BRZ-123

You were right on that one. I did expect it but now realise it was that much of a difference. I am sure Automatic cars MPG must be super high then Thank you. It does help setting expectations. As a daily, up and down the motorway, i don't think i will want to live with the extra noise though as church says, a electronically controlled exhaust, which activates when you put your car into sport mode but does not when its in normal mode, will be the dream set up.

Thanks for sharing and first I have heard about the super res. For the EL vs UEL, the generalisation does not apply for TD as the difference is miniscule either way, i.e. power or torque. So sound is the only deciding factor. For generalisation, what revs are you at when doing 70 mph on m way, with your final drive? With a manual, you are at 3K revs. Does the exhaust come alive at revs above a certain RPM or Wide Open Throttle or is constantly on and hence show off mode [emoji57]? Do you get a drone at mway speeds? Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

There is a reason for it. Subaru do not have direct UK presence. Subaru of Japan sell it to subaru of Europe in the Netherlands who then sell it to International Motors, the subaru UK franchisee. This increases the cost. Toyota of Japan buy it from Subaru of Japan and send it to their UK distribution which is why it comes cheaper. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

There are other ways too and more old school. Put a sand bag into your boot to increase laden weight on driven rear wheels or even better have a full size spare in the boot to increase weight.

Same here and the whole idea of finding a friendly mot tester. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

Looks really good. The EL looks inspired by Ace design and is not an up and over design so better engine bay heat management. Could you share your gains/dyno charts to give us all an idea of actual gains to be expected. Also how much does it cost, is the other question that comes to mind. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

Thank you both. Maybe then 215/50 for the road will give enough sidewall cushion. Sure, the side effect will be handling. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

Good man. 7 mm gap + reflective wrap should be good enough! Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

Well done for doing it yourself and creating a gap between manifold and the pipe. The heat had nearly eaten into the coolant pipe. Did you heat wrap the new pipe? Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

Can we go 225/45 on the OE 17*7 rim and will it make the car better at handling bumps in daily driving? Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

There is a bit of a faff there with Subaru. Toyota comes out cheaper many a times. The reason for Subaru being a bit more exp on parts is that Subaru of Japan export it to Subaru of Europe ( i think based in NL iirc) who apply their margin and send it to IM (International Motors), UK franchisee of Subaru. So there are 2 margins and 2 shipping charges added to the product while Toyota Japan buy it from Subaru Japan, stick a label on with part number and send it straight to their Toyota GB saving one round of commission and shipping.

Is there a way to physically increase the gap between the manifold and coolant pipe? I would suggest doing that alongside the heatwrap will be the best approach. Did bulldog do only that part or are selling you the whole radiator pipe kit?

Amazingly detailed. Many thanks for sharing and is very useful info. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

The manifolds and exhausts are no longer made at JP. They are now made in house at TD.

There is more to it than that. I have spoken to mike in the past and his advise was that the cat will get damaged quite quickly if you continue to run with it. The OE CAT cannot sustain the high flow and was not built for it. So it is not simple to solve that one.

This is also a risk, if you get a bit of a frontal impact. the manifold can bend and impact the pulleys and make it a much more expensive repair than what it would be. Design wise Ace (not up and over) like design does have an advantage and also from a engine bay heat management perspective.

Ej20 2L NA, FB 2.5L NA, reasonably performant though you can always debate how performant. IIRC they also had old 6 cyl NA in legacy.The turbos in impreza/WRX STi do not mean Subaru have only made turbos chief. D4S is Toyotas contribution even as per their marketing schpiel and may be some know how to integrate it. Every manufacturer knows how to do direct injection or port injection. Combination is Toyotas patent. Subaru designed the new oil pan to lower CoG and front intake. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

There are a few like you Iain and Church. I am again one of them who is wholeheartedly happy with the car. Stunner to look at, drives exactly how I want it to (handling), just enough power to not lose your license pretty damn quick on public roads and the joy of downshifting to access power to overtake quickly. Without a loud exhaust, sound symposer is another thing that I love as it gives the in cabin noise when planting the throttle without letting the outside world know what hooliganism you are upto. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

I did say supercharged was a good option (para 3) but Cost is why they did not do it. Yaris GRMN is a commuter car platform fettled and sold for £26,295 while a regular Yaris is £12,995 i.e. 100% premium over a standard car. GT is a totally new non shared platform, so they have to make cost compromises and not throw in boost which is why an aftermarket super/turbo for 5K to 6K is a steal on a car worth 25K (20% premium). Doing the manifold and tune makes the GT good enough, at least for my liking but each to their own.

Why go for full winter tyres in Essex , my friend. If you were in Scotland , makes more sense. A good set of Michelin Cross Climates will be best suited to the southern winters and also can be continued through the summer.

If we continue your turbo for all theory, everyone who went aftermarket super charged should've gone for a turbo. Everyone who went NA manifold should've saved up for their turbo upgrade. On a different example, there are 2 forum members (alucardo and senna, i believe) who have gone for Cayman with the old school NA 981, not the new Turbo 718. Turbo is not linear, with a bi turbo you can get close but still not the same as NA. The linearity of throttle response and no surprises as to when it gets on boost (and changes characteristic) and when its off, is what NA fans look for. Supercharger is close to NA response but a lot more power, so that is what factory could've put. But these cars were built to a cost, and this is not the equation we want to go down. The next GT could be Hybrid and NA is the right engine choice to go down hybridisation. So it is also future proof , leaving you with your aftermarket to choose turbo. "Sorry, i am blinkered and will not trade the NA engine for a turbo"

@church has answered the first point you make brilliantly. On the other one, there is only one tuner, who does before readings properly for every car, which is TD. If you see their map posts , there are some in 180s but many in 190s too. There will always be some variation engine to engine. Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

For what purpose? If it is Diff , you are OK, if its gear , you need 75W-90. See screenshots from user manual. Answers your quantity question as well. Ours is with LSD

Kind of a natural progression as you say, boxer engine is the common denominator and the only other manufacturer to make it. Up the value chain it is. Enjoy and drive safe! Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Tapatalk

A few points here and let me try to be specific - 1. If it were easy pass, people above are stating that they scraped through or even failed for a header change aka first cat removal. So our cars do not easily pass MOT. It is a tight pass and there is a bit of get your cat hot theory applied (or a friendly mechanic). 2. Older gen cars have different criteria. Please check page 176 of emission protection from DVLA, which is what MOT testers use and each and every make and model is listed. TVR Griffith/Chimera being older cars are just below Toyota in alphabetical order and hence prove this point. Over a period of time CATS are bound to fail and removal of a CAT and a DPF ( in case of diesels) in itself is a MOT fail, https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/676700/in-service-exhaust-emission-standards-for-road-vehicles-19th- edition.pdf I am talking of principles here of having a CAT is to reduce emissions. Removing it is counter intiutive, though not illegal yet like a DPF removal. Every one has a right to his/her own decision, which i do not deny but "long term" cars passing MOT with only one cat is dicey. Short term issues keep surfacing now and again anyway.