Ade

I agree but they all contribute. Its 20hp more according to the video. The semis and wing contribute because of power out of the corner. I had the trouble at Bedford. I spent most of the straights catching up to slower cars just because they were able to get on the power much earlier. Anyway, hopefully Dan and I will be able to see at Snet. Harrop and Cosworth are similar power so if it makes that much difference as per the video he'll be able to drive past me down Bentley. I'm very interested

The MCR car has more power, semi slicks and rear down force though!

Bump. Cheap trackday (£139) at a fantastic circuit. 5 of us confirmed so far.

Area under the curve. Putting the gears closer together increases the average power output by the engine closer to max power.

It worth pointing out you wont get the same advantage as adding 14% more power. Its all about keeping the engine as close to possible to outputting maximum power (area under the curve). By having closer gearing you are essentially increasing the average power output by the engine as you go through the gears. Dan's spreadsheet showing tractive effort shows how it works nicely. Looking at 65mph with the 4.67 FD you are in 3rd and putting down 4700N. With the 4.1 FD (stock) you are in 3rd putting down 4100N. 15% more torque than stock. But the shorter gearing has the consequence of having to shift up early. Looking at 100mph with the 4.67 FD you are in 5th and you are putting about 3100N whereas with the 4.1 FD you are in 4th putting down 3500N. 11% less torque than stock. Other pros and cons include the right gear selection on certain corners and the power delivery of the engine itself. Plenty of times I've wanted slightly shorter or longer gearing on track.

With the 4:67 the cars still got a top speed of ~150mph which is probably faster than you'll reach at most circuits. I'd have liked this at Bedford as I was hit 136mph rev limit in 5th right before the braking zone.

Quite tempted by the 4.67

Brake Bias Calculations So the RR racing sport performance rear brake kit comes with Wilwood BP-10 pad compound and i'd rather not have to waste a perfectly good set of pads if I can avoid it. Here's the friction profile ~ 0.4-0.45u I quite fancy the Cosworth Streetmaster pads at the front as they are cheap at £120 for the CP7040 AP caliper I plan to use. These have a pretty flat 0.5u from cold to 500C. I decided to do a bias spreadsheet to see the effect varying pad mu has on brake bias. Obviously this doesn't include temperatures but I do plan to update with temperature data after i've had the setup on track. The numbers seem reasonable, but if anyone thinks I may have done something wrong, please drop me a PM and i'll get it sorted.

looking forward to see this in the flesh.

Yep as discussed on the other forum, about £400 but still the Cosworth manifold is £1500 which is excessive given the gains. Same goes for the ACE in my opinion. ~£1400 with ceramic coating. fudge that.

I've just found a cosworth/nameless knock off for $500! http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLM-Power-Driven-Scion-FRS-Subaru-BRZ-2013-LONG-TUBE-HEADER-/141646400366 If it is identical that is a bargain!

Yes the primaries don't look particularly big so smaller piping could be part of the cost saving. No mention of stainless steel either?

Back on topic, talking of cheap manifolds. https://www.powerflowexhausts.co.uk/toyota-gt86-and-brz-performance-manifold-with-sports-cats £289 with a 200cel cat!

There is just not enough data available to prove it. For a start the mishimoto website is wrong. The OEM thermostat starts opening at 90C and fully open at 95C. I was seeing around 93C on track. It doesn't tell you anything about the operating temperature either. The double spring will likely give a progressive opening, rather than a linear response. At least with the Cosworth part it gives the correct information and tells you the operating temperature. Directly from the Cosworth website: • Cosworth Low Temp Thermostats compared to other brands have the ability to precisely control the flow of coolant when the valve opens. • Inferior brands allow the coolant to surge thereby causing unstable temperatures and even temperature fluctuation that can cause severe engine damage and make it difficult to properly tune or calibrate the engine •Cosworth opening starts at 76oC (169°F) and is fully open at 90oC - Engine running temperature is 80-82°C (176-180°F) •OEM Opening starts at 90oC (194°F) and is fully open at 95oC- Engine running temperature is 90-92°C (194-198°F) • Reduced operating temperature improves both volumetric efficiency and knock limit For the sake of £20 i'd go with the one giving the correct information. I doubt we will be able to agree on this, so lets just end it here. People can read these comments and make their own decision.

This isnt the place to get into it but the stability of the thermostat does make a difference and that's my reason for paying an extra £20 for the Cosworth part. But i'm also a fan boy (I like to think for good reason)

That tells you nothing other than the temp it starts to open and temp it is fully open. Lets say its partially open at 80C and you start driving rapidly generating a lot of heat. If the thermostat opens too much it can over compensate and drop temps rather than regulating them. You end up with some oscillation as it opens and closes too much and not regulating the temp very well. A good thermostat will be specifically matched to the coolant system to avoid this issue. I suspect the Mishimoto one is generic and the Cosworth one is better calibrated to work with the FA20. But that is just an assumption. Only way we'll really know is get them both on a test bed and its not really going to happen.

On track days I get about 10-12mpg Fun Road driving 20-23mpg Motorway cruising at 70mph 35-38mpg

What was power like before all the mods?

TBH I think the 1320 looks decent. Primaries are a good diameter and length wise they are okay. It'll be on my list when my stock manifold pops. I'd think about ceramic coating it though if you lose the stock heat shield.

It doesn't switch on and off it start opening at 76C and fully open at 90C Its how the thermostat reacts to temperature changes. If it opens too much when it detects heat, it can over cool. Then if it closes too much and under cools and so on. Oscillation. Fair point back on topic

Where did you get the transient response specifications? I couldnt find them anywhere. If you look at the mishimoto themrostat install video on youtube you will see it does have the double spring. The rallysport cosworth unboxing show it to be a single spring item as per the pics I posted up

A thermostat is not just a thermostat! Transient response one important part. You don't want the thing over cooling or worse oscillating trying to find an equilibrium point. As I said they might be the same, but I wouldn't take the risk for a sake of £20. The Mishimoto stuff seems good quality though. The sandwich plate I have is very well machined.

Anyone running AD08Rs on an 18inch rim?

I don't think it is the same if you compare the images. I might be wrong though. I'd go Cosworth as its a trie and tested part and well #becausefanboy Mishimoto: Cosworth: According to Matt (Cosworth Engineer - you might know him as 350matt in the TVR world) the thermostat, which drops engine temp by about 10C, gives more knock headroom and when the timing is mapped accordingly, you net about 3hp. #everylittlecounts The stock air box is good for 350hp. Any induction offering make power by tricking the ECU into thinking less air is going into the engine than actually is by messing with the airflow around the MAF, and thus makes it run a bit leaner. A re calibration of the MAF sensor and all those gain are lost on an N/A car.

I think your best option here is a cat back, remap and air filter. Low temp thermostat is also a good option. Add a manifold to the mix if you want to spend the dolla for another 5hp and removal of the torque dip. If you go for a catless manifold, you want a quiet cat back exhaust, the Invidia Q300 is one of the quietest. so the shopping list could be: Q300 cat back ~£700 ACE 400 manifold ~£1100 thermostat Cosworth ~£70 Air Filter Cosworth ~ £35 remap inc licence ~£400 I reckon the above would net you 30hp peak but alot for area under the curve. I like the Cosworth stuff and think the mapping is really good, but I am biased