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Everything posted by Luke
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Front wishbones (tracking control arms)
Luke replied to Adi's topic in Wanted GT86 / BRZ Cars and Parts
So… was this resolved 3 years ago? Or is it still clunking? -
Worth it if you can find one and there is still plenty of spare parts and advice available from Matt at Cosworth. I bought mine used from a guy in Northern Ireland who put his car back to stock. Keep an eye on the Facebook groups, seems to be the best way to find rare used parts.
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It’s like a well tuned soundstage that lets you hear every instrument. I was amazed at how much of the car gets drowned out by the louder exhausts. Glad you like it and well worth the long term investment?
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You’re going to enjoy it! Just make sure you throw it round some corners to be certain the centre silencer doesn’t hit the transmission tunnel as it’s a very tight fit.
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Hi all, I’ve had a cosworth supercharger fitted for 10 months now and this is the first time heading through winter. I have noticed that the cars oil and coolant stay relatively cool during normal driving. Coolant 77c and oil 78c. I fitted an oil cooler with a thermostatic flow valve that opens at 75c. I also fitted a mishimoto thermostat to the coolant pump which runs at 70c. Both of which help the car run really well on track but I just wondered if anyone else has noticed this and if so what they do to get it back up to 90c in winter with normal driving. I could blank things off but I’ve never seen another 86 with any grills blocked off. Any help or advise would be much appreciated, Thanks.
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Well it won’t hurt lol
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Someone after more power? Just get the rods changed and put the small pulley on so you can crank up the boost.
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Thanks Deacon, I’ve used a sheet of Perspex that covers the oil cooler. Managed to cut a slot in the under tray so that it slides in under the bumper hidden from view. Guess you can’t do that if you’re running aero/ splitters or just too damn low. The oil gets temperature much sooner now and it sits at 89c stable. Also a bonus is the coolant gets warmer sooner as well because it partially blocks air flow to the radiator.
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Yes penny washers with the original springs and longer bolts will give you more wiggle room to get it sealed up.
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I had similar issues sorting this before. From memory one side goes easy then the other, I think one points more towards the transmission tunnel and that one I usually do up loosely first. Then you can get the other spring bolt in before buttoning both of them down. One is always tighter then the other. I’ve not seen the joint that the Scorpion uses but when I fitted a Tuning Developments exhaust I had to get some longer bolts and penny washers from B&Q instead.
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Yes that makes and it which case you’d gain more from it during road driving because you won’t have the coolant temps above 90c unless you have being racing the engine a lot.
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It allows forced induction cars to run a little cooler which in turn allows a little more ignition advance, the same is true for NA but to a lesser extent. It also means more coolant flow at lower temps which in turn should keep the engine cooler when out on track.
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Yeah it bleeds oil through to maintain consistent pressure. I did think about a JDM plate but that leaves the holes in the bumper exposed. You are right you do need to oil up to temp to burn off water and fuel in the oil. That’s my excuse for driving it hard every now and then. I’ve already got the 90c stat in the oil cooler, so I just need to create a way to block off the cooler.
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My charge cooler temps are the same as yours 10-20c above IAT but stay stable through the rev range. My engine coolant is lower because of the mishimoto thermostat that opens at 76c instead of the oem 88c. It’s part of the Cosworth setup to run a lower temp thermostat. I guess the Harrop uses the oem one?
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How did you blank it off? I was thinking of using some Perspex and sliding it in front on the oil cooler. What temp are your thermostatic switches in the oil cooler?
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Problem passenger window - wellknown reset doesn't work
Luke replied to Gerko_NL's topic in ICE/Electrical
Someone has likely been behind the door before. I had the same issue when I refitted the door cards after fitting door speakers and sound deadening and window tints. The plug feels connected but has a definitive click if you wiggle it further when reconnecting. -
Glad you found the cause of the issue. Did you replace the donut gasket from cat to cat back? It’s a crush seal so could be the cause.
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You’ll love this exhaust, I’ve got it and the sound is great. No drone at all just a nice sound. Make sure that you get h and s to fit it as it’s likely to need tweaking with a blow torch to fit correctly as there are a few joins. Ian is great at h and s.
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Tuning developments super resonated cat back
Luke posted a topic in Wanted GT86 / BRZ Cars and Parts
As the title says I’m after the tuning developments super resonated cat back to go with the track manifold I’ve recently acquired. willing to swap my oem cat back in good condition 2017 with 40,000miles on it. -
Tuning developments super resonated cat back
Luke replied to Luke's topic in Wanted GT86 / BRZ Cars and Parts
The welds were great on the TD exhaust. I’ve swapped to a h and s super resonated now as it has less drone. -
Interesting. I have also recently installed a Berk HFC and noticed my mpg go up since fitting it over a broken oem cat. The noise is louder and deeper because the stock resonator is removed with the Berk. These cars are very raspy by nature, you should look to get a Helmholtz resonator welded into the car back exhaust at some point to keep the noise, drone and resonance levels down. As for the mpg going down, you should look to have the ecu remapped to match the exhaust mods. This will sort out the fuelling and increase your mpg. I would suggest removing the negative battery terminal for 30mins to allow the fuel trims to reset as it might improve your mpg.
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Tuning developments super resonated cat back
Luke replied to Luke's topic in Wanted GT86 / BRZ Cars and Parts
Thanks, I did buy one from another member, these are really well designed exhausts. Fits very well. -
Using hex mat and dodo liner up there has the most effective results. Gets rid of that stuck in a caravan on a rainy day sound.
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Should the car height be level or higher in the rear?
Luke replied to Lordyboi's topic in GT86/BRZ General Chat
If you want the car to sit level then just adjust the height to your visual tastes. What you’ll find though is the suspension travel is shorter on the rear. Hence why a lot of drivers keep the rear slightly higher to allow better handling and a better drive. I’ve always preferred more front rake on the GT86. -
The road noise comes from wafer thin wheel arch liners and hollow chassis chambers that echo the tyre roar into the car. Keeps weight down and improves handling. If you don’t like road noise this car simply won’t be for you.