Conscript

I don't know. Really quite like the look of them as a replacement. But I've never bought a brand new car, always thought it a bit of a waste of money, and would usually rather go for a used approved car that's a little older. However, if there's only 400 coming to the UK, and they are touting that it will be the last of it's kind, I'm guessing they might not be readily available second hand. So now I am trying to justify some man maths to myself and see if I'm willing to, for the first time ever, buy something brand new. It would mean swallowing my pride after having spent years lecturing friends with brand new cars about the depreciation they are wasting money on

Yes, I hope so. I've seen the shots of the car in Neptune Blue, and to be honest, if I ordered one, I'd want it in that. Looks lovely.

"Colours will be the same as GR Yaris (TBC)". I hope not. Hardly an inspiring palette to choose from. White, black or red.

You can buy replacement indicator relays which will add lane change functionality at one touch, but they are pretty pricey for what they do. US thread talking about it here, to get you started: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129695

Cheers. PM sent

Cheers mate, let me know, if it's all there I think I'd be interested. Could possibly collect.

Is the Berk HFC so-named because that's exactly what everyone thinks of you every time you pull out of a junction? I gather they can be verging on antisocial.

Cheers. Claims they are a direct replacement for OEM, maybe slightly longer, so might be worth a try for me. Do you still have all the mounting hardware (washers, spacers, etc)? As it looks like they are needed for installing on OEM struts.

Back in 2017 I had my car modified at Abbey, I had an ACE CS400 manifold installed, alongside a Cobra HFC. Performance is great, torque dip eliminated. However I was never that happy with the sound. It was okay-ish with the rest of the exhaust stock but I kept looking for options to make it sound better. Last year during lockdown I purchased a Q300 catback, which is meant to be one of the quieter systems, but I still found it a bit loud and droney at about 2.5K RPM. I got rid after three months. I then went to just a Remus backbox, still with the ACE and the Cobra HFC. Much more bearable than the Q300. But was still getting a little bit of annoying rasp sometimes at low revs. So last month, I decided to see if removing the HFC made a difference. I swapped it out and went back to the OEM front pipe, which has a resonator. That has got rid of the rasp, and I haven't really noticed any loss of performance or efficiency. That said, I'm not a track driver, and probably don't drive as hard as most, so I might have lost a tad of top end power but not noticed. But I am at least happy with the sound now. So the exhaust system now goes ACE manifold > OEM front pipe > OEM midpipe > Remus backbox. All that is a long way of saying that in my experience, I've found that the system sounds better with the OEM front pipe, and I've haven't really noticed if going back to it reduced power. If you're getting a decat manifold, just be aware that a high flow cat might make the system noisy if you have anything other than an OEM catback. Whether that bothers you or not is up to you. As for MOT compliance....I think the general consensus is that with a decatted manifold, and the second cat in the front pipe replaced with a HFC, you might be at risk of not passing emissions - at the very least you will have to make sure it's tested with the exhaust piping hot to make sure it passes. Mine has never failed the MOT since it's been running with just the Cobra HFC as the only cat...however that's because I've made sure to always take it back to Abbey for the MOT, who will make sure to test it when it's thoroughly warmed up.

Are the Perrin drop links for the front, and are they the same length as OEM, or are they only for lowered cars? I have completely stock suspension, but my OEM drop links are starting to go. This is about my third set, so I was looking around for a more durable aftermarket set.

Excellent deals, but do you have any other discounts planned? Reason being, I was looking at a much more modest product on your website over the weekend; your uprated drop links, as my OEM ones are creaking again, and I was thinking about getting something stronger. I will hold off if there's any other discounts being planned.

Decent review, but I see it only took a few posts before the usual "it nEeDS a tURbO!!" morons turned up. Reminds me why I don't bother with the PH forums anymore. Anyway...getting increasingly hyped about the GR86

That would be best...it might sound OK sitting at idle on a lift in a garage, but you want to know what it will sound like on the inside when actually driving it. If you can, take it for a cruise along the motorway at 70MPH and see if it drones...if it does, it could get very annoying very quickly. Although I guess you might end up with some funny looks driving around with no exhaust

If it's on the lower front, could it be the dipstick tube? Fairly common for the o-ring where it goes into the block to fail, but I'm pretty sure it's quick fix. Someone on the Facebook group posted about it recently, they supplied the o-ring part number and it takes just a few minutes to unbolt and pull off the dipstick tube to replace it. Regardless, personally if it's under warranty, that would be my first port of call, just in case it's not something simple.

I don' think it's too bad. The base model of the GT86 was £25K when it came out in 2012. I just checked the BoE inflation calculator, and that's £30,190.06 in 2020. So if we get the premium version of the GR86 for £30K, that's not really any more expensive than the GT86 was at launch (in fact, probably slightly better, because with options I think the GT86 was closer to £28K IIRC). This is a roundabout way of me trying to justify buying one for myself 😛

As soon as you said yours was a 2013 plate, I figured you'd have trouble with those bolts. Mine is also a 2013 car, and last year, I experimented with a new catback system...the bolts holding back box to centre section were just lumps of rust, so I had to remove both sections together. However I was later able to split them by taking a Dremel to what was left of the bolts. Replaced them with stainless steel nuts and bolts when I later put it back on.

If you want to test, it should be pretty easy just to whip off the backbox and see how it sounds. It's only 2 bolts and 4 rubber hangars. The only issue is the bolts in question might just be two heaps of rusted metal depending how old your car is. And I think a generic 2.5 inch gasket would do the job, so easy to obtain.

Not your seat is it? My seat creaks a fair amount sometimes, and, like you say, it's exactly that kind of "bed spring" noise, and doesn't sound like it's coming from outside the car. Another prime suspect would be the infamous clutch squeak, but it doesn't seem like you're changing gear in the video. Does it happen every time you pull away? It seems to be when you're already on the move, is it at the same speed everytime?

Just to back up what others have said, I also have the STI engine mounts, after Will recommended them to me, but they appear to be the same as the TRD ones. There's no extra noise or vibration at all, but it solved the issue I was having with some over pipe contact on acceleration sometimes. After doing the engine mounts, I tried running with a Superpro transmission insert in the transmission mount. This made the shifting feel nicer, and it did the most for getting rid of that lurch you're describing. However, it did introduce a fair amount of NVH - not terrible, mainly gear whine, but more than I'd like for daily driving. So I removed the insert and instead swapped the entire transmission mount for a TRD version - which again, appears to be the same as the STI mount, just sold by Toyota. This has all the advantages of the transmission insert, but it's nowhere near as noisy; it is a little more noisy than stock, but it's in no way intrusive, and only at idle. Once you're on the move, any extra noise is masked by normal road/wind/exhaust noise and the radio. So my advice would be to replace all three of the mounts (engine left/right and the transmission) for the best improvement, as they certainly make the car feel more taught.

I've used the Superpro version, which appears to be pretty much the same thing, and it definitely made a good difference for the price. It took out some of the slop in the drivetrain, and the car felt more secure, it got rid of that slight 'lurch' you get as the engine moves when coming on/off the throttle quickly. It also made shifting feel much nicer - both the actual movement of the gearknob, and the engagement of the clutch. Kind of hard to explain, but because the gearbox is more solidly mounted, it felt like as you pushed the stick into gear, less energy from your hand movement was being absorbed by the transmission moving on it's soft mounts, and it gave a slicker, more positive feeling to the shift. It won't be a night and day difference, but for the price and the ease of fitment, you can see why so many people rave about it. The downside is slightly increased noise. I noticed as soon as I started the engine that a little more engine noise was transmitted to the cabin, and at idle, you can hear the transmission whirring a bit more. Accelerating in lower gears, you will hear some gear whine (which isn't actually that unpleasant, in a "because racecar" sort of way :D). Once you're up to speed, it's not much more noticeable, and most reviews I read before I installed it said most people just tuned it out, or actually preferred the noise. Because I'm a bit of a fanny when it comes to NVH, I took it out after a week and instead replaced the entire transmission mount with the uprated TRD version. This gives the same advantages in feel, but because it's still all rubber, it doesnt transmit the noise form engine/gearbox so much. This is a much more expensive option though, think it cost me about £158, as opposed to the Superpro mount which was about £33. As a result. I am now selling it on, as it was only used for probably less than 100 miles, so if you want to take it off me and give it a try, I have a thread in the For Sale section . It's pretty easy to fit, and if it's not for you, it's just as easy to remove again. Not a lot to be lost by at least trying it.

I've been wondering the same, given that I might be interested in upgrading to the GR86 when it comes out....but my list of 'proper' mods is much smaller (basically manifold and tune). That said, my car as quite a few "OEM+" mods that I would leave in place because it would be to much hassle to remove and I wouldn't gain much in selling them on....MTEC clutch/gearbox springs, Focal speakers, bonnet lifters, etc. I'm not sure if mentioning them in advertising would be good or not; they are technically mods, but pretty innocuous and all of them pretty much objective upgrades of existing parts.

This is a tough one to answer. The GR is undoubtedly the better car in every way, except for looks (subjectively), as initial reviews seem to suggest that it fixes all the deficiencies of the older model (most notably, the rather underwhelming torque delivery). That said, it will of course be more expensive. So the argument will always be that you could buy a slightly older GT and modify it to fix those deficiencies anyway. I guess it comes down to what you want to do; some people probably aren't interested in modifying a car, in which case, maybe waiting for the new model is the best option. Personally, I am interested in the GR86, but that's as someone who has owned a GT for 8 years (4 years of which it's been slightly modified) - so I think I'm due for a replacement at some point anyway. Still think the Mk1 GT86 looks better, but the looks of the GR are growing on me, and I think I could live with them to gain the other improvements. My advice would be to start saving now, and just wait until the GR86 is released. Then you can judge it yourself, but if you decide you want the older model, I imagine they might be cheaper once the GR is out anyway.

Price reduced to £125

Why did you have to tighten your tie rods, had they been replaced? It's my guess that in doing so you've affected the toe alignment of the front wheels, causing the tyres to scrub, but perhaps the tread pattern means they only squeal in one direction.

Want it.