BRZ-123

A bit older than you and a bit longer no claims but that doesn't matter much. lol. It is an add on which works as a fixed fee with Admiral as the power gain is less than 10%. You will be lucky to gain 15 bhp. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Unfortunately mid pipe will not help much. The aftermarket catbacks design it to avoid the weird bend that leads to the axle back straight rather than through the side , giving it less muffler area in back box. So its a flow thing , not a noise thing except resonator bit which you shouldn't cut out or you get drone. If you get an aftermarket manifold, which will get rid of the first cat. That will substantially take your noise levels up. The other option is to get a cat back that is loud enough for you , like milltek or even a resonated cobra. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Not OEM currently. Motul now. I also went down the oil change route , when that did not work , I changed the clutch line with a goodridge Braided line reading a forum post and hoping that would help. All placebo effect waned off after a few days and nothing changed. This was 4 years ago and my gearbox is still fine [emoji846] So I've given up and see it is as a characteristic. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

So someone else is on a similar track of thinking and has asked for interest in FB on kits .. details below so you might want to explore and compare and contrast ≈===========≈ I wonder if anyone would be interested in purchasing brackets that allow you to run RS250 Megane Brembos on a GT86? These will also fit BRZ and Subaru Imprezas After looking at the price of second hand Brembo items I just couldn’t stomach the cost. 15-20 year old calipers that will more than likely need a rebuild and have probably been heli-coiled cause of galvanic corrosion. The MEGANE RS250 Brembos can be purchased brand new for approx €300-350 from lots of sellers on EBAY. The piston sizes are equivalent to the OE optional extra Brembos found on the 2017+ cars. Anyway I’ve designed these brackets that are made from billet aluminium and are KTL coated. For those of you who are not familiar - KTL coating is an automotive standard coating that is electro plated to these brackets. Using off the shelf Subaru WRX STi discs 326mm vs. 294mm & Brembo pads. This is a 100% bolt on solution. I would sell the brackets with all the associated hardware - GR10.9 bolts in automotive geomet coating. Then it’s just up to you to go to your local motor factors and buy the parts. All associated part numbers etc. will be supplied with the kit also. Please reply to this post if you are interested. I would need minimum 10. off confirmed orders of the brackets before I am able to get them manufactured. Approx €200 Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

I don't have the newer model, but being an owner for a while can tell you that the gearbox is generally bullet proof with no reliability issues. It can how ever be a bit temperamental with the notchiness in those places you mention, two to three or three to two... I have tried everything and got no result except placebo. So my honest advise will be to get used to it and see that as a characteristic feature not as a limitation that needs to be addressed.

And there is a good reason to it. Not many people crash these cars. The lower the accidents or thefts, the lesser the risk. BTW, Admiral charged me 25£ additionally for the TD manifold and Remap. So it's worth asking and is not a big premium. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

You know it best. 😀 Just plain logic to not for it to activate when switching while driving. Otherwise its too risky. Fair?

I believe the Immobiliser setting works only if the car is switched off. It will not switch on as the start up fueling is set to zero . With a running engine, it should not immobilise as it is very risky if a user error happens. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

If it ain't broken don't try to fix it will be my advise. @will300 s advise is sound, turn it around to see the brand. Also there is a chance that the ECU might be remapped after the intake change, Pull the cruise control lever towards the steering and have a look if the rev needle sticks to 1000, 2000, 3000 0r 4000 revs. If yes, it has been remapped and i will not change the intake unless you want to flash the tune back to stock as well.

Important question Jay - Are you in for it for the sound or for performance gains? If you are in for the former, then super res it is as with a decatted manifold it gets very loud otherwise. If you are in for the latter, there is really not much in it, so not worth it.

Still not a problem. MX5s run 13:1 and other mazda skyactiv petrols 14:1. FI exists for them. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

That's an interesting observation. You reckon that's to run longer track sessions [emoji848] Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Together shot Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Hi Dave, DDX919 afaik is only wired AA not wireless, so worth double checking. Just wireless phone mirroring. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Enjoy the car. Its extremely reliable with all niggles fixed in your iteration. Just possibly a low Ah battery which might need replacement, unless done in warranty. Worth checking if it's 45Ah , if yes, then sooner or later time will come unless its a daily. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Worth asking fensport if they do it with both cats intact which I suspect not. The manifold needs to be changed for a turbo , so that makes you lose one cat anyway. The mid pipe seems to be a blocker too so most ask for that to be removed or if you insist replaced by a high flo cat. If you want to remain legal and pass MOT smoothly then superchargers are the way to go as you can easily retain both cats. SC with stock exhaust does not make it any louder. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Interesting take Adam. Let me give you a different perspective. The SC you had was effectively an engine driven turbo not exhaust driven aka centrifugal type. A turbo behaves the same unless you go bi/dual turbo. Most 86 turbos have nothing to give below 3K and then from 3 to 6K they are on boost and have go. For torque all round , that gives you the quick punch anywhere, you need the Positive displacement SC which the Cosworth , Harrop, Sprintex and Edelbrock are. Worth checking your TT as to what it's turbo boost range is or if it's a biturbo as in TT RS( I don't know much about their engines except the rs which is a 2.5L 5 cyl) Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

The above by@Leeky seems the best deal. Otherwise you can go to tayna.co.uk and the 2 big brand choices I can suggest are Yuasa YBX3031, 3000, 72Ah, 630A , 18.4 Kg, dimensions 26.0*17.4*22.5 (£74.97 delivered) Varta 70Ah, 630A, E24DIN570 413 063 , dimension 26.1 cm * 17.5 * 22 ( to top of terminal) (£65.89) The prices may not be accurate as i noted it a while ago. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Sorry to hear mate and thanks for notifying others who can benefit from this advise. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Curious why did you get it off Adam? Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Agreed on 5W30. 0W30 is actually best of both worlds. Cold start plus better for track. May be it was a mis type but that's what I am using. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Including installation? That's not a bad price considering ours are Boxer engines and is not easy or quick to change the plugs. Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Relax man. Nothing lost. Totally safe Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

True both can be used but for non boosted 0W20 is preferred or prioritised. So Subaru says Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Interesting. What happened to Carlimits Adi? Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk