BRZ-123

Sorry , can't specifically answer the metal question as I don't have a magnetic drain plug. Do you still have the oil with you? If yes, you can buy an oil analysis kit from Millers Oils for about £50 and send it to them for feedback. You will exactly and scientifically be able to gauge what exactly is happening. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Well , Subaru dealers are used to dealing with high performance Imprezas and WRX Stis and some highly modified examples. So are probably the best place to take them. It will most likely fail the first test and they will need to do a fast idle test to make it pass. See the picture for what happened to mine when I did it. Is it Bulldog Twyford? Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

The intercooler core is visible through the grille. So Boosted is all i see in this picture.

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Is that from your Toyota manual@Leeky or from a different country? My Subaru manual says 5W-30 not 5W-20 as an alternate oil choice , which is much more widely available. Interesting! Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

My last service kit. All fluids ( Engine oil, diff oil, Brake and clutch fluid) Millers top of the line CFS. I did say I am OCD on this though. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Odd that you needed oil badly. Is your car burning/ losing oil as these motors rarely need a top up outside of regular service intervals.? How much did you need to use from that 1L bottle. Oils are a very emotive topic. Easiest is to give it to a reputable garage who use quality branded fully synthetic oils like Mobil1, Shell Helix Ultra, Castrol Edge. With oil weight , you also should look for API SN certified. Now to doing it the OCD way. Buy a Millers oil test kit for circa £50 and do an oil analysis everytime you change to test your oil and engine health. What I will recommend is a Grade 4 PAO or Grade 5 Ester based synthetic. The big brands that I mention above are Grade 3. This then limits you to Motul 300V, Gulf Competition, Fuchs Titan Race and Millers CFS or Millers EE Nanodrive which are the best of the best. Best place to buy these are online from Opie Oils. Am sure this GR oil will be Ester based Grade 5 synthetic, hence the high sticker price. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

https://media.toyota.co.uk/toyota-gr-86-to-make-world-dynamic-debut-at-the-2021-goodwood-festival-of-speed/ Pictures look good, both red and white! Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Please ask on that too.. hardware upgrades like engine internals , gearbox, clutch etc. I am unsure if they will have the answers but definitely worth trying. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Just please ask if you can , if the intake manifold dimensions are the same as our cars, if yes existing SC set ups can be bolted on straight, I would expect. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Have you got them done Martin? Any feedback will be ideal. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Toyota will put their OE oil which will be a fully synthetic 0W-20. You are fine with it for the 3K Road miles and track day. Just buy an OBD2 dongle and use the torque Pro app to monitor oil temps. If it goes above 120C, go for a cooling lap and back to the pits. If you want a different brand use Millers EE Nanodrive but keep the same viscosity unless you go FI. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

If finances are impt , use your local guy. Euro Car parts / CarParts4Less are same company. Pick Brembos or Pagid from them and replace. Discs don't always need doing, unless you did track time , every 2 pads , one set of discs is thumb rule. Just get pads done and see of you really need discs,your local can advise. On time taken discs + pads front and rear is about 3 to 3.5 hrs altogether. Just pads should be done in less than 2 hrs. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

The eco friendly GT among the [emoji269]. Long may it live.

My paper analysis says that he 2.4 has same stroke , just more bore , so should be the same width and fit. Lets validate it after launch. [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

I have been looking at some stats and every car I compare to / with, our cars torque figures are quite low when turbo/ supercharged. Let's take examples : 1. GR Yaris with a 1.5L turbo it makes 380 NM torque 2. Golf GTi with a 2.0L turbo makes 370 NM 3. Civic Type R with a 2.0L turbo makes 400 NM. All of them Road legal and catted. Ours on the other hand , makes only around 300 NM with FI(both turbo and SC). Why is the potential torque low technically compared to other engines? Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

It's interesting what you say and fair point the factory FA20F engine having higher torque. The compression ratio of that engine is 10.6:1. Conrods are no different to the FA20D AFAIK. So I think high compression FI means lower torque (not necessarily lower power) as power figures are in the same ballpark as other 2.0 boosted engines. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Wow! So you have one bolted onto your car and one boxed kit stored up. That's a very clever thing to do and should be worth your investment. If the kit will fit the new 2.4L engine, then it's likely to be even more precious/ cover a wider audience [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Wow this is interesting. Do not judge a book by its cover. Your car is modified right Nik? How will the warranty even work with modified cars, i do not know, even if we get it serviced from/by Toyota.

This is so far the best video I have found of the GR86. Will re listen to it tonight but in summary: 1. More aluminium than before: Roof and Front Fenders 2. Better intake to reduce air vortex 3. Bigger injector and intake valves 4. Sensible active aero without over doing it 5. More precise gear shift feel And much more.. So its not just a stick some cosmetic mods on and sell it as second gen. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

@Jay Bamrah your chance to own this mega kit. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

These are an amazing set of wheels. I think you are not doing it justice just advertising it here. You must advertise it on the Facebook groups - Gt86 parts for sale and also 5*100 wheels and rims if i remember correct and they will get picked up in a jiffy.

From this chain, the only conclusions I can draw is that the HKS kit has had known faults and numerous fails from looking at various forums. It is potentially fixed but details are very sketchy if not opaque to say the least and there is no documentation to be pointed to and HKS have not done a recall for what was a shoddy product. It is not recommendable hence. What is still very unclear is whether HKS honor the warranty or the authorised installer does and if they did let the OP down. If its the latter, I can see why OP is upset and if its the former, the resolution needs to be with HKS who are also letting the OP down who seems to be between a rock and a hard place. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

The coilpacks are Delicious [emoji2] Let us know how you get on. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk