Ade

Massively late to the party here but I've got the original Ohlin's SUS MI20 with 60N all round and Ohlins top mounts. Never had an issue with clunking at all. Fitted in 2015/16 I forget the year! Done about 20k on them including ~8-10 track days. Must be play in the top mount I reckon but maybe not the rose joint rather the rod through the bearing having a bit of play. Not ideal!

There is very limited space under the seat. I have a couple genesis profile amplifers under my seats. They are 40mm high and I mounted them on 9mm MDF glued to the floor. They just clear catching the seat near the rails. I opted to make a moulded sub box in the boot that sits flush with the liner Sub Box1 by Adrian Carter, on Flickr Resin Base by Adrian Carter, on Flickr Finished box by Adrian Carter, on Flickr Sub in place by Adrian Carter, on Flickr Finished by Adrian Carter, on Flickr

To suggest the flex As are even close to the Ohlins is ludicous. Nigel spent best part of 100k making a track car that eventually got scrapped before it was finished. His other gt86 that got the Ohlins was used to drive a few miles to his work and back, never used on track at all. The guy loved to tinker but wasn't a driver. How do I know this? I bought my Ohlins kit from him. I went to his house and met the guy and saw his work. Smart guy with good fabrication skills but to say flex A are better than Ohlins based on a 3 mile drive to work is silly and utter rubbish.

Ohlins with 60N/mm all round are not bad at all. I forget the numbers but of the top on my head, with 2mm passenger side and about 7mm preload driver side, with me in it - its got about 15mm free travel then another 40mm of bumper stop travel (progressive bump stops). Honestly if you need to bump travel due to the road you drive on then not many coilovers will be much use. The only ones I would look at are the bilsteins are they have lots of bump, but they wont be as good on track - but who care unless your racing?

I did a 0-60 in 5.3s without a proper launch! Trying to get below 5s is a skill as 1st gear just lights up the rear tyres, but I do believe with a good launch its possible and helped by the fact that my wheel diameter means the Speedo is spot on and the car can infact do 60mph in 2nd.

its a dual clutch gearbox iirc. From a standing start you would be screwed as it has 4WD but from a rolling 50mph youd at least be able to stay will one, if not edge away.

Torque and rpm are what makes hp. If both are 300hp then wheel torque after gearing has been taken into account will be similar. The golfs are notoriously under rated though so more likely 320hp. A revo golf R is very quick indeed.

Unless you were doing more than 110mph 5th wouldnt be the gear id select! Golf Rs standard I wouldnt expect to be any quicker, but with Revo ~380hp they are very rapid.

Hi Adi, pop me a PM and can discuss. Just recently I helped a guy with his cobra. We had to modify the dimensions a bit but the target frequency was the same and worked a treat just with one resonator chamber.

Intake temp will vary quite a lot depending on airflow through the intercooler and how much work the charger is doing. At the track you should see about +25-30C over ambient depending on the circuit and driving style, with the Harrop kit.

Congrats! 260 hub is about the same as the cosworth stage 2.3 Mark had on that dyno. Numbers on their own mean nothing though, it relative to stock stock ~170 then going SC + exhaust gets you ~260 which is a +53% gain. I concur it just feels like a bigger engine. power everywhere P.s. I am sure mark will happy to adjust the throttle mapping if you cant get used to it. I have two different throttle mappings for different situations.

I had a 1.6 Supercharged C180K Merc. The new models replaced the SC with a turbo and gained a few MPG combined, for the same power output. Turbos are a bit better for fuel economy than supercharged, its only about 5% based on the Mercs but in todays market where a few hp matters, turbo wins. You still get better fuel economy from a 200hp 1.6 supercharged than you do from a 200hp 2.0litre high revving N/A engine. Partly because the higher revving engine has shorter gearing to make use of the higher revs (to achieve the power). My 86 is doing about 3k at 70mph. My 20d BMW is doing half that with it 8speed gearbox. Frictional losses for one are lower with less revs and as been said forced induction improves thermal efficiency of the engine. Next gen 86 if it does go ahead will have to be turbo or supercharged to keep costs down I would think.

Big turbos lack low end torque and throttle response is not as sharp. Centrifugal SCs are belt driven turbos and also lack bottom end but sharp throttle as they are always spinning. Smaller turbos are better too. On plus side (big laggy) turbos can do big power, give better fuel economy on motorway and often have less complexity. E.g. air to air intercooler vs air to water to air that the roots chargers have and having to take manifold off ect... I'd go for a small turbo if you don't ever want more that the 280hp Rob lottery territory. Placement of some of the turbos in the kits concern me too.

This is sort of true. At wot 5k standard track day test it should be about 3dB louder with +50% more airflow. When cruising you are correct it shouldn't be as pronounced but it is still a tad louder due to a bit more load on the engine.

Some of the guys in the states use W40 oil and the TMG race card use 15W60. However they warm the engine up before driving. Toyota recommend 5W30 for hot climates. I would recommend 5W30 if you want to do tracksdys and don't have a strong oil cooler.