Ade

The standars brakes are actually off a subaru wrx and have no problems on the road with 300hp and a mild pad upgrade. The suspention is also excellent for what is it and can handle a grippy tyre very nicely. Most poeple only change to colivers to reduce the arch gap. On track then yes everything is stressed harder. I ran stock brakes with project mu clubracers and couldn't fade them after 30mins. More of a race pad though so you'd expect them to be amazaballs. For a road car all is recommend changing when adding the SC kit is a mild pad upgrade to handle a bit more heat before fade, decent tyre like PS4s and change the oil to 0w30 millers nanodrive. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

See its stuff like this that winds me up. Its utter lies. On a proper calibrated engine dyno they made a bit more than 230bhp. That same engine stock tune, stock exhaust made 193hp. You cant compare a rolling road to a multi million pound calibrated to British standards, engine test cell. Those cells will give you the same results every day/month/year because all fluids and air is controlled to British Standards and the dynomometer is calibrated regularly to account for drift over time and usage. Rolling roads are for comparisons and nothing more.

Exactly. We know people have been fine with stock oil on semi slicks but reducing the change of oil gonig up a breather is also a useful feature of this plate imo. And I can run used btcc slicks (can get them £100 a set) with some reassurance!

The WRX 2 pots are exactly the same size pistons as our stock floating caliper, so wont change bias.

Yep id agree that if you a budget conscious, want that extra finger and dont mind a bit less comfort then the tuned UK spring might be worth a go.

The problem with lowering the car too much on stock dampers is the bumpstops. They are long and progressive so with a 50mm drop you are well on the the bump rubbers even at static. Id say tein flex A would be the best low cost option as they dont sacrific bump travel to lower the car and can be had for less than £800. Ive got Ohlins myself and love them, but they dont go -50mm out of the box without changing the top mounts. Im sure I dont need to say but lowering the car too much, especially the front, has a significant affect on handling. The front being a strut, once you lower to the point where the lower arm goes past about horizontal, you gain camber as the car rolls into the corner and you give up cornering grip essentially. This can be helped with roll centre adjustment kits but im not sure how much they help. To put this into perspective, I was at a toyota trackday at Outlon Parlk a few years back and there was a car on eiback -50mm springs. Despite being fitted with wide V105s I could hold the same steady state corner speed on primacies in a completely stock car. Anyway with that sacrifice in mind , flex A are what id choose to lower the car as much as you want.

Nice choice of parts Ross. Glad you put some decent coilovers on it this time.. you can't have your cake and eat it [emoji23] Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

It shouldn't make a difference if you let go of the wheel should it? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Does the car go straight under hard braking? Also what surface are you testing on? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Mine has read between 80-83dB the last three trackdays. Was 82dB at Bedford and 82dB at snet in march. Static. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

You removed a Cat didn't you after the one in the manifold shat itself? My static readings have varied by ±3dB at trackdays as there are many variables. Both my H&S and cosworth cat backs got about 5dB louder when hot vs warm. So depending on how long the drive was to the trackday and how I drove there (Bedford I tend to have "fun" on the way there) is one variable that effects the static noise test.

There seems to be a noise disparity between TD setups here. Lauren's is full decat yet 6dB quieter than Daniels which has the stock frontpipe and cat still in place. Lauren's is also quieter than the TD turbo setup by 6dB which is odd as turbos do tend to quieten things down a fair bit. Is Chappers onto something....

94dB is not bad with a manifold change tbh

Sorry I just dont believe its 90dB. Few weeks ago at Bedford @HariboPenguin (I think) had a similar setup and was getting noise warnings. Also 10dB is twice as loud to the ears roughly.

Manufacturing tolerances play a part. Not all cars are equal.

Does it still have the stoptech front and rear brakes? Thats worth a mention if it does a they are £4k new!

I was tempted but ultimately decided the money could be better spent elsewhere. You'll find on some corners stock gearing is better and vica versa. @DanJ has one on his Harrop supercharged BRZ.

I dont think that is the same caliper as the STI brombo caliper but could be a good option. Id want to know piston sizes just to be sure though.

Stock brakes on an N/A car are fine for sprinting and short track sessions. Especially if you have disc with better cooling. But with +50% power and the desire to stay out on track for more than 20mins I found I was eating though pads (or discs or both) at an alarming rate. My HC800+ lasted two trackdays before they were finished, then moving up to clubracers they ate through ~0.5mm of the disc per trackday! The heat led to one of the piston leaking fluids eventually. Now with the AP 355x32mm disc I can run a soft, quiet "street" pad and do 30min sessions without fade or burning the caliper paint and losing scene points.

Will be good to see it finally finished! For a while I thought this may go the same way the spit roasted GT86 did....

Stop being pedantic. The front brakes on our car are pilfered from the WRX anyway. Its the AP racing kit for the Subaru WRX STI. AP only made one kit with that size disc and using the CP7040 caliper. https://www.apracing.com/product_details/performance_upgrades/factory_big_brake_kits/subaru/new_age_shape_and_n14_(01-2014)-front_6_piston_kit_cp7040-1001-information_only.aspx I have a spreadsheet with all the brake bias calculations as well comparing this to the "official" AP kits for the GT86 and the "unofficial" Essex kits as well as others.... The Official AP kit with 350x32mm disc uses the direct replacement to the CP7040; the CP9040 forged caliper. Its has exactly the same size pistons and therefore bias.

That is the exact kit I have and should fit straight on with the exception that the bleeders/crossover tubes will need to be swapped as its a trailing caliper on the WRX vs the 86. It's the same kit as the cosworth one as well. If that's not enough the pistons sizes are exactly the same as the official AP kit using a 350mm diameter disc. So bias will be approx the same as that. It does move bias forward a little bit but I really don't think it's a worry. You can always run a more aggressive pad the back if you want to move it back a bit. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I have used it to remove light swirls/scratches from a headunit display and also the clear plastic in front of the speedometer but they were very light scratches caused by cleaning (not me). Could give it a try. It will require a lot of elbow grease.

Thanks its been a fun journey. I have the Defi Racer Red oil pressure guage. I only have the moroso a week. It casued oil starvation simply by holding revs above 6krpm. Basically its a piece of junk IMO. Before and after that I just had the stock sump and made sure it was topped up before a trackday. I fitted the cosworth item as it was cheap and had been tested on their dev car for two years prior to release. One day I might run slick tyres....

Double post