Kodename47

It's easy enough to replace, they come as one with the glass. Mine "exploded" on the motorway and I got a 2nd hand replacement and did it on my drive. From memory a little bit of a pain but not difficult at all.

So it's going to be £30k then as I bet we'll only get the "Premium" version here. All in, I guess not bad and in line with expectations.

Really? I loved the GT but the engine was pretty much the thing I disliked the most; not particularly characterful in sound and powerband was meh. I had come from a near enough 9k rpm Honda though where the engine was the real heart of that car.

I meant changed the resistor in the OEM relay, I did this twice as I first put LEDs in the OEM front and rear lights, and then swapped to VLAND rears, which needed to change the resistors to work at all. Means you get the better OEM flash pattern. All the ones on eBay are the same, you might find the Valenti, TapTurn or other more expensive ones don't do this. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114284 The random activity will be down to the system voltage and resistance. Possibly if the alternator is providing more than 12v and whether the LED resistance changes as they heat up under use. It must be right on a threshold.

The side indicators are low wattage so have very little impact on hyperflash - I'm not even sure if they are on the detector circuit. So you're on the OEM flasher relay? If so, this has a resistor that determines the resistance that causes hyperflash. Some of the aftermarket flasher relays have a longer 1st flash, that really annoyed me, so I changed the relay. By doing this, I learnt a few things. As LEDs draw less current, you will get hyperflash as the comparison of the resistance vs the relay means that it picks up what it thinks is a failed bulb and hyperflashes. I also found that when one of my lights failed, verified as a short in the unit, that side would not function at all as I guess the resistance was so low that it couldn't function. I think that by removing the rear lights, this is also what you're simulating. Even hazards wouldn't work. An aftermarket LED flasher will lose blown bulb detection as it just outputs a signal no matter what but should work without issue

The pearl white is a multi stage paint. It's done in multiple layers, even body shops find it hard to match. I doubt that there is a single pot of paint that will match, it's probably just the base white.

It depends on how it's setup

As per, 13.5 and 12.5 have both been mentioned from "official" data. The fact that the stroke is the same so peak power is relatively in the same rev band would suggest that if they did do a 13.5:1 comp ratio they will have held back performance. It will also have an updated version of the D4S so that would help countenance any increase (if any) in CR. This is also not taking into account that static CR is not a great marker when you have AVCS that gives you a more dynamic CR.

I doubt it is higher given that there is less bhp per litre than the FA20. Seen a couple of figures banded about, but I reckon there will be little difference to the 12.5:1.

Lots of wishful thinking here. No he's not been involved AFAIK due to the Supra development - remember this has been going on for some time on the GR86. No chance of the 400Z making it to Europe - they aren't interested as it's not a key market so won't make it Euro compliant. The B48 Supra is as it's the BMW engine that's in everything. Also why you won't see a manual Supra - BMW don't mate a manual to anything other than a B48 and this is true in the Z4. I can't see a manual B58 at any point if the parent company don't and so the same will ring true if the GRMN-ish version arrives, possibly with the S58. I agree that I think the styling of the new car is very generic - I see the rear has Vauxhall look, but I think it's more wannabe NSX. It should be a better all round car and if the block is similar to the FA20 then you may find many of the SC and TC kits will work with little or no modification.

If I can convince the wife that I need a new car, I'd be up for this.....

If you're able to switch maps then it's no change in the map. If they disconnected the battery it would have reset the ECU so lost the fuel trims and pedal/throttle learning. You can reset the latter by turning the ignition on without the engine running and press the pedal a few times and then let it idle for about a min. Not sure why you'd need to disconnect the battery though. Other than that, maybe a MAF sensor issue or an intake leak from changing the filter?

Sold - May the new owner enjoy as many miles as I have!

The clip is one of the expanding type so if you can get a set of pliers on the opposite site then it'll come out quite easy.

Just reach up with your hand and pull it. Don't even need to remove any panels if you're happy laying face up in the footwell. You just need a light.