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I just had exactly the same thing tonight temp 7 deg celcuis. Car had not been used for over a week so luckily I was at home not needing to go anywhere. No key-less unlock using the handle, nothing using the remote buttons. Red warning light was flashing on cluster though. I'd read about this thread recently and been meaning to check it! Tried both hidden keys in the remote, it would turn to "2 o'clock" to the right easily but only "11 o'clock" to the left. The physical key is useless as you can't hold/turn it easily even to use occasionally. Tried pentrating oil in the lock which promptly ran out under the handle down the door. After 15 minutes of swearing and moving right and left, it finally opened by turning to "10 o'clock" with a clunk. Opened the bonnet and connected up the battery charger and the alarm started very quietly. I would say its not the lock barrel but something in the linkage or door catch its self jamming or seizing. This post really needs to be a sticky as it will happen to all keyless owners at some point. So stupid design that the passenger door or boot does not have a key lock as an alternative.

Ok, as long as they aren't faded/scratched or cracked/split anywhere. Had to check to be sure.

I would say 95map is rougher round town, but this is not scientific! The biggest issue I have is the throttle maps are too aggressive in all maps for town driving.

I'll take these please if they are unmarked in mint as new condition. Please PM me your PayPal address with a postage price to UK mainland.

I'm not sure there is a general answer for your question. I believe which map does what is down to the engine mods and tuner setup not ecutek in general, as on mine map 1 is for 95, map 2 97, map 3 Shell Vpower and map 4 Vpower with the toys enabled.

I'm currently in progress of sorting this out as in the same situation but don't have the original wheels as an option for swapping so I've gone for option 2b. I have read the original sensors codes direct from the ECU and bought cloneable sensors and programmer for less than the prices quoted above. I've programmed them with the OEM codes. They are read ok by the programmer and the matching id is displayed. Not managed to get them detected by the car though, but this is without any pressure. I must admit I thought they would be detected but still report an error due to lack of pressure rather than not be detected. However I have read that they don't transmit when no pressure or even rotating (I don't believe rotation is an issue but this might depend on sensor make). I will post up when I make some further progress.

Thanks, thats interesting to hear. i take it you've tried various combinations then? I still have the springs so that could be a future option once I sort the knock out. The eibach roll bars have 2 holes, so would changing to the softer setting be similiar? when I find out the cause I'll post it up. What setup do you currently have?

My car was fitted with eibach lowering springs and anti roll bars. The ride on poor local roads was so harsh I changed the springs back to stock springs, but since doing this I'm getting a noise from the front right. It was perfectly fine before the change. At slow speed (crawling traffic) its a definite clonking/knocking almost regular with each turn of the wheels but as the speed gets faster its more like a regular noise like tire noise or a tennis ball boucing around the arch liner!. It does it on pretty flat roads rather than bumpy roads. I've taken the wheel off and checked the bolts/nuts are the right torque and there is no contact. I've also removed the spring again and checked the strut is not blown. I've also checked the strut brace nuts even though these were not removed. The suspension deals with large bumps and undulations fine. My suspicion is the drop links, as even though the bolts are torqued, the thread seems to be smaller than the strut hole. Is this normal? Video attached. Its driving me nuts and passengers can't hear it (unless its the slow noise) Any one else had something similar and how did you resolve? TIA P1110736.MOV

Well I think the cause of wreaking the drop links was 2 fold. The lower threads were very rusty, which had affected the size of the hex socket in the end of the thread, and the rusty thread made the nut difficult to get off. Due to the location its hard to clean up the end and threads and get the allen key in securely. I will definitely be trying to protect the new ones somehow. As expected the ball joints were actually fine which was a shame. I've checked the wheel visually and they are the same ones as before. I had thought about swapping the wheels but I've found that it clonks if I push down on the top of the strut under the bonnet. Thats why i thought it was the droplinks moving. I'm hoping its just the topmounts, but it could also be the lower ball joint or the steering ball joint. I will take a look again at the weekend. To be fair to the eibachs, the ride now on stock springs is still very stiff (but not as brutal) as there is more travel and the car did handle better and look very good lowered. For a track only car they would be perfect but as a daily road car too much.

So its not the drop links. I removed completely (and wrecked the hex socket in the process so need new ones now) and the noise is still there.

another attempt to reencode the video clip. P1110736iphone.mp4

I can't see how they could have been damaged really when dismantling. Think the ARB bushes are on 8k. Will try to check these too. Unfortunately the weather is really bad this weekend. I will probably start with new drop links, but if they still rattle in the strut hole I don't know what next.

Did you get stung by parcel force & customs on top of those prices?

;-) Where did you get this from? ok, I found them https://everythingvinyldecal.com/collections/fr-s-brz-86-faux-button

Thanks for the reply and links. I'm sure its related to the drop links too, but I couldn't remove the lower nut on them to test on the jack. I've converted the clip to mp4 which should play on phones. you can see at the bottom it looks like the paint has worn away from movement? Car has only done 12k and was fine before changing the springs. only other thing I can think is the eibach roll bar is on the hole at the end and with stock springs this is causing binding rather than vertical movement? P1110736.mp4

Thats why it should be added to the list in this thread ;-) However not all do it, I checked a colleagues 86 and it doesn't do it and hes not done anything to fix.

this.