Ade

I definitely had a good Q6600. It ran on very low voltage from the factory so was able to up it to 1.6V and overclock the crap out of it. When I got the GXT 870 on later games like far cry 3 and Crysis 3 I was seeing +30% frame rate in some instances running 3.8ghz vs 2.4ghz

They are light but i would expect the tranny will add a bit more too. Can't really complain when you've got 450hp though.

Nope but the Gym membership should have you covered for toilet and showers.

I wish I had know that before I ordered the DBAs! Yeah did look up tightening torques for some bits but most of the time (e.g. the manifold itself) you cant get the torque wrench in there to do all of them anyway so a degree on mechanical sympathy is required. The only place I ended up using the torque values i'd looked up was the injector rails when I swapped them over. I've read a few sc'd people state side had breather hoses pop off. I've used clips on all the breathers except the one the connected to the underside of the intake tube prior to the throttle body. Mainly because its a ball ache to get to it, but its got one on the other end where it goes into the block under the A/C pump.

Whats the part number for the rear discs? I ended up buying the dual drilled DBA discs which are not cheap at ~£260

I'll email it over to you. I'll say now that they are not like the Edlebrock basically spoon feeding it to you but in my opinion the Cosworth instructions give you as much has you need (if you know what you are doing) without giving you 3476 steps to removing an injector hose. For example here is what it says about removing the inlet manifold: 1st job is to remove inlet hose And then remove the injector heat shields from both sides to access the manifold bolts Disconnect the fuel fitting from the 3 pipes on the inner wing / fender and plug with appropriately sized bolt or dowel to prevent fuel leaking whilst working Disconnect the throttle body, purge valve and pressure sensor wiring Disconnect the brake booster, and breather pipes - unless the car is automatic, in which case the original brake booster plumbing is to be left as standard Undo inlet manifold retaining bolts and withdraw the manifold assembly

So it was your car he was talking about at Bedford I like the idea of accusump. Usually the issue is dealing with the extra oil added to the system when the accusump does its thing, but I think Mark has a way around that. I am thinking about making a oil pressure logger so I can evaluate it after sessions. Not the easiest watching a pressure gauge while hooning around the track

Looking forward to see the oil cooler setup. I probably spent 20hours installing my cosworth setup. I did it on my own in small ish chunks and spent some time cleaning the green goo. Fingers crossed BCS get mine back to me soon.

I remember seeing this for sale! Good to see someone taking it on my the balls. My wife doesnt like the spending habits or me going on about it! lol

Cool. Looks like you've made some good progress. How are the calipers?

Hi Ed. Are you still doing track days? Group of us at Snetterton on the 27th April. There's a thread in the evens section. Well there are plenty of ppl stateside using semi slicks and slicks without oil issues. The TMG racecar also doesn't have any sump modifications as far as I could tell; same pt number for the sump as stock and I had a good look at Oulton Park. Looks like the baffle toyobaru designed in, does a decent enough job. From what ive seen on the US forum it's only when you start adding downforce with slicks that oil starvation is an issue. Having said that. I have a pressure guage in the drivers side vent to keep an eye on it. Also I did fit the Moroso baffle as a safe guard. Turns out there are consequences for everything and the Moroso baffle itself caused oil starvation at sustained high rpm. Both Fensport and Abbey have now modified the design to stop the pressure dropout at high revs. I'm thankful I fitted the Defi Pressure Guage and discovered that fault.

I drove the HKS car with the V1 and V2 SC kits fitted. The centrifugal SC doesn't have the low end torque so you do have to rev it which might suit B road driving enjoyment if you like to rev the nads off it. At the end of the day though, i'll be much more rapid whatever kit fitted, and you find yourself having to back off more often as hitting a ton is achievable in a relatively short time. Mind, if you are used to a TVR then you'll know all about that!

My honest opinion is that the car N/A has more than enough power for driving twisty B roads. I just find I have to back off way earlier now with the SC, which in many ways makes it less enjoyable. I agree the twin screw kits produce torque everywhere (Sprintex/Cosworth/Harrop/Edlebrock) and feels like a bigger engine, it very nice to be able to get the kick in a higher gear. Regarding reliability. Well we know the Cosworth package has had a lot of proper engineering time and I reckon the Harrop has had a decent amount too. The benefit of the Cosworth IMO is the maps were produced in conjunction with the kit on the engine dyno (about 300 hours of testing with >100 being at full whack) and over about 10k miles of road and track testing. That is worth a lot IMO hence why I didn't mind paying £500 more for the Cossy kit. The tune doesn't have to be a base tune either, Matt@Cosworth will even look at logs and tweak their stage 2 tune for your car if you are able to get him some datalogs and upload your own tunes. Although Cosworth don't officially give a warranty. I am pretty sure (like 99.99%) if there was an issue on my car, they'd sort me out if it was not to found to be a fault of my own. e.g. a blown rod - which is the weak point of this engine.

Dynnargh dhis ! I'm originally from Bude but now live near Cambridge. A39 Bude-Barnstaple is still one of my favorite driving roads. I rarely bring the GT86 to Cornwall unfortunately as its a bit small for wife, child, luggage and cat.

Yeah they can be pretty decent in the wet, but they are very quick in the dry for a "summer" tyre. Only thing about them is they need a bit of heat to grip really well being a ~200 tread wear tyre. Never had them myself, but I had a passenger ride in Stu's car (ex forum mod on the otherside) with both the stock suspension and Ohlins. My god they grip when warm. I think they were AD08 not the AD08R which as about 1second slow over a 1:20 lap than the AD08R. If you believe the below video the AD08R dropped the lap time from 1:25:5 on primacies to 1:21:8 on the AD08R Also here is a comparison of most extreme performance tyres in the USA. Most of these are not available in europe due to regulations forcing the use of reused oil. Anyway you can see some footage in the wet WARM weather.

I assume you are talking about the small bottle there? Sounds like it needs applying very liberally.

New arrivals today :-)

This is a cool thread. Gone are my days of gaming for hours (have a house to work on and a 5 month old son to look after) but my last setup was rather simple compared to these setups, but I enjoyed it: Case: Gigabyte - cant remember the model Board: gigabyte with up rated heatsink fans. Was running 380Mhz (1520Mhz) FSB CPU: Intel Quad Core Q6600 with a thermaltake frio cooler running at 3.8Ghz (48 hour stable running prime 95) RAM: 4GB corsair, with heatsink and additional cooling fans. GPU: Originally a GT8800 then changed to Nvidia GTX 870 (2GB) overclocked a bit too. Monitors: 27" IPS Not sure on brand but I think it was NEC Sound-Card: Asus Xonar 7.1 Headphones: Astro Gaming A40 I also had a laser gaming mouse, again gigabyte I think.

I like the look of that must.... resist....urge.....to spend more money on car.

Thanks for the heads up. I will be sure to try to do it in small segments I can keep track of. Is a 15ml bottle big enough for 4 wheels? Not cheap this stuff, but I bought it on @rob275 advice. Edit - they only recommend 15ml up to 17"

Some more bits arrived. 3 litres of gear oil for the transmission, a litre of top up oil and a spare half a litre of brake fluid. Some wheel nuts for the new alloys Some Gtechniq C5 Wheel Amour to try to protect the rims from all the track day brake dust.

Spent my lunch break cleaning up the old discs and mounting the refurbished disc bells. I didnt bother with the disc face as they will be cleaning up by the pads soon

Yeap they should be and I am hoping the brakes will be fitted too. They are getting wrapped in Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R

If/when I do the manifold ill be asking Hayward and scott to make a custom catted front pipe with as many or big silencers as will fit!

I dont think a quieter than stock front pipe exists. JDL do an "ultra quiet" front pipe but what they really mean is quiet for an uncatted frontpipe.