampoo and water, followed by a good soaking and wipedown of WD40 as per Ohlins instructions. Brakes also got a good clean No discoloration after 6 track days and plenty of pads material left. In 2015 I went through 3 sets of pads in as much time! The wheels got some special attention; 1) clean with billburry wash 2) Iron X 3) Clay 4) Wash again with billburry wash 5) protect - used some supaguard wheel protector I had from when the car was new. Seem okay. Time will tell. Also replaced the old TPI wheel nuts with some new ones. These are forged steel triple anodised.

In your honest opinion of reading the ft86club.... If you dont have the correct damping for a given spring rate, you end up with under damped and bobbly ride. Better to have a softer spring and closer to critical damping. People in the USA like very firm springs, here most prefer a bit softer for a daily drive. Most people running tein SRC take their car to the track on a tailor....

A coilover with higher spring rates being more comfortable than stock is a VERY subjective thing. B6 and B8 are valved exactly the same. The only difference is the b8 has a short stroke length.

Thats a very good price for the bilstein b14. Another option if you can get a similar discount is go with the bilstein b6 and keep the teins springs if you are happy with how it sits now.

Pretty much what @Lauren said but a few tools off the top of my head. Its a bit overkill, but I have got a Stanley tool box put most of it in so it doesn't take up much space. Spanners: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm Sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm Racket with a few different size extensions (torque wrench if you have one for checking wheel nuts) Pack of zip ties Various diameter hose clamps Contact cleaner Copper Grease WD40 (or other water displacer) Brake fluid, bleeder hose and and empty pot to put old fluid in Some nitrile gloves to keep hands clean Long nose pliers Wire cutters - heavy duty type Assorted screwdrivers Engine Oil Duct Tape Hammer A few different size nuts and bolts (I started taking this after Kevin lost a bolt in his exhaust at Blyton) M4, M5, M6 and M8 is a good start.

I drive a newish Merc C Class daily. Its an AMG and the handling is not bad at all. I really enjoy chucking it about. The GT is a different animal though, much stiffer, louder and sharper. To be honest I enjoy driving both cars in different ways.

Im lowered 15-20mm at the back and dont have an issue.

When I fitted my coilovers I took note of how little play there is in the handbrake line and disconnect the roll bar so I could see how everything moves under full compression before fitting the coilover unit. I suspect its a result of being lowered quite a lot and hitting some bumps. The cable is being pulled tight like a string and rubbing the bent piece of metal.

All the best chap

Great review Lauren. I plan to have a drive of one at some point. Perhaps when mine goes in for the power steering recall. Glad to hear there isnt a significant improvement. I'd hate to have to remove all my bits and have to put them on a new car! Just my opinion on oil coolers: The ecu cuts power at 140C oil temp. Also the location it is measured is the hottest point right after the oil pump. It gets cooled by the block before entering the crank/bearings. Id say the fact that the ecu cuts power shows the engineers considered oil temperatures and engine damage so they were clearly okay with those sorts of temperatures and using a good 0W20. Just my opinion but unless you like long track sessions an oil cooler just adds another failure point on an N/A car. I ran 4 trackdays where oil was stable at 135-140C in 2015 on completely stock car. Also almost weekly in yhe summer the oil was taken up to 120C+ on hoons. So far I haven't had any issues from doing that.

I used to hit 120C easy on a hoon in a completely stock car. In the summer I'd often get to 130C. On track in the summer hottest I saw was 139C stable.

Does this kit use the standard mocal subaru sandwich plate parts?

This is also very true! @xxJaRxx FWIW the Jackson Racing kit is well tried and tested as per the ft86club thread, so if you are sure centrifugal is the way to go then £3k fitted and mapped is a very good price indeed.

I would highly recommend you drive or get a passenger ride in a few different setups. I thought centrifugal was for me (not saying it isnt for you) but then I drove the hks gt86 and didnt like that all the power was high in the revs. I went with a positive dispacment sc in the end becuase I liked the big engine feel it gave. Its like a stock engine just add 50% torque everywhere. You still have to rev it out to get the best from it. difference is that you can get a move on briskly without needing to go past 4k on the commute.

GPRM had the Kraftwerks Rotrex based kit from the USA.

245/40/18 is 4.3% faster than stock. Combined with a 4.55 final drive it could work well though.... hmmmm

The goodyears are apparently very progressive on the limit.

I agree with @DanJ about getting heat into the tyres and if I didnt like my rims so damned much I would be on OZ ultraleggeras 18x8 225s as well. Having said that, the TMG cup cars run 245 Pirelli slicks on 17x8 OZ Ultraleggera's! It all depends of the stiffness of the sidewall. Yokohama recommend a 7.5J rim for 225/45 AD08Rs..... @S18 RSG @Mark-in-Stoke why dont you ask TD to tweak the throttle map to your tastes guys? I prefer a softer throttle map for track. With 280hp I have no issue kicking the back out mid corner and the smoother throttle really helps feed the throttle in as you straighten the car out. I find I like a soft map for track and a more aggressive one for the road.

Make sure you are happy with the power delivery of a centrifugal SC before committing, also dont believe everything you read on the ft86club! I'd try a few different kits out if you can. I wouldn't touch the Litchfield SC simply because hardly anyone has it so its not stood the test of time IMO. The most popular centrifugal SC kit here i nthe UK is the HKS V2 - fairly cheap and proven to work well. Stick with the stock restrictor for safe power.

Mine are 35 offset front, 30 rear, but obviously half an inch narrower, so we're probably in a similar situation. Well raising 5mm was all I needed to stop it so it might be enough well 6mm less poke. You've got me thinking though as £130 for ps4 in 255/35 looks tempting. 4dB quieter too

I think im only about 20mm at the front. My wheels are 35 offset though, so if it rubbed where I think it was rubbing (I couldnt see any signs) a larger offset closer to stock will help too.

hmmm It might be okay. I had a bit of rubbing under hard tight cornering at the track. I think it was rubbing somewhere on the inside plastic lining when the wheel was at a sharp angle. Had to raise the front 5mm to stop it. The 235/40/18 have a diameter 20mm bigger than stock though, whereas a 255/35 is only 10mm more than stock so might be okay.

Yep i've cconsidered 255s. I can get 255/35 AD08Rs... I wonder fi they will rub though as its a bit tight. I get around 28MPG on mixed driving, but its very right foot dependent!