Kodename47

You're the 1st person I've heard that doesn't like them, I've only heard how good and grippy they are - but do require heat in them. My old AD08s (not Rs) were not good in cold or greasy conditions at all.

Well that's the 1st I've heard of that happening, I call BS. It'd also be rather hard to happen. Far more likely to blow a head off or the rod will break and blow a hole in the block; but you're not going to separate the block and definitely not on something with low boost. Plus you can build boost protection in with EcuTek to prevent those kind of events from happening. Just an FYI but this is a stock FA20 block,notice the "crack"

How it comes on boost is all down to specifying the right turbo. Most modern turbos aren't laggy unless you spec something huge. If you want to be 100% safe, don't put a SC or TC on the car.

They are surprisingly expensive aren't they. I seem to remember I found them for £15 a plug somehwhere but only made by Denso and no NGK equivalent, which is a shame. If it's getting done it's going in there. I just need to weigh up my options with the charger.

If the engine is out, I'd expect them to charge the cost of the sparks and 30 mins labour max as it'll add an extra 5 mins onto the job. From my knowledge of Toyota recalls, most less labour intense admittedly, is that they will take their time on the 1st few but then get the knowledge and then the process speeds up. I believe the same techs get to do it as well and based on the numbers each dealer will see at least a handful. I'm seeing my mate tomorrow so will pick his brains before I decide whether to send it in to them.

It's easy to say that when your is one of the straightforward ones. You have to remember that most of the PD superchargers will require coolant draining and correctly re-filling. Turbos and centri-superchargers will require the pipework to be removed and ensured there are no leaks upon install. I would say that in most of these cases there will be some work involved by the owner to confirm everything is as it should be. Being one of a handful that self-installed for me it's not a big issue but I can understand why those who aren't so mechanically minded why it might be. TBH I'm tempted to take the charger off of my car and trade it in, just because if I have to remove the blower myself I CBA or have the time to re-install it or be involved in the work required to do the above.

Speak to the dealer but I'll expect some form of payment will be required to remove the turbo and reinstall. Depending on the turbo setup it will range from relatively straightforward to quite costly. I imagine the engine is lifted and not dropped so clearance is required for that.

It is an interference engine. I think I've read it's 96 stated failures on the range of vehicles/engines stated as being at risk. "Stalling" is a very blanket way of saying failure. As TommyC said, if a valve spring fails it's likely to cause terminal failure of the engine. There have been a number of reports of the rockers failing on early engines in the states, that tends to blow a hole in head. It could well be that a valve spring failure is the cause.

ITB without a plenum (so traditional velocity stacks) will need to be Alpha-N tuned, not SD. SD requires manifold pressure. It would be costly to tune as it'll require massive time calibrating. SD or MAF tuning can be done if you keep some form of inlet manifold, not quite as long to tune as a result. The standard manifold isn't too bad for the peak RPM flow, most ITB cars suit a higher rev limit but to do that you'll need head work on the FA20 and oiling system improvements that no-one seems to have worked out. It's a lot of money for very little performance gain and really it's a choice of this or FI. It would make the car really lively if tuned well though as ITBs excel on throttle response if done well. The port injectors are installed in the inlet manifold so would be ok of they fit the new set up. The rails are attached to each pair from what I remember.

Open loop is no feedback, closed loop is where the O2 feedback is used to adjust fueling. You got those crossed but otherwise spot on. It's worth noting that there is not a long term trim but various ones stored and applied over the RPM range and fueling split. Fuel trims as above. The Subaru method for global knock control is basic using a method called advance multiplier. 2 ignition timing tables, 1 is the base table and the other the advance. The advance multiplier is just literally a multiplier for the advance table. As standard it is set to 0.7 and if the ECU picks up no signals it determines as knock the IAM will increase towards 1 in increments. If there are any signals that it determines as severe enough knock then it will stop increasing or even decrease the IAM. This is constantly changing unless at 1 with no knock, so running 95 RON fuel for a while won't make the ECU run worse once you switch to better fuel but it will take (not much) time to adjust. This is only part of the knock control strategy but the one relevant to general fuel quality. All the info you'll want is here: http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic1840.html Battery/ECU reset just clears fuel trims and the advance multiplier and learnt ranges for accelerator pedal/throttle position sensor and possibly a few other sensors. I re-calibrate the sensors straight after an ECU flash.

There is no re-adjusting, that's just how the manifold runs with the OEM cam timing. The ECU doesn't "learn" much at all.

Along with a very tasteful body kit no doubt

Warranty does not cover racing or competitive usage. There's nothing in there about track day usage not being covered. Also TGB did organise a couple of track days for owners. If you had a warranty issue during those do you think they'd be able to deny a claim?

V-Power has always been 99. There seems to be some thoughts that it's no longer 99 as not advertised as such, but one of my local stations has been re-built and it's branded as 99 on the new pumps so happy to keep running it

Or the fact that it's on is possibly masking a 2nd fault.....

She'll is 99 RON

It's probably down to stock and what they have and where. The UK may still be using up stock of the older units.

Heard mixed reviews of OEM replacement Brembos. Will be interesting to hear how well they last. @KevinA I think the only non-OEM equivalent I would use would be DBA. For your kind of use then it's a no brainer IMO, but for less regular or no track use then perhaps the extra £150 isn't going to be worth it. It's a shame that they are so expensive as if they were ~£150 rather than ~£250 I reckon that just about everyone would have them, but I believe that a large part of the extra cost is the import of them from Australia.

DBA are great, but mega money. There is no need for fancy discs unless you are already overheating the ones you have. I'll buck the trend and suggest OEM blanks, but at a better price. Ones that I can find as OEM quality (ie make discs that get rebranded as manufacturer) seem to be ATE, Bosch and TRW. Bosch discs can be had at good value, look here for example: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/bosch/8345994 10% back with Topcashback as well. TRW are also on that website but ATE don't seem to do much for the 86. Just remember when on these sites to confirm the front and rear disc sizes and types. I would also check whether the discs actually need replacing as well.

Just got mine from here: https://www.fancyplates.com/main/constructors/information/custom_size_plates.aspx Do the custom sizes. You could even try a 3/4 plate for the front if you want. £26 for front and rear. Just remember to add you want the BSAU 145d on the bottom.

Just unscrew the numberplate from the brick and you'll see the mounting bolts underneath. I have a short 5 digit on mine and the screws are nowhere near the edge. You an see it in the B and K:

A fair few have had an issue where it stops making boost and it's an expensive issue to repair.

Under cruise the ECU targets a set AFR, 14.7:1. While a bypass valve will be open so there won't be any positive pressure you are still having to spin the compressor which takes away some economy.

Any of the specialists really. You'll need to do some phoning around. I've stuck with Adrian Flux now for a number of years as I trust them and they always come out on top for mine. I've called many of the others and get "we'll not be able to get anywhere near that." Those that do get near AF have always matched or beaten. Others that get mentioned for mods will be (in alphabetical order) AIB, Brentacre, Chris Knott, Competition Cars, Greenlight, Keith Michaels and Sky Insurance.

@Leeky the LC is very much a GT and not a sports car, that's coming from a couple of people I know that have driven them. Still fun and a V8 and I do like the marmite looks but if going the Lexus route I'd be half inclined to go for an RC F over the LC.