Ade

The offset was a concern for me but there are lots of people stateside running +35 offset that arnt going through wheel bearings in 12k miles and a few trackda. One example is CSG_mike who is very fast (holds lap records at a few circuits) and tracks the car more than once a week (he's a test driver for CSG) and hasn't had a problem with wheel bearings on 17*9 et35 enkies and running slicks!. He specifically made a point that he goes through wheel bearings on his S2000 every year with stock offset. I hope my failure was down to to hitting the pot hole. It was quite violent, I think I remember saying to you I was surprise the rim didnt get bent! However it is also the side that gets loaded the most at the track.... time will tell how long the others last.

That's the problem, there arnt any part numbers from a quick google. As I said when I contacted two different vendors they tried to sell me SNR part R181.19 which will fit, by is the incorrect part.

Mien has about 13k miles on it. I hit a pot hole at a trackday. It was fairly violet as it was under braking. There are reports of people having to replace bearings at ~10k miles though and they claim they never hit any pot holes of mistreated the car ect...

I've literally just changed my front passenger bearing/hub assembly. I searched around and a few vendors tried to sell me the wrong part. I ended up getting it from a dealer. Needs to have an ABS ring. Why would the BRZ one be different? Its a subaru (mostly) anyway. Removing it was fun...I had to resort to the trusty sledge hammer.....

Well OEM bearing manufacturers change all the time. I was looking for a part made by an OEM manufacturer (e.g. SNR, SFK, SPARK, ect) but not specifically the same brand as the one fitted. My dealer couldn't tell me the part manufacturer - because it changes. Parts from a dealer are often expensive (due to markups) and I was quoted £130, so getting one of these parts online can save some £ - SNRs are typically £80-90 for subarus I imagine our cars came with Japanese branded bearings but it changes all the time. Hopefully will find out when I fit my new hub/bearing assembly. In the end of ordered one through the dealer as there is a lot of misinformation going around. Lots of parts fit but they don't have the ABS sensor ring.

Im 90% sure i am in. will book in a month or so as I cant guarantee anything at the moment.

Well you can always get ta used harrop down the line. None of the three tvs designs are going to get you big power btw. All three top out at about 380hp at the fly. Unless you compound charge with a turbo too

Passed MOT with my 10mm short adjuster Sadly the tester highlighted that I had a bit of play in my passenger side front bearing. It didn't fail the MOT because it was very slight but I will change it none the less. I suspect hitting a pot hole at Blyton, under breaking at around 60MPH is what caused it to wear prematurely, as not long after it started hearing a whirring at about 30mph, but I could hear on smooth tarmac and put it down to the tyres and surface. Finding an aftermarket bearing is a pain as there are a number of wheel bearings from other Subarus that will fit but they dont have the ABS sensor ring. I had two difference vendors try to sell me an incorrect part! I could only find one correct part and it was STARK branded and costs more than getting one through a dealer. I pick it up tomorrow....

Headlight Adjustment for lowered cars I didn't like the idea of paying silly money for a couple of ball joints and a linage rod so I decided to make my own from a few ebay parts. The ratio is 1:3 (thanks Nigel R32) so if you lower 30mm to need to shorten it by about a third ~10mm. Hers's the stock vs my ebay special and fitted Ebay parts list: Linkage Rod RH Thread Ball Joint LH Thread Ball Joint Nylock nuts I've only used one nylock nut because I didnt have any left hand threaded M6 nuts, but ideally you'd have one at each end. Total cost ~ £18

I dont blame you for keeping the sprintex, as much as it gets a bit hot on trackdays, the harrop wont give you much, if any, more performance on daily driving and the amount of ££ you'd lose would put me off. Why not get the water injection that mark has fitted to a few cars?

Mine. Lowered about 15-20mm on 18x9 et35

Yeah I know what you are saying, but I cant be bothered to try to argue with them.

Make sure you check dimensions of your current battery and polarity. Most of the battery finder apps give you batteries wit hthe wrong polarity of UK RHD cars. this one looks like its correct (30mm wider than current OE spec which should be fine) http://www.puredrivebatteries.co.uk/e24-varta-blue-dynamic-12v-70ah-car-battery.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwjqO_BRDribyJpc_mzHgSJABdnsFWvL4Lj4XViYEJuFyjNPLTUMYIdlMH2VJ2RMOaE1ufaxoCHfHw_wcB

P.s. i'll probably fit a bosch 70ah battery at some point.

This. All car batteries gradually lose capacity as they age and thus car batteries are generally over sized. I think the GT gets away with a diddy battery by having a 130A alternator. The battery tester checks if all the cells are functioning (voltage) and the cranking current (output resistance). If you have one with a bad capacity, it wont pickup on that. Some dealers are nicer than others regarding this, but every dealer i've approached seems to want to charge me for testing a battery and as soon as I mention modifications that's it.....

No that's not enough. You need to write a 3 page essay on why this is the best kit on the market! Will be good to have another FI car in the mix. @will300 are you considering beford auto in decemebr?

Good stuff. Come one spill, what suspension are you thinking of? Budget? road & track or just track focused? Plenty of info with lap times to back up, on suspension/coilovers over of the ft86club. Everyone loves the CSG spec tein SRCs.

Congrats, you wont be disappointed

@Pitman also has the Essex/AP Kit and I might at somepoint lol.... Not pitman has the ap formula kits unless he's changed it.

If I remember correctly, this was the very first BRZ in the UK too.

LFA had the sprintex and built engine..... I assume he swapped to the HKS SC then as it was a bit of the track car. Those brakes are a give away though. I dont know anyone else with the Essex/AP kits from the USA.

I suspect the stage 2 road is on stock internals but all the others should be up-rated internals. Cosworth did the maths/testing and consider 280hp to be the max safe level for OEM levels of reliability under abuse before the rods get into the "they will break but not sure when" region of cylinder pressure. The joys of sintered rods....

okay might swap the GT for THAT cayman.

Exactly. Doesnt have to be the same type of car, though the new mustang is pretty good compared to the previous model, you still feel the weight though, but that V8......

I don't do that many track days but I've had the car 4 years so in that time I've done quite a few. This year ive only done 4 so far. Can't comment on the hawk or stoptech pads as I've never tried them. Quite a few people like the yellowstuff too.