mart86

As stated above that is the correct one. The camera also has to be powered up before the head unit as I found out when I wired mine in with the reverse lights initially. Mine is wired from the 12v ant power behind the head unit with an in line fuse to protect the cable. Running 2 years with a cheap Chinese £10 camera with no issues.

All that for about £6 Inc fees. Clearly states open to offers too. Can only imagine the rage when Hmrc shafted him for import charges 🤣 maybe that's how his circumstances changed.

Mine takes near enough the same time to warm up now with turbo and no oil cooler. I know this because I've monitored before/after fitment and don't press on until it's fully warmed up.

At least you done the right thing by paying for a product and not paying family/friends. Just watch out incase he sends an empty box. Refuse any delivery that comes from him. Noticed he'd only just signed up when he listed these for sale.

Looks immaculate! There used to be kits available circa £120. But you can just buy a camera and the adapter separately and wire it yourself. Cost me £30 all in. I believe it's a 16 pin connector pre 17 reg for the stock head unit. And if I remember correctly it has to be Ntsc not pal. Otherwise its a grey grainy picture with stock head unit. If you're upgrading the head unit you won't need the adapter though.

Happy with the service so wouldn't really bother me. Would just continue to make a day out of any visits. Collection/delivery would come down to cost vs convenience. Any ideas of a location? Need to book in for a service & mot in June so just don't move before then 😂 Which reminds me, did those orange K Sport brakes ever come in? Said you'd let me know but haven't heard anything.

I'm running 245/40/17 PS4's on a 9" wheel. Running TD stage 1 turbo. Went with a lightweight wheel to keep unsprung mass down and still shaved 1-2lbs off a corner. I was going to change from the primacy's no matter what as they didn't give the levels of grip I wanted especially on wet roads even at low speeds. It now sticks like sh!t on a dry road and will have to push it past 9/10 to break traction. It will still get tail happy on wet roads when pushing it but it's very predictable. I think that's more down to the PS4's compound than the size. You won't have any problem on an 8" wheel or 225 tyre. Like others have suggested I'd stick with what you have and see if you're happy with it. I changed mine at the same time as I was still running stock wheels and tyres.

Pm sent

What sports cat are you using?

That's good to know. Do you know if it's compatible with the TD kit? From the overpipe back that is.

I opted for the Berk high flow cat. Mike couldn't get it to work correctly. If I remember, something about retarding the timing? So give that one a miss if you were thinking of it. I'm tempted by the Avo world 3" full exhaust with catalyser. Surely this would work as its designed for the Avo turbo kit.

Chinese and a German national seem to be in ties and have had multiple companies dissolved. Funnily enough the administrators have been the same ones each time and are claiming huge fees each time. Looks like a fiddle. I bet a new company pops up soon enough with the same 2 directors. Avoid at all costs.

This isn't a hardware fault. It's a software issue. Mine has done this since day one and is a known issue. It happens if you make adjustments using the built in equaliser. If you set it to default and restart your head unit it shouldn't happen again so long as you don't adjust it. Use another eq app.

Looking at recent reviews I wouldn't recommend them either. Warranty is pretty much non existent. They're not a UK registered company. When I got mine I'm sure they had a UK address and warehouse and didn't pay any import duty. They don't support UK registered re-sellers with warranty claims which is probably why car audio point has gone into administration. Are you having the same issue as before? I'd open it up and check the thermal paste on the main chip. It's a well known issue with these units. If they're not honouring their so called warranty then you really have nothing to lose.

My 2017 86 was getting an average of 37 mpg stock. That was a 20/30/50 town/a roads/motorway. Not hanging about either but roughly sticking to motorway speed limits. With cruise control on over a longer motorway journey I would get 45 mpg. Surprisingly after going forced induction with 9 inch wheels and 245 tyres I'm still getting roughly 35 mpg with same driving style over same journeys. Obviously a fair bit less when playing.

I've seen a few issues with overheating on the px5 unit this is based on and people installing new thermal paste and heat sinks. Can you download a temperature app and check? Are you using the head units amp to power speakers? I've used a separate amp since installing which is why I may not have encountered any overheating.

This has now been sorted. Just had a nice lady call me to say it's been investigated and I was indeed told that the initial price would include forced induction upgrades. The excess charge is being refunded. Annoying that this has happened but it's been dealt with swiftly so restored some confidence in the company. Thank you Dan for escalating and resolving the issue.

Yes you are correct. Sorry it's been a while since I installed mine with the stock head unit. As far as I remember it was all plug and play and didn't need any modifications at all. Unfortunately I don't have my car at the moment to check for you. Double check the wiring and make sure you haven't got the head unit and amplifier trying to power the speakers at the same time, if that's even possible with those adaptors.

Is the amp correctly set to high level input? I think it's set to low level by default.

Not very happy with these at all. I originally got a quote and took out a policy last September after having a discussion about turbo charging in the near future. I planned to get it a few months later but plans got pushed back. I was assured that the price would be the same for anything under 300bhp and to just phone them up and they'll amend the modifications. The only modification I had at the time I took the policy out was a catback exhaust and paid almost double what my cheapest quote was. I've now phoned up to make the changes and have had to pay an extra £100 on top of the premium with only 3 months left on my policy. So would be £400 a year extra. A £30 admin charge. And excess has gone up £200 extra. Safe to say I'll be looking elsewhere come renewal.

All I've done is read the codes using carista app free version. Then used maxi programmer to program 4 new sensors using the same codes.

I've just had new wheels and fit tpms sensors to them. Bought the autel maxi sensors and programmer. Very easy to do. If you've got a obd Bluetooth/WiFi adaptor you can get the codes using the free version of carista.

Never had that but I loaded another firmware pretty much as soon as I got it. You could try start in bootloader/recovery and delete the cache. Other than that do a factory reset on that screen and hope it's not hardware related.

Does the camera have a power lead running along side the yellow RCA cable? It's been a while since I installed mine but just had a look. I remember that I bought an F Reverse ISO harness so that I didn't have to cut into the factory wiring. Took the 12v from the Acc/Switched wire which is the grey and red striped one. Put an inline fuse carrier in with a 1A fast blow fuse to protect the cable. You can take it from here or like Leeky said you can take it from the cigarette lighter.

Probably not the 'correct' way but I paid £10 for my camera & £10 for an adaptor. Rather than the £130 for a kit. Already had inline fuses and crimps etc. Camera is 12v so doesn't have a step down transformer so nothing to get hot. It is permanently on, it's fused so the camera and wiring is safe, and it's worked flawlessly for the past 18 or so months. Not sure if cadders has bought a kit or bought the camera and adaptor seperately?