Ade

Some people put shims into the relive valve to keep pressures up.

The Forester FA20DIT pump gear has a tradition profile, similar to the Reimmax but its 2mm wider.... It didnt do a huge amout to oil pressures unfortunately. The forester FA20 DIT also has modified oiling channels.

Cooling performance of the rad will be fine when stacked. 100MPH is 45Meters per second - that a massive amount of air. Having said that, mounting on the side as mark suggested my be the only option and cirtainly wont hurt! Does the HKS kit come with all the moutning brakcets mark?

Lovely! LOL at the comment about hearing it from 1/2 mile away! Look similar to the HKS manifold. In the defence of the Cosworth manifold it does costs £1,554.00 but it is a proper stepped design for max hp gains (I forget the formula but these is one for runner length tuning to give max torque at a given rpms), flow tested for 380HP, and has a very expensive and quality cermic coating on both the inside and out. A top quality ceramic coating costs the best part fo £500! Having said that, there is no CAT in the cossy which also costs the best part of £500! Are you going to re-dyno the car once you get the tune?

Yeah I though the Cosworth Radiator was quite thick/big. I think mounted up under the crach beam like the the link above is the way forward.... Looks like it might just fit:

Perhaps if the air gets trapped in bubbles, the oil will carry it out of the cooler. It cirtainly makes oil changing ALL the oil easier!

Yes in a way it is to increase pressures at low revs by allowing a larger pump gear to be used. The profile of the stock oil pump gear makes for a less linear increase in flow vs revs. So if you have a large gear you can then have say 50psi at 3krpm and 70psi at 7krpm... Looking at oil pressure at low temps, I get like 6-7 bar at a few krpms but it maxes out at 8-9 at max revs. Sorry my guage is metric. Multiply Bar by ~14 to get psi. I dont think it is worth the effort to pull the covers off to fit the uprated pump gear, but if I was doing a build like you nige, I would definetly fit one In terms of what it does to oil pressures, very little if you go by the testing element tuning did. They tried the FA20DIT pump gear which is a traditional profile and 2mm wider. Pressures were not particularly improved at 120-140C unfortunately.

Hi Mark, Oil pressure are not particularly well regulated. At cold (10-15C ambient) I see 120psi with 0W20. Pressures drop gradually as temps rise inline with the oil getting thinner. I do keep meaning to log it properly and graph it.... Perhaps my next track day.... Oil pressure on my car (no oil cooler) is about 10psi/krpm at 100C oil temp - measured using the stock oil temperature sensor. I measure oil pressure at the top gallery next to the AC - this is where the crank is fed with oil. If you put an oil cooler (sandwich plate type) you lose about 10PSI oil pressure at a the same temp. So at 100C I might see 70psi @ 7 krpm / 100C where as with the cooler you see about 60psi @ 7k rpm / 100C. Obviously the oil cooler keeps temps down a bit but the oil pressure drop unfortunately negates some the pressure gain by keeping oil temps down. I think the solution is an oil cooler and a thicker oil. The Team Toyota Motorsport GT86 CS-VS car is recommended to run 10W60 and all the engine has is a custom exaust, tune and low temp thermostat (same temps as cosworth). They do offer an optional Oil cooler and it is not a particularly big one either, mounted smack bang in the middle of the radiator.

Keith what a lovely car!! Light at the end of the tunnel after all

Thanks very much! Looking forward it

The uprated oil pump is not much use anyway. Even the slightly wider FA20DIT pump gear (with a normal gear profile) is only a slight improvement to oil pressures. To run serious power at right revs, the FA20 needs serious Oiling mods to protect the engine long term. Sorry mark. Looknig forward to hear more about your suspension development

Although there are some race cars with a dry sump setup, it seems most motorsports firms are finding an oil accumulator adequate for running slicks and silly power. The main thing they concentrate on is increasing oil pressure. I'd love to know what Nicholson McLaren have done with the FA20.

GPRM probably have an oil accumulator. It not a catch can exactly. Its filled with oil and is designed to feed oil into the system when the pickup at the bottom in the sump is not picking up oil due to large cornering forces. The accumulator is pressurised from one side, so if pressure drops it, as would be the case if it was being starved of oil, the accumulators feeds high pressure oil into the engine. Shamelessly pilfered from google:

No worries Mike. You see, I have an ulterior motive. I want to add a DIY cooler myself, but I wanted to get some measurements of the Cosworth SC radiator so I know how much room to leave I was planning on asking you about it!! One thing to bare in mind about the Mocal Sandwich plate, to be safe you need to file down the edge of the thermostat. It is perfectly fine to do so. Some info here (have a flick through to see the bit you need to file down): http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40187 and here for mounting: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65155 I wouldn't mount it upside down as air can get trapped, but using some soild metal standoff should do the trick. Mocal suggests rubber mounts to avoid harsh vibrations damaging the radiator, which not too many people seem to be doing for some reason....

Mike I think this is what you are after (just did this in 5mins so dont expect it to be 100% correct): You'll need to make some brackets. I would advice again attaching it to the plastic bumper like the Perrin. My vote would go on mounting it up against the crash beam (via some metal tubing or soemthing)

Yes. As discussed above, to keep oil pressure upo at high temps >120C you need a thicker oil. A hot W60 is the sames as a W20 at lower temps. VVTi is the toyota system, our cars use AVCS which is subaru. Its a fairly simple design and has its own pressure regualtion. It relies on the spring force from the rocker to actually move the cam position. All the oil does is lock the cam into position. The reason they spec such a low vicosity oil is for emissions. In the same way the stock brakes are not really upto the job of track work (for more and a few laps), the stock oil is specified for road use. Sure it is unlikely to break an NA car using 0W20 at 140C and 40psi but it might break a car with ~40% more torque or cause undue wear. THe FA20DIT comes with 5W30, an oil to water cooler and a thicker oil pump for a bit more flow. It specifically says in the manual 0W20 is not acceptable. IIRC It has the same bearings on the crank as our FA20. So more oil flow = more pressure, thicker oil = more pressure Clearly subaru didnt think 0W20 was good enoguh for 300HP.* *edit, subaru also made changes to the oil channels on the FA20DIT to improve flow to the bearings*

Any data Jay? TMG are toyota offical motorsport devison and they recommend 10W60 without any engine modifications....

I agree the 10W is not really an issue in the UK climate, especially if it gets garaged. The problem with a 10W60 or 5W50 is that at 100C, your pressure will be very high. So while a W50 or W60 might be optimal at keeping pressure up during for track temperatures (130-140C), you are compromising road use a bit. That is why I think a 5W40 is a good medium ground. Know one really knows how much pressure is required for the bearings to keep their oil wedge but IMO you want to aim for 60psi @ 7k rpms. Not 42psi that I see on track. Also there is a argument that wide weighted oil is not as good as cloesly weighted oil. e.g. 15W40 is better than 5W40

Jay, regarding Oil pressures. At 105C 0W20 will give you 60-70PSI (7krpm) at the crank gallery (next to AC on the top) which is great. See my posts on Lee HKS thead about Oils for track use

The ELF stuff is race oil. It doesnt have the modifiers for long service intervals like normal oil. TMG recommend 1km oil changes - thats alot of dollar on oil! The Millers CFS Nanodrive is okay for long service intervals (I checked with Millers because its is branded as race oil).

Lee - I think you should consider a thicker oil. I know you have a cooler, but there are a few things to consider. 1) Adding an oil cooler reduces presser into the crank (you can measure it at to the top gallery next to AC). Oil can work up to 150C no problem, its the pressure drop as it heats up that is the issue. Adding a coller will keep the oil a bit cooler and more vicous, but the pressure drop unfortunately ruins most gains here. 2) You have more power than stock so it wouldnt hurt to keep the oil pressure a bit higher for the bearings which are seeing ~40% more torque. My oil temp hit 139C on track and oil pressure was 3Bar @ 7krpms. 42psi is a far stretch from the recommended 70PSI @ 100C. I will be going to a 5W40 next oil change. FWIW the TMG recommend 10W60 but an oil cooler is optional.... They recommend HTX 825 (10W-60) http://www.wp-motorsport.co.uk/htx_825_10w-60_elf_lubricants.html Eye popping £242.5 ex VAT!!!! I'd recommend you look at Millers Oils Nanodrive CFS 5w40. I have the same as you at the moment, the 0W20, but its too thin for track use IMO.

On the V3 they are using the 999 Race Pads though... The CSG lot over on ft86club say they are okay on the road, but they also say the 10kg front and 12kg rear springs are okay on the street with the tein SRC. I dont care how good the dampers are (I have riden in a Ohlin TTX car) they will be FIRM.

Thats the guys I bought them from via ebay. They had four sets of front HC+ 800 pads in stock last time I looked

I will second Marks@Abbeys comments on pad deposits. 99% of the time it is pad deposits as its very hard to warp discs these days. I had the same issue with track pads. It happened after I got the brakes to smoke on a track day session. The next session it cleared up after a bit of medium braking but came back worse later ni the day. Bit silly of me to go as crazy on the stock brakes really. Im slowly worknig them down now, but it is going away.

I got them from Ebay for about £130 delivered. Arrived about 2 days after ordering http://stores.ebay.co.uk/hendy-eshop1/Genuine-Project-Mu-Pads-/_i.html?_fsub=7113036014 The HC+ 800 are like the DS2500, just a bit more aggressive when warm but perfectly usable daily IMO.