Kodename47

There is no change in disc size. The WRX uses the same size discs.

The general thing you have to weigh up is cost vs quality. When going to the bother of a full body respray you want it to come out well and that costs alot. Getting it done in the same colour can be done cheaper as it requires less prep work but then you want to make sure it's being done by someone with a great reputation so the finish is top notch.

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Wouldn't matter. Primary O2 is upstream of the 1st cat. It flags this when the fuel trims are in excess of +30% or 35% (I can't remember which). Intake leak, MAF sensor issue or O2 sensors are the likely culprits.

There's no real benefit of keeping the whole system the same make FWIW. Also the quality and size of cat in the manifold will be the decider of whether it would pass an MOT. As Andrew said, better off with a decent cat in the front pipe and go decatted manifold, but that's just me. Power wise, leaving the OEM front pipe in will "lose" you such a small amount you'd never notice IMO.

Most of the bigger issues are noticeable, the VVT issue tends to make the car really lumpy especially at idle. You can still drive, it'll just drive like a load of crap. If it seems OK then it probably is.

New mix available, please like/share/follow etc. Trying to build my online presence. But I filmed it as well, a 1st for me:

The Ace is all under the engine so not an issue, the TD manifold would not be compatible.

That will depend on what compression ratio pistons you're going for and any other changes like stroke etc.

Ign on - but engine not running (2 presses of the button). Fully depress accelerator 5 times or so. Start engine and idle for about 1 minute. Job done.

Just to throw something different to the mix but if you have more torque then it could be advantageous to run a longer, rather than shorter, FD. Now the Cossie SC might not be of a big enough torque jump to make the best of it but plenty of guys in the US running a 3.9 or similar. This will keep you in the torque band for longer. Most Porsches are a good example of this where the gears are so "long," this is so that they make the most of the torque available.

The inlet manifold would be a good start. It's plastic so would be nice and simple, have a look where the OEM MAP sensor is.

That Stoptech package is quite pricey. Just doing pads alone will improve matters, many run the Stoptech pads and are seen as a fast road/mild track compound. Slotted discs increase wear, on a road car I would always advise standard blank discs. Unless the discs are worn, you could just replace the pads. I've just managed to source OEM quality (Bosch) rear discs for £45 for the pair, but that was the last on their website. MTEC do discs that come well recommended and do C hook (AP J Hook style) discs for £82 a pair of fronts, or £65ish for slotted. You can get hold of Bosch/Brembo/ATE blank front discs for around £80 a pair on many car part sites. These are OEM quality without paying quite the Toyota premium. Compare that to a Stoptech disc that's £120+ per disc...... The Stoptech may be better for hard track use, but I bet there's not much in it.

You pretty much have to do that with the RB kit if you want the complete look. @sagecalla the best bet is to go and look over in the US forum where loads have fitted the kit.

It's a copy of the RocketBunny kit so @adamj29 might have the answer.

I personally think the CR ones suit better than the tinted ones, a little bit of contrast works. Or these "special" editions would look good...... I've toyed with these for my Grey Red Edition FT86SF Edition: Depo Modded OEM (Cheaper than Grazio)

I don't order off there but handy for finding part numbers and then just google it. Some turn up on eBay but most are listed in the US, it's only around $12 so why not call up the local dealer? If you chuck the updated part number in Google (SU00305866) it find the updated item so there has been a revision. Amayama comes from Japan, I've bought from them before, but as above I'd see what Toyota charge.

Try looking on here: http://auto-kat.com/index.php?route=saleepc/toyota/groups&region=GEN&modification=11072 http://toyota.epc-data.com/86/ZN6/ Edit: From auto-kat: 52169B = SU00301507

It does read boost, but it's capped at 0.36 Bar (1.36 Bar MAP). Based on your other thread that would be enough to show whether the blower is giving positive pressure. I don't know whether the HKS comes with an aftermarket sensor or it's just standard to fit an Omni type sensor. Where are you based @Adamd?

Supercharged how? Is the MAP sensor the OEM one or aftermarket? Not all SC cars swap out the MAP sensor.

Nothing like a quick google: http://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/tomtop-white-reversing-camera-install_topic2800.html

The main tuners have all usually tuned a range of mods on cars so a remote tuned car would pick the one that suits yours best. Really it's the manifold that is the main thing that you want them to have worked with before. For an EcuTek tune it's just a cable and dongle required to flash the base map on the car and then you would provide them with logs to fine tune. If you have a good road to do a full throttle pull through 3rd gear you would only likely a couple of logs with minor revisions to get the map done and dusted. I would say that Abbey Motorsport and Fensport are more likely to have worked on the Borla as TD tend to do their own manifolds. This obviously isn't an issue if you make the trip to TD to get a dyno tune.

How much do you need? I have a top up bottle of the Toyota branded stuff, not sure how much is in there but I can look tomorrow and would happily do it for delivery costs if it's enough.

Probably the time to pull out this pic

Mark had the FA20Club manifold fitted to a UK car quite early on, I believe he still has it. The TD manifold came later and is incredibly similar The thing is that TD have a kit that they fit, Mark has always done the tailored mods route. Ps My car is looked after by Abbey.