Ade

Red is the best colour I like the look of that android head unit and the focal integration speakers. I assume thats the plug and play IS 165TOY model? I'm quite tempted by this combo as I don't want to add anymore weight if I can avoid it, but the android for running torque would be awesome and better SQ wouldn't go a miss. I presume the USB is not just for music files? I'd want to be able to download log files stored by torque.

Yep so about £330

Hey Lordgrover! Good to see you again! I remember you from the early days on the "other" forum. I was GT86Owner in them days. You must be interested in the new Cosworth TVR I reckon?

My recommendation would be the RCE yellow springs. http://www.racecompengineering.com/index.php/toyota-scion/gt86-fr-s/suspension/racecomp-engineering-brz-scion-frs-yellow-performance-lowering-springs-aka-yellows.html They include shorter bump stops and a decent increase in spring rate which is required with a short bump travel. These are tuned to be 65% critical damped in the low speed region which is a nice compromise between sport and comfort without being too walloy. They are very well regarded http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16102 Eightysix on the other forum also has a set and really likes them. He's also a chassis engineer so knows a thing or two about suspension setup.

The crucial difference betweem the b6 and b8 is the shortened bumpstop. The B6 is the same stock length of the stock shock and has a big bumpstop. If you use 30mm lowering springs with the b6 you'll not have much bumpstop free travel - so the effective spring rate will be progresive in nature. If you use the b8 you get more linear spring travel but a more abrupt bumpstop. Anyone wanting lowering spring need to be mindful that if you shorten bump travel you need to firm up the spring otherwise big bumps will be really uncomfortable and I'd also recommend shorter bumpstops if the spring kit doesnt include them. The first thing people need to understand is reason we have the wheel gap is because the chassis engineers had to design for some degree of comfort with a budget of $100 per shock (and a shock that has to last 100k miles) which means you'll need to use softish springs and alot more of bump travel.

Confirmed on track 1) Rich 2) Ade 3) DanJ 4) Test Drives Unlimited

cool! pun intended!

Harrops my favourite of the two kits and I am sure its more than capable of track abuse. In fact DanJ might have one on track at the Snetterton trackday 27th April. Hopefully he'll do some logging so we can then compare the three kits.

Not at all. I preferred the power delivery of the twin screw so we'll disregard the centri chargers though I think the HKS stuff looks good. I was considering the Sprintex a few years back until I heard about the problem with intake temperatures with trackday driving. The problem with high intake temps is that the air gets less dense with oxygen but also you lose knock resistance. So with increasign intake temps you lose quite a lot of the power you'd have driving gently in the street. Also the Sprintex is limited to about 250WHP. Regarding the Harrop and Edlebrock kits, I think these are pretty decent, especially for the money. I didn't go for these mainly because the heat exchanges didn't look as big as the Cosworth kit. Now more data is available we've seen the Edlebrock runs about +30-35C over ambient on the track. There is no current data on the Harrop. The Cosworth kit as you can see in my chart above runs about +12-15C so half of the Edlebrock. In my mind what this means is that the Edlebrock is a bit limited as running more boost will make IATs a little higher still whereas the Cosworth kit has more headroom if I was to go for a built engine. Also both the Edlebrock and Harrop run about 0.7Bar of boost to match the WHP of the Cosworth kit on 0.5Bar of boost. This is mostly down to the fact that the bigger TVS 1320 chargers are not as optimal in terms of efficiency for a 2.0l engine as the TVS900 used in the Cosworth kit. Bigger is not always better, otherwise Eaton could make alot few variants than they currently do! Another reason I picked the Cosworth is the tune and R&D they did. Here's a response I got from the lead engineer on the Cosworth FA20 programme: the larger R1320 charger will take more power to turn and our analysis showed the R900 to be the optimum for a 2 ltr engine so this may be why it needs more boost to achieve the same power as ours, that in conjunction with the higher IAT's will limit the spark that can be run we also tested our kit for over 300 hours on the dyno which included a 50 hour endurance test on an otherwise stock engine the test was a 1 minute cycle with 45 seconds of full throttle , accelerating the engine through the gears and then allowing 15 seconds fast idle and then repeated that test was then run for 10 hours, the oil changed and we went again until 50 hours was completed at the end the engine was stripped, crack tested and found all parts to be within acceptable wear limits with no signs of undue stress so with our calibration and our kit it should be a reliable 280Bhp Regarding prices for self fit: Cosworth Kit including the Low temp thermostat, Air Filter, licence and Cosworth tune (you'll need to borrow or hire a programming dongle) ~ £5200 Self Fit Harrop kit (SC unit and ECUTEK cable/license + base tune) £4699.74 Edlebrock with ECUTEK tuner cable and base tune £4548.33 I am unsure if the last two include the ECUTEK cable as a purchase or if they are borrowed from Abbey motorsport. Either way you can see the Cosworth is a bit more expensive, but for me the lower IATs and Cosworth Calibration was enough to pay the extra £500.

Yeah I painted them like 3.5 years ago when I got the car and it was never intended to be a track toy. How times change! My 1st 20 minute session at Snetterton a couple years back had them blackened. The Dixcel stuff looks interesting. I think the type RA would be good alternative to the clubracer on primaries as they have a lower friction coefficient. Until the primaries are warm, its a bit too easy to lock up. Problem with the club racers and most racer type pads is that they literally sound like sandpaper and smell even under light braking. Part of the reason I've gone with such a big disc brake kit, rather than a 330mm disc kit, is so I can use mild street friendly pads without getting fade or excessive wear. I had a set of Project Mu HC800+ 800C temp pads and they lasted 2 track days and looked like this:

I've got to say these project mu club racer pads are very impressive. I didn't get any fade all day even on a 32min run which is impressive since I had +50% power this time. These remain the only pads I've tried and not had any fade. They are the only proper racer compound I have tried though and I suspect performance friction or Ferodo ect racer pads to be just as decent in terms of fade performance. Nice bit of surface cracking on the discs. Note the high quality 300C foliatec caliper paint has gone from black to a nice matt grey

@steve_p - we know you love a good track day with new suspension mods

@mike-p @GT86Jay

Confirmed on track: Ade Rich (Furnate)

I am ready to book when someone confirms they are definitely going... @Rich @DanJ - have you booked?

Another nice little subtle mod was installing the Whiteline steering rack bushs.These help reduce the dead spot in the center of the steering with no obvious increase in NVH when driving normally.

Fitted the Whiteline Subframe inserts before the car went to Northampton Motorsport for corner weight and setup. I find really hard to judge these subtle modifications as there are so many positive reviews and often placebo can play a part. I feel with these subframe inserts that the steering is noticeably sharper with small steering inputs and the back end has a little more grip. I noticed that I had more confidence in the corners in the wet.

Pilot Super Sports in 245/35 R18 weigh ~10.5kg so the wheel and tyre combo will be 18.9kg which is pretty much the same as the stock combo. As Dan says, the rotational inertia will be higher though and that's a trade off I made to be able to fit over the AP Racing CP7040 caliper with 355mm disc. If I didn't have the supercharger i'd have gone for a 17x8" rim with 225s as there is plenty of evidence on the ft86club that the faster cornering is not enough to make up for the extra drag from the 245s with an N/A car at the track. But with the FI guys, it appears they can benefit from a wider tyre, probably because they can get more power down out of the corners. Something I had a lot of trouble with at Bedford on primacies The 720form GTF1 17x8 are 7kg

I should have wheels and brakes sorted by then too :-)

Quite possibly. Bargain £139

Hopefully it'll look better with the new wheels fitted. The stock wheels with primacies and 2.5degrees of negative camber really tucks them under the arches. I always liked the forester Oil cooler, but it doesn't cool enough for a car with forced induction and extended track runs. I do like to be out for 30mins+ I will deffo be at Snetterton again, maybe this year. Love the 3 mile circuit.

Thanks. Yes the primacies were over sprung with the Ohlins fitted. Steeps seemed to think I was cornering faster than a stock car on primacies, but I don't think it was very significant. Perhaps though the chicans where the spring rate help faster weight transfer. I ordered a set of 720form GTF2 from Canada last December. I am still waiting for the container to reach the UK. http://www.720form.com/ I've gone for the 18x9 et 35 and at 18.5lb (8.4kg) they a really light for a 9" rim. Regarding tyres, I cant make my mind up whether to go for the road friendly Mitchellin Pilot Super Sports in 245/35 or something a little more tracky, but less street friendly like the AD08R in 255/35 or the Mitchelin Pilot Sport Cup 2s in 245/35

Trackday preparation Checked Coolant and topped up after refilling and bleeding last weekend (I'm now using Millers Alpine Red Coolant which his much cheaper and meet all the specifications). Topped up oil to just above the top dip stick. Still using Millers CFS 0W30 Bled the Cosworth intercooler to make sure there was no air in the system. Installed tablet and setup torque to monitor Oil, Coolant and Intake (post SC) temps and fuel rail pressure. Swapped club racer pads in. Lowered tyre pressure to 30PSI You'll know when I arrive as these babys squeal like nothing on earth. Tablet install

Reserved for wheels tyres

So just before xmas, after coming to the conclusion a bigger disc is required, I picked up a used AP racing kit from a Subaru Imprezza:Test fitting:OEM 295x24mm disc vs 355x32mm AP discI havent weighed it but it felt to me like the AP discs are lighter than the OEM disc. The calipers also felt a little lighter. All the Aluminium bits are going off to be anodised and the calipers are getting rebuilt (with the bleeders swapped over) with new hardware and painted.For the rear brakes I have ordered the RR racing sport rears which is a wilwood 4 pot caliper on the brembo 316mm discs. More to follow once its all fitted