Ade

Im not going to get into a debate and take this thread off topic. You are happy with your choice and good for you

Yeah its always a problem for 4 pot engines. 100Hz @ 3k rpm is not easy to suppress with small absorption canisters. It is compounded by cabin stand waves too (cabin gain). The half wave length of 115Hz @25C is 1.5meters which is about the distance between our door windows..... Anyone into car audio will know all about that.

I remember the fensport demo car. They had fitted a quiet exhaust (possibly blitz) and the AVO turbo kit. It was eerily quiet as the sound generator was also deleted which is where most of the sound comes from stock. Its true a benefit of the turbo is lower exhaust noise, but then you get that whine from the SC. Each to their own. Its good we have options! Actually that's a good point to make. I can hear and subtle whine from the SC now and its lovely

Q300 is 60mm ID this is 70mm ID. Also the Q300 is quiet everywhere, more so at the top end because of the use of absorption silencers. I wanted more attenuation low down, hence the use of the helmholtz resonators. I spoke at length with Ian, and as per my write up above, originally I wanted a big single box like the Q300 but the sharp 90degree turns are not great for flow so he convinced me to go with the Y design and he can make a big central silencer.

Not sure. The Helmholtz resonators are hollow chambers so very light. It'll be alot lighter than stock. The extra weight will be the mid pipe silencer as that will be full of packing/damping materal.

ah ok so it is a one off then Well Ian is able to make it for you with your choice of tip options. Im just in talks with him at the moment regarding pricing.

The twin back box Y design is the same with 50mm piping. The middle silencer was custom made for me with a bigger silencer and with 70mm piping rather than 63mm piping. They currently offer a 2.5" (63mm) cat back with choice of no middle silencer, a small one or a larger one. Using stock tips or a single wall option on their website. Ian calls this one an extra large middle silencer. The Helmholtz Resonators as per the thread were designed by me but Ian is able to make and fit them.

What RainX and IronX Just ordered some auto bright purple rain thingy stuff.

I though I could see corrosion before, but I scrubbed it with a firm sponge and it eventually came off. Hoping it same is true here.

Funny thing is I should have realised that and I didn't because I have the same issue at the moment. IronX is like the most popular fallout remover.

Pitting? I did use Gtechniqu C5 but it wasnt impressed with the finish. Perhaps my prep was a bit crap. I just cleaned them with the bilburry and dried before applying it.

Hadnt thought about the clay bar! RainX - isnt that for windscreens? I've got some Pro Valet Dragons Breath (names after how it smells). I used it a couple times, but it eats the disc iron like buggary. When I put the car in garage for a few days after using it, there must still have been some of the stuff around the pads as it left proper burn marks in the disc iron. I guess I need to keep it away from the disc and rinse thoroughly!

another pic showing the dirt buildup

P.s. regarding headunits, depending on what you want but the best double din for an active setup is the pioneer avh-X3800 (or the 5800) as it has a half decent dsp which im sure you know is essential for good sound. The 3800 has decent time alignment resolution, 16band EQ (not individual channles though just overall) and built in crossovers so you wouldnt need the mini dsp at all. I almost bought one myself.

We've been talking on talk audio so thought id introduce myself here. Looks like you'll have it done before me as I dont get much time these days to get it all installed.

I found an old log from about at year ago. Not sure how much use it is but here it is: And a 30 min track session at Bedford.

Intake temps will go up in traffic due to heat soak in the engine bay. I think intake is measured at the MAF on your cars which is right above the exhaust manifold, so expect a lot of convection heat transfer. If you guys are using torque, are we all using the same formula? This is the one I use: OBD2 Mode and PID: 2101Minimum Value: -40Maximum Value: 215 (this is just the maximum that this location can support, which does not mean the sensor can read that high)Scale factor: x1Unit type: CEquation: AC-40 (no space between A and C; "AC" is the location within the response)OBD Header: 7E0 (Auto also works, but seems to take longer)

My car when bone stock was the same. In the summer it would hover in the low 100s. So with temps at the moment being 20C cooler, it is not surprising that oil temps are a little lower. I dont think your manifold has much affect on oil temp unless stuck in traffic for long periods of time. At speed I would think the air flow will be enough to minimise heat transfer by convection.

Incidentally is yours bolted in at all, or just held in place by the oil/water lines? Just held in place with the water lines. You need some flex for when the engine moves. If you bolted the laminova there would be no room for flex as there is only a small amount of pipe at each end.

It may well be that the cooler just needs covering for road use and uncovering for track. I know that's what some of the US track users do although a lot of them don't run the thermostat plates. I thought about doing that, but it means bumper off for where I had it mounted. If you plan staying N/A you can get away with putting the oil cooler in front of the coolant radiator, making it easy access.

Should be fairly close to coolant temperature, which is around 90C with the stock thermostat. Yes but the coolant pipe the laminova is spliced into is at the exit of the radiator. I've never measured it myself but it may be cooler than the point where the sensor measures it. If the water coming out the radiator is indeed 90C then the oil should be above that. I can try measuring it with an IR meter when I get a chance.

I think you'll struggle to maintain 95C steady state but high 80s would be my guess.

Nope. The oil lines and laminova don't hold that much anyway. If you wanted to be anal you could change the oil, start the engine and let it mix. Then drain half the oil out and put fresh in using two 5 litre cans. On the lexus lfa I believe they do two oil changes but no doubt that has a few oil coolers...

When oil gets hot it does degrade but most decent oils like milers can handle excess of 150C without damage. The real problem is lubricating the big end shells. As oil gets hotter it gets thinner and the film strength reduces.

Issue with banjo and banjo bolts they cause pressure drop Mishimoto have data on their website about the banjos and pressure drop. Its true banjos dont lend themselves to smooth flow but make them big enough for a given flow rate and the restriction can be made insignificant. Fwiw mocal also do a banjo sandwich plate, but uses M18 centre hole and smaller banjos, so thats why I went with mishimoto because they are M20 banjos. Here's their impreza wrx oil cooler (which uses the same mishi banjos) long lines but a specially designed low loss core. 5psi loss through the lot.