Ade

@smudge how much power were you making with the sprintex and that ^^ exhaust setup?

Spot on thanks. New thinking (out loud) is to get a massive OEM sized box welded in place of the current twin canisters. Lager volume box should reduce the noise significantly while keeping the 3" diameter.

@Rich @Lauren and anyone else. Do you know the diameter of the pipes coming out of the back box on the Milltek system?

The Q300 is 2.5" (63mm) outside diameter like most other exhausts I think. For some reason Invidia liek to quote the internal diameter which is 2.36" - the Q300 knockoffs however are 2.36" O.D and 2.25" I.D. I've been listening to soundclips. It appears that the Q300 get raspy when paired with a UEL manifold But the Miltek Resonated seems a bit better? or is it just the microphone being used playing tricks. The Q300 certainly has the biggest back box of the lot, so if it is packed well with good quality materials, it should work well to suppress noise.

I don't think there is space. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Is the hks legamax an option? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I tried filling the boot. I hardly noticed any difference, mainly track day tools though so foam might be better. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Sounds spot on. I want some nice noise when going through the gears and then a nice background rumble when using partial throttle on the motorway. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I was under the impression the avo exhausts were quite loud? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Have you ever heard a Cosworth cat back to compare? When I first installed the cossy supercharger before the cat back I thought the stock exhaust was not too quiet! Just needed a bit more rumble on full chat I'd say. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I am mate and would love to come but weekends are off limits these days.

Not when you can get very decent brake kits for far less. I just wanted to point out they are top end products but the AP racing stuff is better value for money. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

For what it's worth the Brymbo TRD kit is the best brake kit on the market. Those monobloc Brymbo calipers cost a packet similar to the AP radical calipers which are also very very expensive single piece ultra light forged calipers derived from a proper race spec caliper Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

6kg is relatively soft so you will still get quite abit of roll. Wills car looked lowered quite a bit so the wheels will tuck right up under the arches. Also as you lower the car past about 20mm the car actually rolls more due to the dropped roll centre. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Yeap I had my car corner balanced and aligned at the same time so hard to say exactly how much it makes a difference to be honest. Cost me £160 to have corner balance, front camber and front and rear toe. Not exactly cheap. You can do a rough approximation yourself if you have a couple of scales capable of 400kg. What you do is weight each corner and work out based on spring rates and motion rations how much you need to lengthen (or shorten) the front passenger and rear driver side to get it to balance correctly.

I would be surprised if they have more travel than the monosports. The flex a can go really low which means reduced damper travel. I would be careful about going up in spring rate as I think these have a soft damping range as it is. You might find you cant get it stiff enough for critical damping at the track. Go for the monosports mate you won't be sorry. Try them as they are and see how you feel? Can always purchase springs later on? You've got 9kg now but the monosports should be a better damper and give a better ride. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Mike I think in the USA they call preload on sway roll bars when its not in the ideal 90deg (or whatever is deemed ideal) location. Its not actually loading the bar - this confused me in the past. Another advantage of adjustable droplinks is if your car is corner weighted like mine, you will have wonky ride heights corner to corner which can load the bar at static. Having adjustable means you can adjust them so the bar is not loaded until the car rolls.

I was trying to focus on technique and consistency so never quite got to the point I felt comfortable all off. If I hadn't lost the morning session I probably would have had a go. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I did intend to have a go with aids off but chickened out. Next time... Deffo want to go back to Blyton. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Using Dan's spread sheet the 5/6kg setup with the stock roll bars is somewhere in the middle of 6/6 and 6/7kg in terms for front to rear roll stiffness ratio. Dan and I were discussing that perhaps I should try a 6.5kg in the rear and see how it feels. Food for thought.... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

itll just take a little longer to bed them in. I went from stock -> ds 2500 -> Mu HC800+ -> Mu Club Racers without issue. Discs were down to 22.5mm after that lot.

its worth contacting tein to see if they can swap them for free, otherwise you'll have to fork out about £150 for a pair.

Blyton Park 30/07/2016 Saturday I was over at Blyton park with a few fellow GT86/BRZ owners. I’ve never been to Blyton before so there was some learning to do, but was a great day. Here's the circuit: The wiggler was a bit of a challenge, touching about 110Mph before getting on the brakes down to 50-ish its tricky little corner, but I found going wide and turning in early to get a drive on exit was the best way through. Port Froid can be taken flat out in a N/A car but I was having trouble judging the speed right, either too fast and over running or scrubbing too much speed as I lifted off at turn-in. The event was organised by Lotus on Track and the GT86/BRZ Owners tagged along as well a a few caterams. As you can see we were over run by Lotus’s…NOT! I think we out numbered them by 2-1 at least. I had some issues in the morning with my car cutting out which turned out to be dirty MAP connection so I only managed two good 20min runs in the morning but in the afternoon I was able to get four good long runs to work on improving sections. I did have racerender on my phone, but I don’t like it in my pocket (too big) and I forgot to get some velcro so I didn’t use it in the end. I did however have a car cam and could measure lap time using the camera footage. Obviously there is a degree of error involved there but it’s a good indication none-the-less. Here's an afternoon session with Lauren and my fasted Lap 1min 15.8 seconds with knightly (Sam) in the passenger seat. Definitely about 3-4 seconds to be had with some practice but I am not unhappy with that time after losing some of the morning session. You can hear me cuss going though wiggle where I lost some momentum in the fastest lap video. I really enjoyed it and looking forward to go back to improve. Thanks to Lauren and Kevin for the passenger laps and those that helped me with the car when it wasn't running.

If your discs have a lip make sure the pads arnt sitting on the that lip otherwise the pads will sit on the lip withminimal contact area and generate hot spots and essentially pad fade. Ask me how I know...... I'll tell you anyway my AP racing discs had a lip I failed to notice and the pads didnt sit properly. So when things got hot the pedal would travel quite far before on the threshold of lockup. I took them out and filed down the edge so the pad sits nice and flat on the face of the disc and the brakes were so good after that.

I think two way is nice if you want to fine tune for the track, but for the road a single (comp and rebound) is probably good enough if it is valved correctly.