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Does that cause the traction/stability light to flash (even when TC is off)? I believe so. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Yes exactly. The torsen LSD only works properly when both wheels have sufficient grip. In the worst case if you lift a wheel it's essentially an open diff. At that point the ecu applies the brake to the spinning wheel and transfers the power back to the wheel on the ground. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Great pictures @will300 Gutted I missed the Litchfield SC'd car. Would have liked to get a closer look at that installation.

what it also means is that you are compromised, you only have 1 damping setting for all occasions Indeed. You can't have your cake and eat it at this price point [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I've always been a fan of Bilsteins. These look to have plenty of damper stroke which is important if you run a lowish spring rate. They don't come with top mounts or adjustable damping. What that means is you get a very nice quality damper for a reasonable cost.

Stock is 120NM. I tend to do mine at 100NM as I noticed with the TPI wheels nuts they are a bugger to get off when done up that tight.

That is a vary soft rear rate. Stock GT86 is 3.7kg rear spring. I'll see you late and hopefully we can have a chat

I went from a 18.8kg stock wheel/tyre combo to a 19.8kg (8.4kg wheel, 11.4kg tyre) and didn't really notice the difference. Rotational Inertia will be higher as they are 18x9 wheels and wider tyres but I couldnt feel much difference. Tyre pressure and ambient temps have a much bigger effect on my AD08Rs.

I've been looking at the 1.5way diffs. Any particular reason you went with the kaaz?

Looks good. Who did you go with to do the coating?

How much are you lowered over stock? Regarding roll bars, you might be talking about Stu who did some testing of different roll bars but that was stock GT86 suspension. The ideal bar(s) will depend on the suspension setup. With even spring rates, I would stick to the front 20mm and rear 16mm adjustable whiteline bars set to full soft. This adds roughly proportional roll stiffness front to back so shouldn't affect balance too much but will give less roll which is the goal.

They are moving it to the tmg v3 car too I believe as a purchasable engine package.

I suspect this is 230hp. I remember reading somewhere about the changes but can't find it now. What I remeber was a new pistion design that gives higher knock resistance and an increase in compression ratio. Also revised cams with more lift. Combined with a racing ecu and custom software with a full race exhuast i can easily believe they could add 40hp to the engine with those mods!

@Deacon - do you have any specification for bump travel? I've got a suspension spreadsheet for bump and droop calculations and @DanJ has a niffty roll stiffness spreadsheet that includes roll bar calculations so you can make sure you keep the roll stiffness distribution front to back the same as you move around the spring rates. You'll quickly see, that a 5kg F/R setup does not have the same roll stiffness balance front to rear, as a 7kg f/r setup for example. PM me if interested.

I agree with Jeff, the extra travel isnt that beneficial one most tracks. I mean I haven't yet hit the bumpstops hard on my Ohlins at the track which are travel limited for fast back roads really. Its the dampening quality that gets you the extra grip. I think external reservoir is a moot point really for race events. You can buy a cheapish set of BCs with external reservoirs but the valving is not the same as these Motons or the Ohlins TTX stuff. Better to put a price limit on the suspension rather than banning external reservoirs in my opinion. p.s. roll is not a bad thing and neither is a soft spring. Most aftermarket coilovers, expensive stuff included, have the spring rates they do because they are travel limited. Sure if you are running 245 Pirelli slicks then you need a firm spring like 10k or so (TMG race car for example) but normal road legal semi slicks and lots of damper travel, 7kg will likely be more than enough spring. @Deacon - pics please!!!

The quality of the damper valving on a track will be the main performance enhancement. The damping itself will likely be in the range of something like the Ohlins road and Track, but with the advantage of more damper stroke and two way adjustable, both add significant cost to the damper and the two way adjustability (that actually does something) will allow you to really dial them in to the particular track/surface.

These are close to proper motorsport items - i'd have had them if I didnt already have the Ohlins. Bargain at £2500. They are "off the shelf" items that have a lot of clicks for a large damping range to allow a large range of springs. So its up to the end user to pick spring rate and dial them in properly. Pretty much all Motorsport level dampers are like this. The remote canisters main purpose is to allow more suspension stroke which is where these will really excel - more stoke allows softer springs because you don't rely on a firm spring to stop it hitting the bumpstops. Not more hitting the bump stops all the time on bump back roads The soft helper springs will give a bit more droop too. I would love to know how much damper stroke they have, but looking at the images it looks like tons.

Ahem to that. I soaked the buggers for a day or two prior to attempting to remove.

I'm in the same boat. If I tilt the seat back to my desired position to give headroom wearing the helmet and have the seat in a comfortable position for my legs for fast driving, my wrists are nowhere near touching the top of the wheel which is my preferred position. I need to move it about 30mm towards me for it to be a nice fit.

If you have some used ones bare in mind when switching pads that it takes a while to bed in the new compound. You'll effectively have some of the K sport pad compound on the discs and then changing to DS2500 pads. Expect them to feel a bit weird until properly bedded in.

I got more than 3 laps, but my car was N/A and on primacies at the time. The supercharger and semi slicks on your car put a lot more pressure on the brakes so I can see how it'd be easy to overheat a set of DS2500. I liked them but prefer project mu HC800+ on stock brakes. Since you have bigger discs (more thermal capacity) the DS2500 might hold up fine for you.

Ps brake fade is when the coefficient of friction drops off due to high temps. Brakes still work but you need more pressure. In extreme cases your pedal can hit the end stop and still not produce enough pressure to lock the wheels.

I really liked project mu hc800+ for rosd and track. Ill be trying them on my AP racing kit after I finish the streetmasters.

What kind of pads are those k sport pads? If they are a street compound then it might be pad fade.