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Just spent this morning replacing the drop links (just went OEM as they were fairly cheap even from Toyota). It was definitely part of the issue...you can see in the video below how worn they were. The one shown is the drivers side, but the passenger side wasn't much better (and ended up being a complete pig to remove). https://youtu.be/lv8QNELMP_8 The noise is now much quieter, and it's stopped rattling over rough surfaces. However, the low speed creaking is still there...buts its definitely not as bad. So I think the ARB bushes might need replacing too, like you said. Is that fairly easy to do, if you did it yourself? I have a good array of tools, but not a lift so I have to work with the car on jackstands. And have the uprated bushes casued any more noise/vibration?

I've just had to drive around the M25 to Brentford and I was noticing it more. Its become a bit of a rattle at lower speeds even on level ground. I get a feeling that whatever it is, the concrete washboard section of the M25 might have made it worse... so you might be right about the drop links. When I got to my destination I got out and gave the wheels a rock but they feel fine. As soon as I get home I'm going to get under and have a look.

Pretty sure you can just use brake fluid, DOT4 should be fine... It might even state it on the filler cap.

Hi all,I'm selling this system on, as despite being one of the quieter systems available, I was running it with a catless manifold and sports cat, and it was still a little loud for my taste.I bought this off another member on the Owners Club in March, and he provided me with his original proof of purchase from new in April 2019. I've had the system fitted for only 4 months and have covered about a 1000 miles, at the most.The system is in excellent condition with no leaks, cracks or damage. There are a couple of tiny scratches on the tips...however, as the tips are burnt titanium, I'm told you can remedy this by heating them and the blueing should return. I've given the tips and most of the backbox a going over with Autosol, although a thorough clean wouldn't go amiss.Location: Item is located in Rochester, Kent. Due to the size and the fact I don't have a box, I can't post it, so collection only I'm afraid. However, I am often visiting family in east Anglia (Thetford, Stowmarket areas), so if you live that way, I'd be happy to bring to a prearranged place on the way. I'd also be happy to drive a little (say 30 mins) to meet if it would make collection easier.The midpipe is supplied in 2 sections with a clamp, so along with thr backbox, it can be easily transported in the boot of a GT86.Price: £600 ono. Pictures attached.

This has now been paid for and collected, so the thread can be closed.

This is now provisionally sold, pending payment and collection. I will update when the transaction is complete and the thread can be closed.

I can't help you with what size spacers you need, but I have 15mm front and 20mm on the rear (purely for looks, not functionality, bite me) and there is practically no effect on handling. The steering is maybe slightly heavier, but I'm not sure if I can actually feel that, or if it's just a placebo because I know that it should be heavier. One unintended advantage of spacers - slightly widened track makes negotiating speed cushions a bit easier

Just tried this and I'm not sure it's made a huge difference tbh. My gap was nowhere near as bad as some other examples I've seen though, so maybe it's just diminishing returns. On the plus side, I didn't have to remove the bumper...just undoing the side indicator and taking a clip out from there I was able to pull the bumper forward enough to fit this clip. Very fiddly (the clips are tiny), but managed it. Im not going to do the drivers side...it wasn't as bad, and now they look roughly even. It just looks like "bad panel gaps", rather than "bumper falling off". Stupidly, I forgot to take a 'before' picture, too.

Almost a year on from this post and I never got around to fixing it myself. But last month I was looking into the problem again and found that they sell these little clips on Japan Parts, and they aren't charging 15 quid each. Instead, I was able to get 2 of them for 17 quid, delivered. Overnight parts from Japan, yo! Although not overnight. I ordered on the 19th May and they turned up this morning. That's a little job to attend to in my time off this week

Oh no...

It sounds a little metallic. Do you have an aftermarket manifold? It sounds almost like it could be the manifold making contact with the metal undertray when the engine is twisting slightly under load. I had something similar, a metallic rattle, after fitting an Ace header - it would rattle on the undertray, but only when accelerating through certain RPM ranges. I fixed it by taking off the under tray and applying some "percussive maintenance" (ie, i found the raised rib portion of the undertray that was making contact with the manifold and flattened it with a lump hammer. If that's the problem, fairly easy to diagnose - just take off the undertray (only a few bolts holding it on) and go for a drive.

I would second this. Try and shift it backwards and forwards and see if it cracks off. I imagine it might take a little more exuberance with an automatic as the torque converter is allowing some slip.

I think it's this. There is an identical box mounted behind the trim which holds the Start button. OP - are you still able to open the boot with the key in your pocket while the car is locked?

Great stuff. Puts my mind at ease a bit. I'll ring them later to book it in. Thanks very much

Hi Mango...did you end up getting your recall work done at Beadles Medway? I've just had my recall letter through, and Medway is my closest branch, just wondering if you had any issues? I'm afraid I don't have a lot of faith in main dealers at the best of times, I'd be more comfortable knowing if Medway had some experience with this recall though. My car is also serviced and modified by Abbey (manifold/remap). Apologies for the thread bump.

If it's aftermarket manifold, I'd say checking the clearance between it and the undertray should be your first port of call, definitely. I have the ACE CS400, and when fitting, the undertray bolts needed some washers added to add some clearance, but even so, it would vibrate against it under load. The problem was solved with "percussive modification" of the undertray (ie, I flattened the part of it which was rubbing using a lump hammer).

I won't claim to be an expert on mechanical, but I think this guy might be correct. Generally a rattling noise is terminal, because it's something like a big end bearing failure, but surely this would manifest itself at all times when the engine is on - not just when the car is under acceleration. I would echo some of the suggestions above. Forget Toyota - they aren't going to honour the warranty for an engine failure as you've had it remapped, and to be honest, that's fair enough, so anything they do they will make you pay through the nose. Get in touch with someone reputable (as above Abbey Motorpsort or Fensport are probably your closest) and see what they say. Hopefully Gaham86 is right and it will be something like injector failure - it might still not be cheap, but hopefully it wont be terminal. Best of luck mate.

(Cross-posting from Owners Club forum) I wanted to try a relatively common modification for this car which is to install the Whiteline KDT925 differential bushing inserts (rear inserts only). I can occasionally feel a little bit of slop when modulating the throttle - nothing major, but apparently the bushing inserts help make the car feel a bit more "taught", and also apparently help alleviate the slight clunk you get when shifting into gear at a stop*. Usually, I wouldn't bother, but they are relatively cheap and it's the kind of install that one can do on the driveway. That, and I fancy a bit of tinkering However, at the last service at Abbey back in January, Scott mentioned to me that the differential bushings were looking a little worn. Probably not unexpected at 75K miles, and not enough to cause concern, but he said keep an ear out for any clonking noises, etc, which might mean they need replacing. If I'm going to try the Whiteline inserts, I figured it would probably be best to replace the OEM bushing at the same time. But of course, I'm not having much luck looking for OEM parts, because most searches for GT86 bushings give results for aftermarket replacements. Anyone know (A) somewhere I can look up the part numbers for the OEM bushings and (B) is it possible to replace the actual bushings yourself? Installing the Whiteline bushing inserts looks easy enough. I just don't know about the bushings. If it's not possible then I'll just have to wait until I can get it to Abbey, but I'd like to have a try myself if it doesn't require any special tooling. *For anyone who isn't aware of the issue I'm talking about, there's a good demonstration here. This video is made by Whiteline to demonstrate the effectiveness of their subframe bushings. But if you keep an eye on the differential bushings (on the left of the video, in the middle of the subframe), you can see how much they flex on acceleration/deceleration). The differential inserts can reduce this. I should also add, that I would only be looking to do the rear diff inserts - the kit includes front diff inserts, but they are much harder to install, and you can apparently get almost the same improvement without them, with slightly less NVH. https://youtu.be/IDfJ_zYFPcs?t=24

Thread bump! My bumper is sagging a little. Thought I'd phone the Subaru dealer, see how much those clips were in the service bulletin...looks like something I could fix myself in about 20 minutes. £15.82 each and no stock in the UK. Three week wait from Japan. Probably easier and cheaper to get hold of some scrap metal and make something yourself. As far as I can see, it's just a metal shim to reinforce the plastic and stop it from rounding. EDIT: In fact, thinking about it, there's can of Carslberg that's been sitting in my fridge since it was brought to my house for a barbecue about 4 years ago. Can't bear to drink it, but now I won't feel bad pouring it down the sink so I can recycle the can and make something myself

Managed to find an exploded diagram of the rear sub frame with the part numbers for the bushings...41651 and 41651A. Don't look to hard to replace so I'll see if I can get them from the local dealer before getting the Whiteline inserts.

Indeed. The good thing about this mod is it's easily reversible. I intend to give it a try but remove them if it makes the car too noisy.

This is where I get concerned. Most reviews have said there's only a small increase in noise, and generally at low speeds - but not even enough to be audible over a louder exhaust, or even the radio. My car isn't driven daily anymore, but I'd still like to keep increased in NVH to a minimum, but it can of course be a subjective measure. Did you install the inserts to the front and the rear bushing inserts? I read that you can just install the rear inserts(which are easier to access), which takes out a lot of the slack without increasing noise too much. This is probably what I'd do.

I've not seen much from UK forums, apart from people mentioning they've installed them. There's more experiences on the US forums if you have a cast around, for instance: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64364 I'm not too badly affected by it, but seeing that vid of the movement and seeing how cheap the inserts are, it's the kind of minor modification I'd like to make to see if it helps how the car feels.

Never had an issue driving the car daily, but I started to experience problems with my passenger wing mirror when I stopped using the car to commute and only used it infrequently. I once left it about a week and on start up, the mirror refused to unfold (I have the auto folding module so they unfold on ignition). I shut off the the car and press the ignition again and it unfolded fine. I squirted some WD40 into the mechanism which seemed to sort it for a bit, but the issue did come back. Next time I washed the car I gave the whole housing where it meets the support arm a good blast with the pressure washer. Again, this seemed to fix it, but it has happened once or twice since. I reckon it's just starting to stick now that it's being used less. A bit annoying, but now when I get in the car, I tend to just press the ignition only (which causes the mirrors to unfold) and check they open correctly, then I start the engine. If they don't unfold, they usually do so on the second attempt.

Does anyone know where I can buy some proper fitted seat covers for the rear seats only? Occasionally I need to transport our dogs in the car. They are happy to sit in the back, and are usually clean, but I like to cover the seats just to stop their claws scratching the leather on the seats or the plastic hump between them. The best I can do at the moment is use a big fleece throw rug, but even when tucked in over the back and around the sides of the seat cushion, it has a tendency to get pulled up and move around once they get in. Searching for specific fitted seat covers only seems to throw up results with "GT86" in the description and pictures of generic covers which I suspect will be crap. Anyone know where I can find a set gauranteed to fit our car neatly and securely?