Kaltorak

Huh, that's the exact setup I ran before I put on the bbk. The pads last about 3x as long in the bbk, and the disks look like they will crack long before wear becomes a problem.

Glazing the disks, no worries, glazing the pads, problem! What pads were you running with the BBK?

They do indeed, the 330 leave a small amount of the pad compound "free" and not in contact with the disk. It gives a lip to the pad, but other than that no issues with it. I track the car with the 330 K-Sports and stock rears. Cant fault them at all! The kit fits C5555 pads which gives great availability and range of choice.

I have 0 idea, sorry. This was proper junk I think 94ron.

I have a "junk" tune for when I can't get good fuel. I've used it once in France on a long journey. Going out with the good fuel I got about 40mpg and the car felt great. On the way back I got 32 and it just didn't respond as well. Same roads, same speeds. But hey, it was safer right?

Ahh gotcha. 1st speak to whoever is tuning it about your fuel situation. Maybe they could do 2 maps, one that's more Conservative with ignition timing and maybe more Liberal with the waste gate, then you can pick the tune on the fuel you're running. The car will pull timing naturally if it detects knock /detonation, but it's better to prevent it before than after.

If you're boosting it, you'll still need want the higher ron fuel. It helps with detonation. Your removing detonation risk by reducing compression ratio, but then you're increasing risk by boosting it. If you can afford to boost, you can afford 99

Do they do torque for ios?

I run 0w-20 and do about 8-10 trackdays a year, considering swapping up to 5w-30. Biggest thing to do is make sure oil temps are managed either via a cooler or tracking the temps via ODB. As others have said, above 120C I'd consider backing off and letting things cool down. I usually change the oil every 4-5 trackdays, IE half year. For what it's worth these cars heat their oil incredibly quickly if you're pushing on track. IE on longer tracks good luck getting 2 hot laps in a row.

Labour per axle if you havent done it before (and have the tools) Probably an hour or so. If its something you've done on other cars, 30-40mins or so per axle. Tools required: Caliper Retractor/big ass screwdriver 17&15mm socket (I think, but a socket set will cover you). Red/Silicon Grease for the slide pins, Copper Grease Torque Wrench Jack You can find the torque settings in the thread here. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19673 If youre doing the rear disks, you'll need to wind the handbrake off the disks by removing the rubber gromet from the disk, have that located at the bottom. The bit at the bottom of the pic with the spokes pointing out (visible through the newly revealed hole in the disk). Turn it one way with a screwdriver through the hole, it pushes/pulls the shoes from the disks, that will allow easy removal. Dont forget to wind it back in on the new set until tight and release it 2-3 notches otherwise the handbrake will do sweet FA.

Removal of an emissions device is grounds for instant mot failure even if you pass the emissions test. Main dealers tend to be quite strict on that one while an independent may not know what the stock headers should look like.

Ahh, you mean yellowstuff. Yea, they're fine and track.

I'll support those recommending some hard braking episodes. 5-10 stops from 60-20mph, if your eyes arent trying to escape their sockets, you didnt brake hard enough.

In an over braked car, you can push the pedal harder and you will get more bite. Sure it'll feel like a heavy pedal, but it will still stop harder, until you lock up the tires. In an under braked car, once you reach the critical temp, pushing the pedal harder won't do anything. It's fucking horrible to experience. Come to think of it that's just how I've always thought of it, not sure if I'm right, but it makes sense to me 😂... It's like knowing how to pronounce a word you've only ever read.... I've always know it that way as one has not enough capacity and that other has too much.

I don't entirely agree with a few of your points. As you said, tyres are the limiting factor, totally. But your idea on underbraking is the wrong way around. Underbraked cars cannot dissipate the amount of heat required to repeatedly slow the car. As you said steel disks mu value drops as it heats so they slowly lose braking capacity. Ceramics have nowhere near the drop off so it's much harder to have an Underbraked ceramic setup. Especially when you consider the amount of heat dissipated increases as the differential between the air and the disk increases.