Ade

No I havent but i've been in a few cars with B6 dampers (before and after) and they transform the car. The B14/B16 kit looks very nice for the GT86 as an affordable road and track package. I think @Keethos is after something more track focused which his why I didnt mention them.

@Deacon get a micrometer and measure the thickness of the discs. min is 22mm. If they still have plenty of life then dont worry about changing the discs, just makes sure the pads sit flush and not on any ridges created by wear.

They were CSG spec running CSG Mike recommenced street settings. They were firm, no two ways about it. My Ohlins are like butter compared and not bouncy at all at 12 clicks from full firm. People buying tein SRC expect a firm ride and then impressed that it not as firm as they expected but doesnt mean its not still firm compared to a 6kg setup. As much as I think 10kg/12kg would be okay with good damping at Blyton, its not going to give a good ride on pot hole covered roads in the UK no matter what the damping setting.

I wouldn't suggest those to anyone doing mixed road and track use, especially give the budget. I've actually been in a car running CSG spec SRCs. They are very firm and just go bouncy when you turn the dampnig down too far to look for comfort. @Keethos here the ft86 thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64959&page=6 If you had 9kg on the front before then the 8/9kg setup may work. If it doesn't you have the option to lower rates by a couple kg at each end. Just a note on my findings from exploring spring rates. I tried 70N rear and 60N front with my ohlins and I didn't like it. It was just too unstable at the rear end. Some of that might be to do with the fact I am supercharged, but I found the car was a bit unstable when trail braking and I struggled to get the power down on corner exit. I switched back to the 60N/mm springs all round and found that although it understeers a little as I squeeze the throttle, its manageable and you can basically apply as much throttle as you need to push the car out of the corner. Also I can trail the brake much deeper into a corner. It could be just driver skill, but I found it very uncomfortable at the limit. I did do a stead state corner test (slowly increase the speed around fixed radius until one end breaks away) and it was very neutral, but as soon as you left off the throttle the back end wanted to break away and as soon as you apply a tad too much throttle the back end breaks away. With 60N all round the front goes first but using trail breaking into a corner you can keep the nose tucked in and you just get under steer on corner exit. Spring rates arnt everything though. The damper curves and camber play a part as does the scrub radius and probably a million other things like bush deflection and tyre roll over, so what doesnt work for my setup might be fine for you. Even something like 20kg worth of amps and subs in the boot can affect the balance on the limit. With my setup I have +25kg at the front and a bit less at the back due to lighter exhaust, and I have -2.5deg camber up front and -2deg at the back.

Guys spring rates aren't the whole story when it comes to ride. The quality of the damper plays a big part in that. I didn't know Mike had the monosports. Would have liked to compare to my Ohlins. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

They have a large damper range so can be set very stiff at smooth tracks or very soft at bumper circuits. http://www.amber-performance.co.uk/product.php?xProd=25303 Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

If you budget is 1200 I would seriously consider tein monosports for a little more. 8kg/9kg rates but you can fit 6kg/7kg without needing to revalve. These are a monotube and aimed at road and track use. I don't think it's spring rates thats the problem. I think 10-12kg would be fine at Blyton but it's the damping that is pushed and lower end stuff will struggle over rough surfaces when set firm so you have to soften them off. The TMG cup car runs up to 18kg on the back and 16kg on the front and that's a car designed for the nurburgring which is very rough. Difference is those cars have £7k worth of Ohlins ttx36 Motorsport dampers. There are some good reviews of the tein Motorsport on the ft86club. Another option is the hks coilovers but the 6kg/4kg setup will likely understeer a lot, so you could go 5kg all round but might be a bit soft IMO. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

In Tapatalk I could only see two of the videos so I have separated them out.

600+HP M3 yes please!

Pretty cool video for the Harrop technical details:

Still waiting for them to release the 2016/17 user manual but here is the latest: http://www.toyota-motorsport.com/motorsport/downloads/gt86_cs-v3/V3_user_manual_EN.pdf

Few good videos on chassis setup i've been meaning to share:

The innermost is the stiffest setting. Think about if you were trying to twist the bar. It would be easier with more leverage from the outside. Here is a copy of the roll bar setup in the TMG CUP GT86 user manual:

The straight cut slots help with stability in the wet. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I'd love to see a nice long tube manifold to rival the likes of the "ACE header" manifold and the Cosworth/nameless manifold. Oh and for a tenner please

I like these pads a lot as a dual road and track pad

So is yours suffering fro the same issue? You're at Fensport right now arnt you? Edit* seen you have the same issue on the other side

Looks like a Tomei copy to me.

@GT86-Ian Thanks for this

Once you've popper your uprated Damper cherry there is no going back. Went out in my friends IS250 today after he fitted Koni Sport Dampers and Tein lowering springs. It rides so much better that the stock setup. Firmer but much better damping and not jiggly at all. I've got a W204 C Class. I used to think it was good (It was compared to stock GT86 setup) but since putting coilovers on my GT86 its really highlighted the lack of damping quality from the standard OE bilstein shocks. The Koni damper and spring combo is £550 too! talk about bargain.

Its almost as if the soft rubber is being turned up and trying to folder over. Could be under braking? Do you use the pedal dance or 5 sec button press?

Sorry missed the leaded edge comment. That is a bit odd! Perhaps its the way the tyre is designed with a hard rubber on the leading edge.

It looks like melted rubber being pushed to the back of the edge. I've got -2.5 up front and the outside edge still takes a beating at the track (6kg front and 7kg rear springs). Guys in the state run -3degess but that not very street friendly! Best to measure temps across the tread bloc and adjust pressures to get them as even as possible.