Kodename47

You used to blame that on the ARBs, are you now blaming the springs? I've always said I'm happy with the springs on mine. Have yet to compare to them to "standard" Eibachs but certainly haven't been too harsh or anything on my car.

I've seen more recent pics but don't show the front end quite as well, the lights appear to be more like the FT-1, or more precisely like the Supra Concept. If you take the Concept's lines and apply them to the camouflaged one above you have a good idea. I wouldn't take the side spy shots as any indication as they reckon they have riveted panels on to cover the true lines.

That looks like a GT86 hybrid front end, grille wise. The spy shots make the front end at least a little FT-1-ish

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/diode-dynamics-always-on-module-2013-subaru-brz.html#.WpvH0-jFLIU7 Email them, far more likely to respond and know more about how they would work with these lights. Plus they're known for their good customer service too. EDIT: For simplicity could you not run 2 wires to the input to the LED? Just run a 2nd cable from the old DRL output. That way if you have a signal on either the DRL or sidelight wire the LED will come on. Either that or swap the DRL output for the sidelight one as the LED will always be on when driving anyway, the sidelight function on the front will pretty much be redundant.

Unless you sort out proper ventilation. The issue is that a decent solution for brake cooling is expensive and not easy to route.

Not had any warranty issues with mine at all. I would say that any performance car that's been serviced by a specialist is preferable over a dealer service history.

Any reason why? The only possible benefit of FTSH is for dealer trade in. In every other aspect would say that a specialist is seen as preferable. Mine has been done by Abbey since new.

Where in Kent are you? Anywhere in the west of the county then a no brainer to go to Abbey Motorsport

I actually got a suction phone mount and stuck a GoPro mount on it and mounted to the top of the rear screen. It's not perfect and not sure if every TDO would be happy with it, but it works. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mpow-Windscreen-Universal-Windshield-Dashboard-Black/dp/B016MIBFES/ref=sr_1_7/262-5561999-9333837?ie=UTF8&qid=1518884040&sr=8-7&keywords=universal+car+phone+mount&dpID=41QgSc1jRwL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I got the Olympus. It's just a shame for all the logging it does it's not usable in anything other than the Olympus app.

Most would suggest a headrest mount (I would assume) as is usually the most secure and gives you visibility of the steering wheel. What are you using HLT for? I've recently used Dashware to combine logs for video, Dashware is also owned by GoPro apparently so works direct with the device. I'm assuming the 5 has GPS so you only want ODB logging on the phone? In any case, whether via Torque, HLT or similar the quality of logging will be down to the ELM BT device, which on the cheap ones will not be particularly fast but probably good enough to make videos. HLT is worth paying for if you want it to do everything, GPS/data/video etc, but if using a GP and phone to log you can then use free laptop software to do the video part. Out of the free options I found DW to be the most user friendly. On a side note, if using the GP in mucky wet situations make sure you keep the case seal clean! We managed to kill ours snorkeling due to sand. I hear that the later models are notoriously bad in this regard, so much so I've gone to a different brand that doesn't use an external hard case.

Tink spotted this afternoon parked up in HH. Keep seeing these CS now, most common facelift colour I've seen

By default the LC is set to 4k rpm but TD may have changed it. You can adjust it, usually in 250 rpm steps, by knocking the cruise control up or down when at the limiter. I think 4k is still high, on my car it's set to 3k and even then the torque is too much. I find that FFS just doesn't feel natural so never got it it work, don't feel comfortable with my foot planted to the floor when changing gear

It's only set to activate when you turn the OEM TCS off. So you can have the OEM TSC setup and then when you turn that off you can use this or not depending on the mode you're in or EVI setup.

Just seems pointless, its that mental thing that 3 is worse than 4. You could have no mode 2 in that list and it wouldn't make any difference to the experience.

So mode 2 and 3 are essentially the same?? You can't accidentally activate FFS or LC so why bother having them in a separate map mode?

Don't forget that some cars are now out of OEM warranty period.

Tried wrapping mine, might have been cheap wrap but gave up and went for light covers in the end. Spraying has mixed results, if you're good at spraying things then go for it.

Put the OEM wheels on. Apart from that, no.

All speaker bases are made of metal magnets.....

Also Google, or the cosmetic forum on ft86club.com. Loads of examples on the American forum.

You can't take them apart, just off the car and then dry them out. I bought GasketNinja gaskets from the US which are thicker than OEM and will help. Youtube is your friend. The lights are only held on by 4 bolts. Just need a flathead screwdriver to pull of the trim clip each side in the boot and an 8mm socket for the bolts.

The Spec Ds are just cheaper/rebranded versions of the Crystaleye for the US market.

Following on from your other thread, I will re-iterate what I said. US headlights face the wrong direction. LHD lights will not work on RHD cars due to beam pattern. Most US models are not HID, most UK cars are. US spec rear lights will fit, but may need repining as the US rear light wiring is different to the rest of the world. Most US rear lights are repined for the US as they are imports, so save yourself the hassle and buy from Japan/Taiwan instead. If you want Valenti style then the best (cheap) option is thespeedline.com. The rest are possibly best imported from Japan or from a UK supplier. No pics here, but there's pictures all over Google..... literally thousands. Type your colour and the lights you like then hit enter. Halos are fine if you're happy to cut your lights open or pay someone to do it.

Although based on your OP you're still insured by a LV subsiduary. I always find it Bizarre that brokers can get better prices than the actual parent company.