Ade

@AJ124 I'm still discussing this with Hel but I'm pretty sure it'll be a 99°c one If hel plan to use the mocal sandwich plate be mindful that its really tight getting the lines out next to the airbox. I had a few issues. 1) first issue was the t stat bolt was rubbing one of the high pressure fuel pump metal line so I had to grind down the bolt. 2)Next issue was the 45 degree connectors coming out the sandwich plate. If the plate moves ever so slightly they would rub on the airbox. This is another reason I went for mishimoto sandwich plate and bonjo bolts.

Water boils at 100C but still evaporates at lower temperatures - hence why puddles of water dissappear. According to Mocal, 80C is the desired min temp and thats why they normally use 80C thermostats, but its a generalisation.

How much accelerating do you do? Only time mine went over 95c was under acceleration at the end of 50 zones Admittedly I never used to keep much of an eye on it stock as I knew it worked, but when I did log oil temp after 30mins or so would sit in the mid to high 90s. Probably in the summer as car used to live in hibernation through most of winter.

Mines the C43-180. Peak oil temps (after a long track session) of around 110C is pretty low and much lower than a 16 Row air to air gives. Better ducting rather than just putting it in front the water radiator will obviously help though. There are so many variables, im just glad I found a setup I am more or less happy with.

Thats interesting. Mine would sit in the high 90s on the motorway.

That 10psi was at the sandwich plate before and after which includes the restriction of the thermostatic plate, 1.5meters of oil lines and fittings.

I'm aware of that, but as mentioned, Ade had a 99C thermostat on his plate and was still seeing oil temps around 80C while cruising on the motorway. That's a little low for my liking on a daily. I now you think oil to air is the better choice, and for a track it does give better heat rejection, but other considerations are also factors. For instance, aside from better daily temps, a water to air cooler is a much more robust solution; it's much less likely to pick up a pinhole leak from road debris or be damaged in a front end collision. @Ade Am I right in thinking you fitted yours without draining the oil? Also did you use the eye-wateringly expensive Toyota coolant to refill? You don't need to drain the oil just the coolant. It pretty easy apart from getting the coolant pipe back on with the mocal laminova. You can put the same coolant back in, its good for something like 12 years. However after seeing the casting sand from Nigels strip down I decided to change it. I used Millers Alpine Red longlife. It meets all the requirements set out in the car manual. Plus it matches the colour of my car so its a no brainer really 😂 After draining I flushed it out with a few litres of deionised water first.

They're setrab cores and 19 row. What else would you like to know? Is that the 330mm width (600series)?

Depends what the actual pressure drop on our car is though. If its still low enough then will be fine. The air to air radiators drop a lot of pressure. I know the popular 19 row mocal radiator drops about 10psi on our cars. Ideally you want the largest cross sectional area as possible and the shortest length. Oil sits at around 100C on the stock setup, so even with stock thermostat (90C) it will pull oil temps down a tad.

Still takes longer to warm up if the cooler is decent size in cold airflow. Yeap as I said in my previous post, there is a little trickle flow with all the mocal t stats. I know people have had the same issue with the perrin, mishimoto and HKS t stats too.

H&S use the best quality german cats, so cant see them being an issue. Did H&S decline to repair it for free? They come with lifetime warranty.

6 trackdays in 2017? Ade you really are an enthusiast. I wish!

Just a point to make. Some people state side have been fitting the forester laminova and connecting the water lines to the throttle body coolant lines. This is not the proper way to install it and will have a limited affect. You need to install it with a water feed from the block to get enough flow for decent cooling.

The pipes hardly move at all. There is more distance than it looks in the pic though as they sit forward from the belt. Ive done 6 trackdays this years and apart from a banjo started weeping due to under torque after the 1st trackday its been perfect. I highly recommend using torque lock paint for a visual inspection.

Sorry only just seen this. Few things to say about the subject. The cossy thermostat did lower my oil temps a bit. Both when hammering it and when cruising. Roughly 5C. A originally designed an air to air (see my thread) but I had few proplems with air to air cooling: 1) placing the cooler rad infront the intercooler lowers the effectiveness of the intercooler. There isnt much space behind the fog lights either. Hks have pulled it off but haven't inspected one installed on a car to give an opinion. Mine was too snug for me to be to happy about it. Having said that. @DanJ has something pretty awsome planned for his air to air and I ook forward to see it. 2) even with a 100C mocal thermostat the "trickle" flow still cools the oil a tad, but I will say, so does the oil to water if you also have a low temp thermostat as the water sits at 80C. 3) I couldnt bring myself to be happy with the oil lines routing. Paranoid an oil line will vibrate against something and start to leak over time. Why I went oil to water 1 ) I can see all the oil lines from the engine bay for inspection and piece of mind. 2) until the oil is as warm as the water. It effectively heats the oil sonit warms the oil quicker as the water get up to temp much faster. 3) most oem oil coolers these days are oil to water. E.g. the forester oil to water laminova. Downside is cost though. Mine cost about 600 iirc. My advice would be go for the forester oil to water if you plan to stay na or the smaller size mocal if you want to do what I have done, as mine was specd for supercharged car. I see about 110C max on track. I will say my water temps sit a few Cs higher than when I had air to air but still about 85C which is lower than oem. How that helps. Cheers

Maybe its just me but I don't fancy having a rose joints on my LCA and i'm not convinced the SPC will take the abuse I put the car through (without camber changing). So I stuck with stock and live with the 0.5deg camber offset and a mild drop.

ahhhhhh yes of course.

Didnt I buy it off you?

The intake gains you about 5whp according to Perrin: http://blog.perrinperformance.com/3-0-brzfr-s-intake-dyno-results/ @will300 you wont be sorry with those brakes and definitely the right choice using the AP racing discs. Last time I spoke to Martin their blanks were straight vaned which wont cool as well as the AP discs and likely more prone to warp/crack.

Glad its getting sorted chap. Would be good to know what caused the issue.

Firstly. Shit the bed, bad luck Mr Grover! I'm with Lauren and Rob, I doubt it will be the oil. Thin oil actually lubricates better and the only reason you would go to the thicker oil is to increase film strength if you see significant wear. Generally the film strength (for an oil specified by the engineers designing the engine) is an order of magnitude stronger than it needs to be to protect the big end bearings. The dip stick design is so poor on this car. When you take a reading, you are supposed to look at the lower of the two sides for the level. I wonder how many techs have read that little detail in the service manual. Of course you could just be unlucky, and a chunk of dirt or oil filter blocked one of the oil gallerys and caused starvation.

1.6l engine and FWD. Sits high for leg room and space allowing front and back seats in a small footprint. Its nearly a foot shorter and narrower....

You say its a small car.... sure next and a 1.5 ton family car, but until you park next to a car weighing a ton.... such as a new MX5 or a lotus elise... then its not such a small car!

Matt isn't a trader on the other forum either. He's just an engineer and answers questions. He lurks on here I believe.

swap them round and the fault goes away for 10k......