Mark@Abbey M/S

Spec, outside diameter of the Reimax oil pump gears are just 1/2 thou undersize from a new stock Toyota Oil pump gear.

Spec K , okay I miss understood the "us" very sorry; We will have a oil pump in a car very soon , think it will be our own car at 1st , we have made a big head way on understanding the FA20 oiling issues the last month or so.

Our car is N/A again..........

Been measuring our Reimax oil pump rotors up now they have arrived; They are dimensional perfect measured against a stock GT86 oil pump gear. Keith can I ask why I am not experienced in this subject please?

Cancelled the Ptuning. Got one of these on its way......

The stock calibration will also add fuel if the Advance Multiplier drops below a certain level. This can be adjusted. Using the RaceRom feature you could shut the throttle if the AM drops below a certain value. This would instantly give you feedback that you are seeing something happening that is causing the AM to drop. With a little lateral thinking the RaceRom with EcuTek can be used to make your engine as safe as possible.

Abbey Motorsport Development car Powered by Sprintex Calibrated by EcuTek Starting to see some better numbers from the Sprintex SC with some development with using EcuTek development software

The cam control allows you to move the cams to give the best VE ( volumetric efficiency) through out the RPM range the motor uses. A cam needs to be move advanced at lower RPM to allow the cylinder to be filled efficiency and more retarded at high RPM. NA and FI cams set up are normally a little different also you can move the powerband around by playing with cam angle.

Yes I am at work today a Sunday, but reading up on some information on oil coolers today seems the bigger the oil cooler the less pressure drop we will see as there is more cross section area on the fins is larger so less pressure drop;

Keith, increased lift and increased capacity means more power. The HKS pistons have a bigger valve cut out than the stock piston for the increased lift. The increase in compression comes from the longer stroke I think but I think they have lifted the big end gudgeon pin up in the piston or using a shorter rod to allow for the extra stroke.

But it means a cam has a lot longer duration as the cam cam be advanced then retarded from the zero position. see below HKS specification

Sprintex has been sold on to a customer. In N/A trim only reason to go forged is to gain capacity. Nigel that's good info I presume they have only added new duration to the cam spec?

Kethos, think we will use a HKS V2 for some FI development think we can push these motors for some big numbers with a centrifugal charger. N/A tuning I want to see what the manifolds available actually show on our in house dyno.

Cams at the moment means Pistons with bigger valve cut outs!

Sprintex SC coming back off , going back au natural for a while for some N/A development. It will be a little less potent but will be fun. Then we will get back into F/I later this year.

Jay, thanks for that , seems running an oil cooler helps keep the cold oil temp under control.

The stock knock control via the ECUTEK is very good. Your tuner should be able to tune the car no problem. Thanks

Spec, Yes we don't track our GT but I am trying to help owners out with my experience. We built/developed a few vehicles for track work and my time working in motorsport has helped me look into and work out a fix for issues on our cars. We are understanding these motors a lot more and are working to develop these excellent motors. Thanks

I will have some pictures soon of a few things I have found. The baffle on the intermediate isn't worth being called a baffle there is far to many ways for the oil to take a runner from the pick up. Nigel will ring you tomorrow to discuss

1) The pressure relief value is there to stop oil pressure going astronomically high at low temp/higher revs (along with the tooth profile of the oil gear). It doesnt regulate very well. At low oil temps, the difference between idle/low revs and 7k rpms is not much. Even at 100C the oil pressure tops out at about 5krpms and stays there all the way to 7.5k. At very high oil temps I dont think the pressure release valve does much at all. Pressure release valve will be designed to work at all temps i now have a front cover split and working on how it all works and why it does what it does. 3) I think its rubbish. TMG would not recommend 10W60 if this was the case nor would toyota/subaru engineer something with tolerances so close that it would stop the AVSC working if you went above a W30. W60 isnt twice the thickness after all. I've heard about dealers sticking 5W40 in GT86s... (probably thinking it was the right oil) This is just what i have read 4) In uk climate a 5W40 should be fine. You probably wont see an increase in pressure at startup (cold) because the release valve will be active, but I think the main compromise is the oil pressure around town when oil temps are 90-100C where pressure will be quite a bit higher than a W20. Probably not dangerously higher but it will affect fuel economy if you care! I think a 0w50 would be away forward in the cold and in the summer a 10w50 weighted oil I think with a little work could limit RPM at cold oil temps to control RPM until oil temp is over a certain level if needed. 5) All the data I have seen shows the coolant temp rock solid at 93C (as designed with the stock themostat) even with +40% power. Stateside I think guys running +400hp saw coolant temps going above 95C which indicates the thermostat is fully open and thus the cooling system is at full capacity. Cosworth fit a lower temp thermostat as part of stage 1. That may help oil temps a bit? interested infomation 6) You want an oil cooler with a larger cross sectional area (relative to oil flow not the front face where the air passes through). So short and fat, rather than thin and long. The more oil vanes in the cooler, and the shorter they are, the less it will resist flow. Don't understand this. I think the pressure drop will be in relation to area. most cooler are the same width (depth) Mocal make 2 lengths 115 and 235mm long and looks of different heights Vanes I presume you need internal for the oil to flow through? 9) Unless you are running R compound tyres the stock sump has a decent enough baffle it seems. I havent heard of any oil starvation issues running road legal tyres? Again I refer to the TMG CS-V3 car. It runs slicks and they dont have any extra baffling. Stock sump HAS no baffles it is a truly rubbish design. it even encourages the oil to move away from the pick up due to the angled sides. Looking for a picture Not sure a better sump is required. Having said that, the extra surface area and capacity might be a worthwile investment. This is where a pressure guage is important. On long high G curves, keep an eye on the oil pressure guage. If you see oil pressure drop massively its likely because the oil pickup in the sum is not getting any oil. You might be okay if it happens a few times but repeatedly and the bareings will be donefore. 11) I "over fill" mine. I put in about 6 litres. This isn't a good idea as over filling will allow the crank to airate the oil more so cause pressure drop. Like This Quote MultiQuote

My thoughts at the moment; We are looking in depth to oiling issues on the FA20 @ the moment 1 , Why is there such a difference in cold and hot oil pressures even if the oil pressure release valve spring pressure is consistent? 2 , Oil temp is read after the oil filer together with oil pressure warning light 3 , Is it true that it is said that the cam control cant cope with thicker than 0w30 oil as plenty of people are using a thicker oil and having no issues. 4 , Running a thicker oil will help hot oil pressures but running a thicker oil temp can cause to high oil pressure when cold 5 , Running a bigger engine radiator to keep the coolant temp cooler will also make the oil temp run at a lower temp. 6 , Running an oil cooler with cause pressure drop to resistance across the cooler also pressure drop will be in relation to oil cooler size 7 , We have notice a few off the oil ways need some work to help flow in the motor. 8 , The stock crankshaft has a strange oil drilling set up for Number 2 and 3 big end bearing supply which we feel will require more oil pressure a HKS stroker kit has a better drilling set up that will cope with lower oil pressure 9 , the Accumulator is just an Accusump that a lot of Subaru tuners advise track cars to run to stop oil surge , the issue with a flat 4 engine is the oil can run up under the pistons area very easily under High G loadings 10, Revs make more heat. 11, More oil capacity will help both surge and oil temp control 12, to be continued thanks

All listed in post #25

I was talking about the alloy casing being modified. I think the huge pressure difference between hot and cold is possible the alloy casings expanding and the side tolerance between the oil pump gears and casing increasing and allowing oil to be pushed out around the gear. I been told the cam control will work with a much thicker than stock oil without any issues as well.

strange what they have done inside the BLUE ring area around the oil pressure release valve

One of the issues I feel is the huge difference between cold and hot oil pressure. Using a thicker oil will make a higher cold oil pressure that I am a little worried about , my road car runs 0w20 and I see 110+ psi on cold start up being careful until the car is warm. My friend in NZ that runs a turbo powered GT86 uses a 0W40 oil in his stock motor , he runs a 25 row oil cooler he is also running a M1 motec ECU and dash so has a lot of dataloged data, he sees 120+ oil pressure on cold start @ 3000rpm , , when running on the track he sees 115C oil temp (big baffled sump also fitted) he only sees around 50psi hot oil pressure, which we both feel isn't enough. He also said running the thicker oil doesn't cause any issues with the cam control.