Conscript

I liked the sound generator on a stock car. It gave a nice bit of feedback, especially when blipping the throttle. But I found that when my manifold was changed, it seemed to be less effective, so I ended up removing it all. I have kept it all in the garage so it can be refitted at any time.

This evening I noticed a new noise from my car. 7 years old / about 85K miles, stock suspension. When stationary, turning the wheel, there's a kind of creaking noise coming from the front end, mainly right hand side I think, and in the engine bay area. Audible clearly from within the car and also when stood outside it. The noise only appears to be when the steering wheel is turned - I can't detect any noise when driving, going over bumps etc (side note....a couple of weeks ago, I did notice a rather off sort of creak when going over some of those ridiculously harsh speed bumps you get in car parks and such - but over most normal bumps, there's no noise, so I've just been keeping an ear out, but I guess it's possible it could be related to this). I am 95% sure this is the strut top bearing, but I wanted to post here in case anyone had any other opinions. I've never heard one before, so although it's the most likely culprit, it would be handy to get confirmation from someone who has had it. A few months ago, as per another thread on here, I had an issue with creaking noises on uneven ground which was cured when the droplinks and ARB bushes were replaced, so I don't think the noise is those - besides, this noise is much more noticeable. I've taken a couple of videos, one from inside the car, the other with the phone propped up on the strut mount. The sound isn't great, but hopefully it gives you an idea. Assuming it is the strut tops, I think replacement is fairly straightforward - jack up car, unbolt drop links/ABS sensor/brake line from the strut, unbolt the two bolts at the bottom and the three bolts holding the strut top, withdraw the whole lot, compress spring and then undo the nut holding the strut top to the shock. That last step actually looks to the be trickiest (as I think you also need a hex key to stop the shock from turning - can you do without this if you just whizz the nut off with an impact wrench?). Then reassemble in reverse. Again though - I'd like to know if anyone has done this before. Suspension upgrades are common for this car, so I'm hoping there's others with experience! Posted this on the Facebook group and the Owners Club too.

I'd get the gearbox oil changed to something decent. Abbey put Millers gear oil in mine and that really improved the shifting feel. Shouldn't be too expensive, and can only help. Ask them to install MTEC shift springs too. They really make a difference to shift quality, they center the gearstick with more force which makes shifts across the centre of the gate easier and more precise. Perhaps what you're feeling is the stick catching on the gate slightly as you shift into third...before the shift springs if I shifted too quickly from 2nd to 3rd it was sometimes possible to stick on the gate between 1st and 3rd...the stronger MTEC springs help with that by applying a stronger centring force to the stick.

Adding MTEC gearbox and clutch springs, decent gearbox oil (Millers) and adjusting the clutch pedal to lower the biting point slightly has vastly improved my manual car.

Might not be that hard a sell for me. I've owned a 2013 model for 7.5 years, primarily because there's little else on the market that offers what the GT86 does that I can realistically afford. I agree, the new model actually looks more like a big facelift. And exterior wise, I prefer the looks of my current car. However, if they've kept the same ethos of the current car (fun, modest power, fairly light, manual, NA, cheap to run, etc) while fixing the main deficiencies (ie, a slight power boost but more importantly, more torque in the mid range) and giving it a better, more modern interior, then I can definitely see myself moving to one when my own car becomes too long in the tooth.

Getting back onto the topic of the actual start up screen, I've had a go at making one for myself. I wanted one in the same style as the OP, but with the Toyota logo instead of Subaru. However, I then decided to add a little bit of flair. I just did a google search for "GT86 silhouette" and found a a beautiful outline image of the car posted by someone on Reddit years ago (so please, all credit to them as the original artist). I then also just searched for the Toyota logo on a black background and hey presto, manage to make what I think is a nice bootup screen Hard to take a photo of it in car due to the amount of glare, so I've attached the files here as well as .bmp images, if anyone wants to use them. You can just use them with @Shad's .txt file, just ensure the image is named "image1.bmp" on the USB stick. I believe this unit also supports custom wallpapers, so I might see if I can use the silhouette there as well. image1-logo only.bmp image1.bmp

Yeah, I am going to neaten it all up later, try and tape everything that's needed away neatly and make sure nothing is rattling around. If that's the case, I'll plug the GPS in at the same time then. Initial impressions are good, though. Screen is nice and responsive, and once I'd grounded the handbrake wire, Android Auto setup was a breeze. The mounting bracket doesn't fit fantastically, but it might just need a little fettling.

My unit arrived today. Spent my lunch break getting it set up basically, just to get power to it and take a look. This evening after work I will spend some time getting it properly fitted and make sure everything is neat and tidy. Pleased so far though @Shad - another question for you (sorry)...did you plug in the GPS antennae when you installed yours? It comes with it, but as far as I can tell, the unit doesn't have maps preinstalled...I didn't bother plugging it in yet, but navigation seems work work through Google Maps on AA fine. The only thing I can see it being needed for is the clock syncing and the compass widget. TO be honest, I'd rather not have to have an ugly GPS block sitting on the dash if I can avoid it.

Bugger. I'd hoped a flagship phone would be the one least likely to have issues. Yes, at the moment I have a magnetic fast charging wireless phone holder, so I can jut plop the phone on it, and it charges, and it's sitting in front of me if I need to use the map. My intention is to either bin that (or modify it), so that instead I have a wireless charging pad under the arm rest, with a 12v fast charger. So if I'm just popping to the shops, I can leave my phone in my pocket while still using AA, but if it's a longer journey, I can stick the phone on charge safely stowed away under the arm rest, with no wires trailing to the head unit One question you might be able to answer for me...does this unit have the ability to adjust the volume automatically based on the vehicle speed? I understand that the Kenwood units do have a Vehicle Speed Sensor pickup wire, and that it's needed if you use Apple Car Play. I don't need that, but I can't seem to confirm if the VSS wire will also allow the unit to boost volume to account for increasing road noise. It's another feature that seems to be missing from most aftermarket HUs - but our cars are pretty noisy when you get up to speed, and I hate having to fiddle with the volume regularly. For all it's faults, it's the one area where the stock unit is actually better, as it had automatic volume adjustment.

Cheers Shad. I actually found your other thread where you listed the parts you'd bought, so I've ordered the same fascia adapter as well. I actually already have an aftermarket head unit (Pioneer DAB unit), but I really wanted wireless Android Auto (for music as well). I think the ISO harness that came with that should work, and I also have a DAB aerial and mic already installed (and I think the aerial and USB adapter), so I'm hoping I can just swap the head unit itself out. If I need any other bits, I'll order them after the head unit arrives. Glad to hear the screen is better, as that's one of my gripes about the Pioneer unit I have. The UI in the Pioneer isn't fantastic either (better than OEM), so as long as the Kenwood is "as good" then I will be happy, especially if the screen is more responsive. I have a modern and fairly common Android phone (Samsung Galaxy S10), so as long as the Android Auto works okay, I will be happy. I really just want a no-nonsense solution where I can get in the car with my phone in my pocket, and have the head unit access Spotify, Maps, Audible, etc, all without me having to faff with plugging the phone in or even getting it out of my pocket. I found from experience with my girlfriend's car that Android Auto is fantastic....but because it has to be plugged in to work in her car (OEM Kia), then I never go to the bother of using it unless it's a long journey.

Going by the videos I've watched, the DDX919WS is indeed wireless (long video here: However, as it needs to be imported from abroad, I've now ordered the DMX8020DABS, same as Shad. It doesn't look like quite the perfect fit that the DDX unit is, however, it looks nice and neat in his photo above, so I'm happy with that.

Hi Shad, I've been discussing wireless Android Auto head units on the other forum. In doing that, I found the DMX8020DABS and now I'm looking at one as a potential upgrade. How are you finding the head unit in general...easy to install, use, etc? I'm keen to get wireless Android Auto and was looking at the Kenwood DDX919WS as its a perfect fit for our cars, but it's not available in the UK so would need to be ordered from Malayasia. But the DMX8020 looks available in the UK and going by your photo, fits nice with a fascia adapter there. Also...this has a capacitive touch screen am I right? Currently have a Pioneer unit with a resistive touch screen which isn't great if I'm honest. The Kenwood screens do seem superior.

Make sure you adjust the clutch switch down as well (the little push switch that is pressed in whilst the pedal is up). When I adjusted my clutch, I found that although the bite point was more comfortable, the car would bog down sometimes when I was lifting the clutch to pull away. It turns out that as well as being the cut off switch for the cruise control and the gear indicator, the switch is also linked to the ECU and retards the engine power whilst the clutch is down. So if you lower the pedal but not the switch, you might find that the engine is retarding power for too long when lifting the clutch. He does mention it in the video, but I thought it worth highlighting - I initially didn't adjust it because my CC was still cutting off correctly while the switch was in the original position. I didn't realise it affected the engine power too. Car was much better to drive after correcting the switch as well.

Did the Colgate on the headlights work long term? My drivers side light has the same milky look that yours had. I keep meaning to buy a restoration kit, but if forgotten about the toothpaste trick. What do you do, just polish it in with a cloth, allow to dry then buff off? Oddly, my passenger side is fine. Also, car looking great in general, big up the pearl white gang

Update for future reference: Lauren was right, it was the drop links. On inspection they looked fine, but as I had the car in the air anyway, I replaced them, and the noise has gone. Surprised (and annoyed), as the old links looked and felt fine after removal...no splits in the boot that I can see, and they didn't feel too loose. I may cut the boots open later and check the rose joints. And they are a pain in the arse to remove, even after only 6 months on the car. Still, preferable to having the strut assembly out.

None whatsoever. But I'm not someone who lives at the redline 24/7, nor do I track the car...someone who does might notice it more. To be honest, I never even noticed much difference in performance between 95RON and 99RON in the few times I used it. I'd probably still be happy to use 95RON now, but I can't because the car is remapped.

It's not just cheap 95RON fuel. I've had the crickety fuel pump forever, and the car has been run on V-Power or Momemtum-99 almost exclusively - neither of which are cheap, nor 95RON. The only time it ever disappeared was when using Esso-97, which apparently how no ethanol. Now that Esso do a 99RON fuel to rival V-Power/Tesco Momentum, and my nearest fuel station is Esso, I've switched to using that. Since then, no crickets.

Thanks Lauren, that's good to hear, as I can check and change the links easily myself. The car has been checked twice since the link was installed (inspected after the recall and a video sent to me where they mentioned the drop links looking fine, funnily enough) and also went through the MOT. But if it's only a tiny split, then it could easily be missed. And the car has been driven in some torrential weather lately...so water ingress is likely I guess.

Did you only get the noise when turning? I'm skeptical about it being drop links because they are less than 6 months old, and I'm not getting any other noise over bumps, etc. When they failed before (and on every car I've had with failed links), they've made a right racket while driving, but never when stationary. I will check them out though. They would be less of a hassle to replace, so here's hoping!

He's referring to Abbey, Fensport and Tuning Developments.

I think everyone else here is best qualified to answer (and already had)....I have neither a SC or a Turbo, I have kept mine NA with just a new exhaust manifold and a remap (at Abbey). I just wanted to suggest Abbey as they're much closer to you, so definitely worth a shout. Best of luck deciding!

Consider Abbey Motorsport too, they're based at Oxted in Surrey, so even closer to you (under an hour from Basingstoke maybe?). Well regarded in this community, so worth contacting them for advice. Pretty sure you could buy the TD kit and have it fitted and tuned by Abbey if you don't want the 7 hour round trip.

You could try this: https://toyota.epc-data.com/86/zn6/ The specific diagram looks like it's here: https://toyota.epc-data.com/86/zn6/183230/electric/8106/81735/ Click on the relevant part in the diagram and it should bring up the Toyota Part Number. Edit: Took a screenshot of what I think it is....

Mishimoto Silicone Intake Hose (Black) Eliminates the output hose to the factory sound generator, so nice upgrade if you're looking for a tidier engine bay. Also includes: - A rubber cover to blank off the sound generator itself (if you don't remove it entirely). - A metal blanking plug which you can use if you wish to remove the stock intake resonator (which fits to the bottom of the intake hose) for a bit more noise. I've only had this on my car since March when I bought it off another member here who had on for a bit before selling their car, so I think it's done, at most, a couple of thousand miles. Still in excellent condition and comes with original packaging. These sell for around £100 new. Price: £55 (inc. delivery) Item located in Rochester, Kent.