Ade

I basically found the same I use -15 winter and -12 summer on the road and found it a good balance between a nice ride and not making the steering response too sloppy. Track -8 to -12 generally. I used to go to -5 and noticed I was quicker on -8. Firmer is not always faster!

Those discs look the wrong way round to me. Curve should enter the pad on the inside of the disc as shown below, and chuck the debris out the top. Also the cooling vanes will be in the wrong direction. I think you have reyland discs? so the cooling vanes will be straight, so wont matter in that respect if that the case, but the curves on the surface are still not correct.

I wouldnt worry too much about small deviations, even up to 10% tbh as it all just a rough guide. The bias will be different on track to on the road due the the temperature differentials for example, and if you use a different compound front to back they will have different temperature vs friction coefficient profiles as well. Also more grip will cause more forward weight transfer under braking and coilovers with stiffer springs will also affect that. @DanJ does excellently on the STI brembo setup as did Element tuning is the states when using them on their racecar. Its only for anal retentive people like me that worry about the last few % My setup uses the big AP 6pot 355x32mm disc which moves it forward a few % but then my RR wilwood rears move it back. I think the total is around 9% more rearward than stock.

Its say Sachs performance dampers. Iirc it comes with sachs as standard but perhaps they are an upgrade like a bilstien B6 sort of thing.

CTEK are very good. I have the 3.6A one and within an hour it used to charge my knacker battery enough to start the car. The CTEK chargers can be left connected indefinitely. Its a clever little charger and can be used to condition the battery too.

Great price with some quality aftermarket parts

Sump is steel! Copper washer is fine for that. Good point, I've got some aluminium crush washers but are they required? As I say mine were just flat washers and when I did Tashans diff is am 90% sure it was also a flat washer.

Amazing

Sump drain is indeed M16. I just use copper crush washers bought for a few quid on ebay. 22mm OD works fine. Im sure a standard M16 flat washer would seal but copper crush washers are cheap enough. The diff and gearbox used the same flat washers on mine. I reused them but will replace next time I change the diff and gearbox fluid.

I'll PM you dyno plots

Hi chap, The damping for the MP20 vs the MI20 is basically the same so I suspect you might find -10 clicks too stiff on bad roads with those soft rates. When I say "too stiff" I dont mean in terms of comfort but more so that the damping is a little firm to let the wheels move over bad surfaces and you'll notice a bit less grip in corners compared to softer damping. Try it anyway and let us know what you think. I run mine at -12clicks with 60N/mm F&R and its a compromise IMO for fast smooth road vs crap B roads. If I drove daily id set them to -15. At he track I dont go above -8 these days either. Certainly -5 clicks feels is too stiff on my spring rates at the track. Perhaps its my stiff side walled AD08Rs but I found more grip at -8 than -5. Sure you get a more satisfying feel with more damping, but I feel that a bit on the softer side is better on mine. RCE in the US tried 8kg F&R on the MI20s and they had them set to -7/-8 for the road and track so that kind shows they have a lot of damping to control those rates. Its approx 300% difference in low speed damping between -20 and 0 clicks.

cossy pulley discounted?

Will asked me about brakes before he got his and I suggested Reyland. At the time I think reyland only had the old cp5200 caliper kit. Will didnt like to look of the old cp5200 so I suggested the new cp9200 which was a direct replacement including mounting holes and hardware, so Reyland wOuldnt even need to redesign the mounting bracket ect. After will bought his kit I think it appeared on their website. I was in contact with guestmead (uk ap distributor) and Peter Collen of AP about a year before that new forged cp9200 caliper was released. The kit you have is the one I was going to go for, but with racing disc with more cooling vanes, but in the end I saw an old Impreza Ap kit come up on ebay for silly cheap and so bought that got it refurbished. The standard ap 332x26mm offering is deigned to fit behind the stock wheels but both the caliper and discs are inferior. Price to pay to get it behind the skinny stock wheels. That kit is very very tight too. They had to design a thinner version of their cp6600 and use a 26mm wide disc, so im 99.9% sure this kit wont fit the stock rims without spacers. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

How do they heat cycle after multiple trackdays? Very good price indeed. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

You can get 5.1 for alot less though and if that does the job is good for 2 years AP racing also supply dot 5.1 with their bbks for the gt86. Sure for stock brakes that get hot 5.1 is perhaps not up to the job but for a large brake kit the temps will be much lower. If it aint broke... Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Fronts: set the camber bolts at the front to ass much as you can. I like a little toe out (0.05) to turn in feel. Rears: go for the same camber as the fronts. Tad of toe in for high speed stability. Job done

Honestly. Use Dot 5.1. It doesn't absorb moisture as fast and still has a high boiling point. I used RBF 660 and changed it after 7 months due to soggy pedal. I cant be bothered bleeding the brakes all the time. Try dot 5.1 and if you boil the fluid, go up to a higher temp fluid but dont waste money on race fluid you probably wont need. Whole point of a BBK like this is to allow the use of softer streetable pads and normal fluid. Race pads and fluid should be reserved for Race calipers/setups which are designed to glow red/smoke/take abuse and still work. Having said that I used cheap Valvoline dot 5.1 with race pads (clubracers) making them smoke like a mother trucker and the fluid was fine. I did bleed the calipers after every track day though just to be safe.

Forgot to add - yes I agree the reyland discs offer good value and cirtainly better heatsinking than oem which is also stright/drilled vanes. Martin Hadland (of reyland motorsport) also sells replacement discs for just about any brake kit ever made. Price difference when I came to replace my discs was £295 vs £400 (with part box discount) for the pair. So for the sake of £100 I went with the AP option and a soft pad. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Sorry I am taking about the internal vanes. The vented part between the two solid outside surfaces. On the reyland its essentially and solid bit of iron with holes drilled in it like an oem disc. AP discs have curves vanes so it acts like a centrifugal fan and you get better airflow. Not as easy to cast thought. AP can also provide different types of grooves in the surface on the discs. Id recomment curved grooves but J hook are also good but can encourage a bit more noise than curved vanes. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Bare in mind the cheaper versions use the reyland disc with straight vanes whereas AP disc have curved vanes which they claim improves cooling by 30%. The extra cooling capacity comes from the larger surface area and higher airflow throug the vanes. Its the same pad shape as the old cp5200 which is oe fitment to a few tvrs, aston martins ect and countless bbks. So pads arnt expensove at all. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Bare in mind the cheaper versions use the reyland disc with straight vanes whereas AP disc have curved vanes which they claim improves cooling by 30%. The extra cooling capacity comes from the larger surface area and higher airflow throug the vanes. Its the same pad shape as the old cp5200 which is oe fitment to a few tvrs, aston martins ect and countless bbks. So pads arnt expensove at all. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

I treat the BBK like fit and forget. Hot OEM brakes with pads like the HC800 or hotter will cause the caliper seals to leak eventually. One of my pistons was leaking when I took them off. Also the dust boots crack and fall apart leaving them open to salt ingress.

The HC800 are about as good as they get before you go to proper racepad territory which I wouldn't recommend for the road. Id try some ducting if you dont want to spend money in a bbk. Bare in mind you'll save weight with any decent two piece disc and aluminium caliper and consumables will last a lot longer which recovers some if not all of the cost.