Luke

That looks great and thanks for the write up. Does the crossover look like a speaker or is that a mid speaker put in the dash cover as well?

Depending on where you mount the controller you would probably be best taking a power and ignition feed off the back of the stereo. You’ll also find A few earthing points behind there as well.

Use an Allen key and ring spanner to loosen the top mount nuts to the top of the thread with the car on the ground makes it much easier and prevents you spinning the shaft. No buzz gun required then.

Great catch up, almost too many faces to catch with all. Either way it was nice to see everyone and have a nice day despite this Pandemic. Looking forward to the next one.

Saying all that £60 for a set of springs is a good deal and probably worth a punt to see what you think. Does depend on your use, driving habits and most importantly your own butt dyno, is always different to another’s.

The 35-40mm springs on the standard wheels will cause them to sit very far inside the wheel arch. You’ll probably want to add wheel spacers to pull the wheel and tyre to the edge of the arch. Something else to bear in mind is that a 40mm drop will lose pretty much all of your damper travel, so the car will ride on the bump stops most of the time. Most springs with this drop will come with shorter bumpstops to give you some damper travel back I’d expect a very bumpy ride. Its also worth noting that it will put more camber on the front and rear wheels so the tyres will wear on the inside and the rear toe angle will change less favourably. I had mine lowered 40mm on coilovers which looked great, not good but not fun with speed bumps or getting a jack underneath or weaving around twigs in the road because you can drive around them anymore. Not to mention it put extra strain on the differential and driveshafts as the angle changes. You’ll hear it on full lock. If you do high mileage then just be prepared to wear things out much quicker. This is of course my opinion and experiences. Whilst the springs are cheap other costs will be involved, camber bolts, new shocks sooner, less tyre life and higher mechanical wear.

It’s not a Japanese engine, pack yool things and leave town boy 🤠!

The list goes on and on but at least it’s all very fixable. Which is what Sam is doing... isn’t he?

True I forgot that it was an Australian development. I just wonder how it would handle on a track day because it has a separate cooling system. I guess adding an oil cooler would cover that for the most part. Also I like your pirates of the Caribbean reference “There more like guidelines”. I had that with kitchen furniture recently.

Great write up. How have you found the heat management driving around with these high temperatures lately?

Thanks for stealing the pics of the USA forum. From those spy shots it looks like the brakes, rear suspension and exhaust layout are exactly the same. So for some the brakes will over heat too quickly on track and for other the rear suspension travel will seem too limited giving a harsher ride than necessary. Has anyone else spotted that the boot lid seems to bulge out a bit? This would increase boot capacity slightly? No child is going to mistake this rendition as a “Fellari”! Toyota have done something wrong here.

If this is the new one, I don’t like it. The body shape and size suggests it’s the original chassis. What happened to Toyotas new modular chassis they were going to use. The wheels are still cheap diamond cut bling. the headlights and bumper look like a scaled down GTR. “All blocky”. The Rear lights are Honda NSX as well. They’ve taken away the cars individuality that I love. At least they’ve finally allowed you to have an armrest and a cup holder at the same time.

Link isn’t working for me what date/time is this on? Or did I miss it?

Owned mine since new and used shell v power none stop for a year, eventually switched to Tesco 99 when shell changed their rewards program so I couldn’t get discounted fuel. I haven’t noticed a difference in performance or fuel economy. However I will say that after using the unknown brand of super unleaded at Bedford autodrome the engine was making the fuel pump washer rattle sound, which went away once I got shell v power back in the tank.

That’s always a benefit of getting a good quality paint job. It’s always much thicker and therefore more durable than most manufacturers put on.

Has anyone else heard the rumours that the new car is going to be on the same chassis with only a mild power increase using a non turbo 2.4 boxer engine. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.topspeed.com/cars/car-news/the-latest-report-on-the-2021-toyota-86-and-subaru-brz-will-piss-you-off-ar188506.amp.html I think there might be some truth to this as surely there would of been lots of spy shots of a camouflaged test car driving around to test bed all the new components. Will the new one even look any different as we’ve only seen artists renditions rather than an official release from Toyota or Subaru.

I looked at the pictures and thought what’s the valve head doing over there! That really did make a mess. Out of interest, how long did it take to swap the engine?

It looks quite nice, Will their be other Porsche touches to it?

I had brake squeal within the first 10k miles from new. Toyota said it was fine and refused to do anything. I took them apart myself and cleaned it all up and greased the sliders, put a chamfer on the pads. Still squeaked. It would go away temporarily after some heavy braking but would come back after normal braking a few days later. I bit the bullet and replaced the pads and discs all round to anything other than Toyota and problem solved. Only reading this has reminded how much the squealing brakes used to annoy me. Mine have been squeal free for 8 months.

I think Toyota would be do better to bring the smaller 2.0 manual supra to the UK and end the GT86. They can’t be selling hardly any anymore on our shores? I’m coming to the end of my 3 year PCP and think I’m going to keep my 86 over 0% on the supra. It’s just not as appealing as the under dog 86.

How long have you owned the car? Is it Toyota main dealer service history?

I’m personally glad that they’ve not switched to the new chassis with a turbo engine because I don’t think they’d get that sweet balancing chassis/ engine using one of the new modular Lego chassis that VAG group like to use to save a lot of money. I’ve said that I would be happier if they just stopped making the car altogether because they set out to achieve what they wanted and it was always down to the owners/tuning companies to fettle with them as much as they pleased.

The knocking noise could also be the top mount bolts not tight enough. Try checking their tight with the bonnet up and bouncing your weight near the top mounts. Usually a quick nip up will silence the rattle. I’ve not heard of anyone fitting Corsa C drop links instead, are they shorter length? With only a 25mm drop you’d get away with the OEM drop links.

Strange that you’d be smelling it from the noise generator going to the induction pipe. I’ll try that today with mine. I run my air conditioning regularly to keep it circulating and seals lubricated in the pipe lines. changing the cabin filter worked short term but this year I’m getting the air con serviced as it should be done every two years anyway. normfest viro cleaner is what I use in the air vents every 6 months seems to help.

I’m running 16x7 fox racing wheels that are 3kg lighter than the stock wheel and tyre setup. Using a 205/55R16 Dunlop winter sports. I think the car does ride better over the bumps and the unavoidable pot holes. The steering has lost a little of its initial turn in but once you get used to it the car feels more progressive from understeer to oversteer.